IanMc Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 Great work, well done that man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 (edited) Ok bit more of an update! Finished off the o/s arch up to the new sill section, it has had one fitted before but rusted through so that will be replaced, waiting on that part. I took the 1/4 back to bare metal and covered it with hydrate 80, this acts as a great etch primer plus stops the metal getting surface rust. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. So onto the n/s, this needed the same work as the o/s but also the spare wheel well needed replacing, once that had been done i could then finsh the fitment of the back panel. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Onto the wheel well Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited January 31, 2019 by bris jas 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Absolutely outstanding work! I really wish I could have flipped mine over on a spit... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny D114BCW Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Brilliant work! this car will be great when it is done. Keep going. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Excellent work mate! If this ends up half as good as your previous efforts it'll be a stunner. Good to see you're keeping busy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 On 31/01/2019 at 16:50, bris jas said: Ok bit more of an update! Finished off the o/s arch up to the new sill section, it has had one fitted before but rusted through so that will be replaced, waiting on that part. I took the 1/4 back to bare metal and covered it with hydrate 80, this acts as a great etch primer plus stops the metal getting surface rust. I have 2 wings and a rear quarter panel that need a little work, can the hydrate 80 be primed straight over? in the past I have ended up with other brands not leaving a great finish especially if I brush the rust converter/protector on, (used Hydrate 80 on the underside and subframe of the Mrs Corsa, very pleased with it) One last question.... I was thinking of using red oxide primer but will that react with 2PK when I take the car in for it's final paint? or do I need to bite the bullet and try and get my compressor working and use a 2pk primer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 19 hours ago, TheRealExile said: I have 2 wings and a rear quarter panel that need a little work, can the hydrate 80 be primed straight over? in the past I have ended up with other brands not leaving a great finish especially if I brush the rust converter/protector on, (used Hydrate 80 on the underside and subframe of the Mrs Corsa, very pleased with it) One last question.... I was thinking of using red oxide primer but will that react with 2PK when I take the car in for it's final paint? or do I need to bite the bullet and try and get my compressor working and use a 2pk primer? I've painted over Hydrate 80 before with cellulose primer and 2k primer and raptor system, no problems either time. Its does state on the side of the container for best and lasting results use modern paint system. I've never used red oxide primer so can't advise on that. Spraying primer on rather than brushing will give easier finish to work with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealExile Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 I was thinking red oxide only as I can get it in rattle cans, compressor needs a new motor, I'll have to see if I can get a good second hand one maybe, probably as cheap as a motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Ok so on to finishing the lower rear 1/4, had to make in 3 sections. Firstly i made the top (in the picture) section, will of course be the bottom when the car is up the right way! Once this is the correct shape and welded in place, it will help making the other sections as this runs the full length. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I made the front section first, this is a little easier as the section just has a slight curve Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The rear section is harder because it curves both ways, i also managed to get a return on it where it fits inside next to the rear panel Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Next i'll be tackling the cill section, floor and the reinforcement section behind the rear of the cill which also attaches to the b pillar. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Its always best where you can to drill out the spot welds, makes it easier in the long run and doesn't cause so much damage to the adjoining panels. As the cill had been patched before and looked pretty rough all over i will replace the whole length, this way i can also treat the inner cill. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. As you can see there is quite a bit of rust (no change there!) so first i will tackle the section behind the front seat belt mount Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I started to cut back the reinforcer panel and b post section to get to clean metal, piece that attaches to the back of the cill by the jacking point, i was hoping to save some of this but it had gone worst than i thought so out it came. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I also at this point removed the section of the inner arch which had the rear seat belt bracket attached. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now all the rot is out of this section i will make up new sections to fit. The outer 1/4 panel above i will deal with once the cill is all lined up and ready to go in. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Bravo!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamie077366 Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Er, how can that be possible, I’m gonna have to go back and check it out again 😂 that fabrication is unbelievable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 (edited) Managed to spend a bit of time in the garage this week, as mentioned above i will concentrate on the rear inner section of the cill, their are 3 parts to this. I had to repair the lower inner arch section where the seatbelt anchor sits first and the floorProject images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Once i was happy with that i moved on to the piece that attaches to the cill and also the rear jacking point, this had to be made from thicker metal as it could be supporting the car.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I just had to cut out another section of rust first Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Then plate it up Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. That piece fitted in a treat, so next was making the section that is part of the inner 1/4 panel and also the cill attaches to it as well. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Once that was welded in i then repaired the section which attaches to it which is the base of the b post. Bit fiddly this section but best to take your time and also check the cill fits and lines up where it should. I then moved along the cill/ floor and had to fabricate a couple more plates before i got to the jacking point! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Once i finish a section i like to coat it in Hydrate 80 for protection. Onto the jacking point Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. To be honest the jacking point and floor around it had rotted but the chassis is very good, there was a small piece of corrosion on the outer skin that i removed and treated the inner but that was just a bit of surface rust. I have closely checked over the rest of the chassis leg and to my amazement its perfect with no signs of any rust issues any where, kinda feels like i'm cheating if i don't replace it! