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IanMc

Polar White and Rust - a restoration epic, can it even be done?

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Cheers evo, much appreciated. I will consider that over the next few days.

I guess I could consider that a sympathetic upgrade?

This evening I begun cutting out the rot in the rear screen surround area. I got about 2/3 rds of the way through the job, so will probably finish that off tomorrow.

I have to keep telling myself it has to get worse, before it can get better lol

 

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By the way, some small sections have been left for now to help with angles and general shape etc, then once other pieces are in I will chop them out as well.

Have a nice evening everyone.

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Ian, i'm sure you have learnt this already but heads up just incase.

With the roof plates just tack them in let the metal cool and tack again, you must be so carefull with those plates as to much heat there and you could end up distorting a large part of the roof, if that happens it can be a nightmare to put right.

 

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21 minutes ago, bris jas said:

Ian, i'm sure you have learnt this already but heads up just incase.

With the roof plates just tack them in let the metal cool and tack again, you must be so carefull with those plates as to much heat there and you could end up distorting a large part of the roof, if that happens it can be a nightmare to put right.

 

I hadn’t realised that was so critical with the roof, so sincere thanks for posting that - all help and comments appreciated!

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Someone’s been busy boy my pics helped

peter

Edited by peter evans

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6 minutes ago, peter evans said:

Someone’s been busy hop my pics helped

peter

Oh yes, thanks again Peter !

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Having pondered on it after the last coup,e of days, I have reached a decision on the location of the aerial - I am going to stick with the OSR quarter position.

Sorry evo lol, I just couldn't bring myself to stray so far from the original path - it must be old age.

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Ahh, i tried! :rolleyes: :D Roof ariels rock, where are you gonna put your foxtail. 

Oh, you can cool a panel with constant compressor air, just dont blow your gas away! You can cool it with water, hose or spray bottle, maybe not your roof skin, 

The weather is on your side too, your aim it to not add too much heat at any one time, 1/2 inch at a time, cool it. 

Seen a guy welding a door skin in an old bath, each inch it was dipped, wiped, air blown, welded, dipped, wiped, air blown, welded....... pros! 

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Hi ian .you are seeing the end of the tunnel now and what a journey it’s been!. 

Im with you regards the aerial .my sporthatch has a roof aerial .fitted from new and thou it suits it and I’m used to it I would have much rather had a pull up wing top aerial. They make the car look older and better in my opinion but unless I ever have to have the roof painted it will have to stay there.

similar sort of story with my viva.years ago when I got it there was no exterior mirror at all except a clip on door frame type.i found a pair of original door mirrors off a gls and fitted them. My mate had a Firenza with wingtop mirrors and they look so much better and I wished I had done that but now I had nice new holes in my doors so they had to stay !.

its strange realy,some people like to make their car look newer than it is but I prefer to make it look older.(within reason !)

you saw the pics of my other cav.when I built it I was originally going to go for a more modern green like krypton but my brother convinced me it wouldn’t suit it and I settled on cedar.an early 70’s colour which looks good to me .

anyway  happy tinkering mate 

 

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54 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Ahh, i tried! :rolleyes: :D Roof ariels rock, where are you gonna put your foxtail. 

Oh, you can cool a panel with constant compressor air, just dont blow your gas away! You can cool it with water, hose or spray bottle, maybe not your roof skin, 

The weather is on your side too, your aim it to not add too much heat at any one time, 1/2 inch at a time, cool it. 

Seen a guy welding a door skin in an old bath, each inch it was dipped, wiped, air blown, welded, dipped, wiped, air blown, welded....... pros! 

Wow, some very interesting tips and insights there! I always marvel at the techniques that some people come up with, very clever indeed.

18 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

Hi ian .you are seeing the end of the tunnel now and what a journey it’s been!. 

Im with you regards the aerial .my sporthatch has a roof aerial .fitted from new and thou it suits it and I’m used to it I would have much rather had a pull up wing top aerial. They make the car look older and better in my opinion but unless I ever have to have the roof painted it will have to stay there.

similar sort of story with my viva.years ago when I got it there was no exterior mirror at all except a clip on door frame type.i found a pair of original door mirrors off a gls and fitted them. My mate had a Firenza with wingtop mirrors and they look so much better and I wished I had done that but now I had nice new holes in my doors so they had to stay !.

its strange realy,some people like to make their car look newer than it is but I prefer to make it look older.(within reason !)

you saw the pics of my other cav.when I built it I was originally going to go for a more modern green like krypton but my brother convinced me it wouldn’t suit it and I settled on cedar.an early 70’s colour which looks good to me .

anyway  happy tinkering mate 

 

Thanks for your input there Chris. Your Cavalier is a beautiful car and a real credit to all your hard work.