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited February 8, 2019 by bris jas 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 Fantastic work again Jason, well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 as usual, methodical quality repair work Jason. keep at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Great fabrication, loads done, do you weld both sides of your repairs, like these two patches, outside and inside? When you put your sill on do you treat hidden steel, and what with? Winner on the chassis legs, you can drill down onto them from inside the car and plug the holes, for future treatment. Will you remove all paint including hard to remove grey primer? Sorry for the questions, at the same stage myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 11 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Great fabrication, loads done, do you weld both sides of your repairs, like these two patches, outside and inside? When you put your sill on do you treat hidden steel, and what with? Winner on the chassis legs, you can drill down onto them from inside the car and plug the holes, for future treatment. Will you remove all paint including hard to remove grey primer? Sorry for the questions, at the same stage myself Thanks. I weld completely around the plate on one side and on the other depending if its structure or not i will weld again all the way around and over lap the metal by about 10mm, if not structual i tack the other side 20mm apart so as not to get any raised areas. I always treat unseen metal if not already coated, i use Hydrate 80. Thanks for the heads up on the chassis legs, hopefully once treated they shoudn't need looking at again🤞 Yes i always remove all the body paint as you never know what is hiding underneath, this one has very bad micro blistering. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Can you photograph the hydrate 80 being used? What i meant was do ypu reove all primer, down to bare metal, everywhere. Its not primer actually, its rust treatment by opel, the static plunge bath. If you ask me, opel could have plunged them a few times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 3 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Can you photograph the hydrate 80 being used? What i meant was do ypu reove all primer, down to bare metal, everywhere. Its not primer actually, its rust treatment by opel, the static plunge bath. If you ask me, opel could have plunged them a few times Yes all primer, if that was rust treatment hopefully the person that help make it can see it didn't work. There are many places on the car that just have a dusting of top coat and no primer at all. The hydrate 80 is just brushed on, gives a blue ish colour but goes much darker when dry and etches very strong to the metal. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny D114BCW Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Fantastic work! really great to see the workmanship going into this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Thanks for the comments guys. So on to the n/s jacking/chassis/A post/floor The rotted section was removed as above, first was to make and weld in the new piece of outer chassis Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Once all secured i then made up a section of floor and welded it in a long with the jacking point Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The front section of floor is quite a tricky piece to make, i had to bend the inner section but to get the curve just right i had to cut a couple of slits, so allowing the metal to bend around and down around the curve. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Next it was onto the inner wing in front of the a post, i had to make up a section here. Last time i bought a section from Retropower which was spot on but because i only needed half of it i thought i'd make it up myself this time. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And welded in place Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Next it was onto the front of the A post, just the front edge had rot so that came out and i made up section to weld in Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. To get the base of the piller correct i thought it would be best to weld in the new cill first, completely forgot to take any pic's of this going in but you can see its in place now Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I made the front section of the lower pillar first, as you can see there is a hole which i welded a speed clip to the other side to take the wing fixing. Again didn't take another picture of this until it was all finished and coated with hydrate 80 as is the cill etc. Now the cill was fitted i could carry on with finishing off the inner and outer arch where it attaches to the rear of the cill, also remembering to weld through to pick up the inner cill section i installed earlier. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The n/s side is all finished now and coated in hydrate 80 (metal wise). next will be the o/s and small repair to the front panel, then all the metal work will be done! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Jason, this is superb work! Its a pleasure to read/watch this project thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H-400 Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Great work, respect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 Ok so haven't updated this for a couple of months, i have been busy on the o/s. Pretty much the same needed doing as the n/s more or less- This side had an outer over cill fitted, great for an mot pass but bad for corrosion later on as where the cill was welded on, especially the floor it had caused more corrosion. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The chassis leg had gone a bit crusty aswell Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Firstly i removed the jacking point and floor section a long with the outer skin of the chassis rail Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The plan was to make all good in front of the middle cross member, this will stop any chance of things moving if i was to chop out the floor further back. The inner strengthening section of the leg was in great shape which surprised me, i gave it a good check around and coated it in Hydrate 80 before welding the outer section on i had made. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I then replaced the floor section a long with a new jacking point Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The section in front of the jacking point like the other side is tricky to get right, but came out a treat. The section in front of the A pillar wasn't as bad as the other side but still needed a small amount of repair as did the inner arch by where the accelarator pedal attaches. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I managed to remove the small angled bracket you can see above and reuse Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. One small plate was needed on the A pillar also. Onto the rear floor/inner cill section next! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Wonderful work Jason, great respect to you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bris jas Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Thanks for the kind words Ian. Ok so onto the rear of the o/s, this is what i started with- Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. All the inner sections behind the outer cill are badly rusted as well, also as you can see the rear seat belt mount area is badly rusted Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. First job is to remove all the rusted areas back to a point where it is best to fabricate new sections Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Firstly i made a plate to repair the seat belt point, i made this 10mm bigger so i could weld it both sides, one side it usually enough but just for piece of mind. I then reattached the threaded section. Also welded in a small piece to the inner cill corner. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. All most forgot to mention the floor area behind the centre cross member, didn't take a picture of it before but here is the plate i made up held in place with clamps. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I left it like this over night, mainly because i ran out of time but to also help relieve some of the tension on the fabricated section, if you look at your cars or take a close look at this picture you will see the different curves and angles of this section, i wanted to make in one piece for strength, following day i welded it in and well happy with the result Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. So back to the rear section, first i made the inner cill that attaches to the floor and jacking point, once welded in i then set about the section that continues down from the inner 1/4 panel Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.. Click to choose filesProject images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Once all in i then finished off by making up the section of the bottom of the b post, which carries down and attaches to the middle section above (section with the holes in) Treated with hydrate 80 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. All ready now for the new outer cill to be fitted.... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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