The more I think about the aerial, the more I know it’s the right decision.

Have a great weekend everyone.

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A very productive day today. My rear screen surround is now solid again.

This is how things unfolded:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Admittedly there are one or two areas that have 'dropped' a little, so those will require some body filler, but I can certainly live with that. All things considered, I'm pretty pleased with how it all turned out. Frustratingly, my last flap disc burned out before I had a chance to fully dress all of the welds, but I can get that sorted out tomorrow with a quick trip to Screwfix.

Have a good evening all.

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Knowing that all of the large areas had now been done, this morning I decided to take a really close look at the Cavs bodywork to see if anything else needs welding.

I only came up with two areas:

- there are three very small holes areas of the bonnet (front near side corner), that would probably benefit from welding. They are so small, that it might even be possible to close them just by filling them with MIG wire (no plate). I don’t understand how this area even came to be holed in the first place - perhaps the car cover it came with held moisture in this area?

- the small (1/2” wide ?) return lip on the underside of the front headlamp panel is rotten along about half its length. I suspect that has been caused by the holes for the retaining screws just rusting out and never being caught early enough.

So as evo said a couple of months ago, there is always more rust to deal with, but we are now incredibly close to having all of the metalwork also complete. When these small bits are done (evenings this coming week), we can start on body and paint - the last section!

 

Edited by IanMc
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An early start today as we have visitors this afternoon, but still got quite a bit done.

1) Sorted out the upper arm spacers on the NS corner, so now both sides are correct to specifications.

2) Got the replacement NS door fitted after staring at it for months with the car unable to move - seems to sit quite nicely.

 

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3) Got the first few little skims of body filler - this seems like a massive step forward to be even thinking about this kind of work.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

 

4) The one fly in the ointment (there is always a fly isn't there?!) came when me and my Son tried to bleed the brakes. The OSR rigid pipe decided it didn't want to seal any more... I strongly suspect the flare is the problem here, so will sort that out one evening in the week.

Have a good afternoon.

 

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Cracking on quick.

looks like you could do with cranking the amps up on the welder and a touch more gas, looks very spatters and sooty. 

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Love this topic, what determination and motivation can do.

@Paul: Got the feeling he doesn't use any gas at all, or indeed too less

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Cheers guys.

Yes you are correct Herman I use flux cored, gasless wire. I just got fed up with running out of gas every couple of days. I know I could get a bigger bottle, but: a)  have nowhere to store it and b) I wouldn't have a clue where to get it filled. Therefore I have to live with the consequences...

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Ian, coming along well and like you mention always nice to get onto the next stage (filler work). I think your welder not looking as it gets that hot probably helped with the roof plates as the heat can cause the distortion.

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17 minutes ago, bris jas said:

Ian, coming along well and like you mention always nice to get onto the next stage (filler work). I think your welder not looking as it gets that hot probably helped with the roof plates as the heat can cause the distortion.

Yes, it think you are probably right Jason - perhaps there is a God after all   :rolleyes:  :D

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Hi Ian, I rent a bottle. When it's empty I just swap it at a local firm.

I started mig-welding a few months ago after a lot of years, and noticed that the mixed argon/co2 bottles are a lot easyer 

to weld then in the old days with co2. Did a job on a swan-neck, will post some pics in another topic.

Grts,Herman

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Ian if it helps, a pre 78 2p coin, real copper, or a piece of copper pipe flattened, and placed behind panel allows you to weld your bonnet, small fill places! Stops it burning through, and copper wont weld, it may stick, allow to , break off, i use this method when filling spot weld removal holes, strip of copper clamped across .

Your winning, three more holes, sure its not six! Lol

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40 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Ian if it helps, a pre 78 2p coin, real copper, or a piece of copper pipe flattened, and placed behind panel allows you to weld your bonnet, small fill places! Stops it burning through, and copper wont weld, it may stick, allow to , break off, i use this method when filling spot weld removal holes, strip of copper clamped across .

Your winning, three more holes, sure its not six! Lol

Nice one, thanks evo

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Pottered about for an hour this evening doing some odds and sods type jobs.

For example, I refitted the drivers door glass, bolted the seatbelts back in and then got the outer door caps/seals ready for refitting after paint.

I need your help with the aforementioned door glass though, I have about a 10 mm gap all down the rear edge - any ideas? By the way, it is definitely Coupe glass as it came out of the original Cav door...

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1 hour ago, IanMc said:

 

I need your help with the aforementioned door glass though, I have about a 10 mm gap all down the rear edge - any ideas?

Scratch that, all sorted now. It turns out that the top back edge of the glass was simply catching on the top seal. After adjusting the rear travel stop a little, all is now well.

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