IanMc Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, robah said: Not sure if you are aware that you can buy weld through primers to help protect the metal especially the inside parts you can't get to especially after welding up. It does cause a little more splatter when welding and like all primers will attract a little moisture. I think without looking they contain Zinc (sacrificial material) or something similar. We all have to start somewhere and you have catalogued yours I have not got past the practise side without chickening out, even though I have qualifications in welding (30+ years ago) but mainly in Arc and Gas welding, and a lot thicker material. My car ended up with an experience welder as every time I welded a repair a bigger hole appeared next to it, and I set myself on fire a few times . My welder has been under my bench now for 10 years but will have to start using it soon, as I have a few projects that I wish to start. No best way to say this as the written word can be misread but you have given me positive vibes in me starting to weld again (in a positive manner if that helps to explain myself). Keep up the great work. Crikey, I have never motivated anyone before God luck when you start! ps Yes I do have some weld through primer, used it briefly yesterday. 4 hours ago, Snowy said: Can I ask why are you putting in parts that have been restored that may get in the way of your cutting and welding You certainly can ask - good question! I have checked and double checked this - (fingers crossed) nothing that has gone back on the car so far will be in the way of any cutting or welding. The boot is currently full of parts that have already been refurbed and await refit after the cutting, welding and general bodywork are complete. Anything that is still on there i.e tail lights are a few minutes to remove and safer on the car than stored somewhere where I (Mr Clumsy) can damage them. Edited May 6, 2018 by IanMc 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 (edited) Right, final update for today - basically as I am getting some heat from the Boss Decided to strip down the front bumper as the mounting brackets were rusty as hell and the lower edge had some ripples in it. While I was there I removed the rubber trim and associated clips - luckily all but one survived: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I have used the 'adjustable spanner bodge' before on other problems and thought I would try it again. Seems like it has done a reasonable job again this time: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. After that I decided to treat the rust inside by giving it a coat of Black Hammerite. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Then as the Boss had gone into town to buy some rolls for lunch i decided to break out the angle grinder to remove the underseal and paint etc from the NS footwell and bulkhead area. Following memebers recommendation I had ordered a knotted wire wheel for the grinder and it really takes no prisoners! After finding more solid metal further across than I had imagined, I decided to start chopping out the crud with a cutting disc. Mmm, thats a big hole! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Some more cutting to do obviously, then I can think about making some cardboard templates. If the paint dries quickly I might break out the Autosol and polish up the front chrome on the bumper as a little fill in job, I'm sure she wont notice. Byeee! Edited May 6, 2018 by IanMc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 (edited) I did manage to get in a sneaky 10 minutes with the Autosol on the front bumper. Its come up fairly well for the first pass, but I think it will need at least one or two more to call it officially 'saved'. Oops! - just noticed the finger over the lens - sorry! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited May 6, 2018 by IanMc 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 My Daughter was bored this afternoon, so this was my chance to get out in the garage again lol I had her painting all of the following parts while I sanded them in preparation: - Front bumper mounting brackets (short and long). - Seat mounting plates and associated bolts. - The handbrake lever while the center console is out (sorry forgot to take a photo of that) How the bumper brackets looks before we started: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And all the bits and bobs after she had finished: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. We also took the opportunity to bolt down my shiny new metal bender, which I also forgot to take a photo of - Doh! Have a nice evening everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monaco Blue Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 4 hours ago, IanMc said: I did manage to get in a sneaky 10 minutes with the Autosol on the front bumper. Its come up fairly well for the first pass, but I think it will need at least one or two more to call it officially 'saved'. Oops! - just noticed the finger over the lens - sorry! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. You certainly transformed that bumper! Looks good! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Managed to remove the (non-standard) OSF wing trim retaining clips - thanks again KAA for the pointer. Then painted the torque tube with a second coat, the first was very patchy and I had actually missed one place - Doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 Tonight I drilled out some spot welds. This is the first time I have ever done that job in 35 years of tinkering with cars! I have to say that it was hugely satisfying to drill 5 or 6 out and then just peel away the rotten section of floor in the NS footwell. This gave me access to view the jacking point from above for the first time. Unexpectedly it was surprising solid, despite what looked like masses of rust present. I pushed really hard all over it with a large screwdriver and only managed to go through in one small area - that was a real bonus. Tomorrow night I will try remove another floor section to get a look at the chassis rail. That means drilling out some more spot welds, cant wait - fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 Scratch what I said above about the jacking point being in solid condition.. More aggressive prodding this morning has revealed three more small holes about 6-8 mm diameter. On that basis its getting chopped out, the area is too critical to try to patch up. I have already sourced some hollow section that I will use to create a new jacking point and graft it to the chassis longitudinal rail. I have ordered enough hollow section to allow me to do all four jacking points if required, but as a minimum both the fronts will match each other. Photos to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 What I found this morning after some more prodding and work with the knotted wire wheel... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. This is what I shall be using to fabricate my new jacking points: 50 x 50 x 3 mm hollow section. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I am going to seal the ends with plastic bungs, which means that i will be able to easily inspect for any problems and treat accordingly. The flat surface will also make it easy to lift the car with any trolley, scissor or bottle jack, which in my view will make them more practical than the existing/original jacking points. Have a good evening everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 Just in case https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/opel-manta-ascona-mk1-vauxhall-cavalier-left-nearside-front-jacking-point-panel/281822774028?hash=item419df2430c They are really strong, and you may be long gone before these ever show and trouble again,! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 4 minutes ago, ®evo03 said: Just in case https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/opel-manta-ascona-mk1-vauxhall-cavalier-left-nearside-front-jacking-point-panel/281822774028?hash=item419df2430c They are really strong, and you may be long gone before these ever show and trouble again,! Yeah, thanks evo - I have been aware of these for a while. Seeing what’s happened to the ones on the car, just makes me want to rip them off and stick some thicker Steel in there though. I’m going to give the hollow section a go and see how that goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 After some more cleaning away of underseal and a good go with the knotted wire wheel this morning, this is what I am facing - this about to get interesting Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Progress will be very slow for the next week or so as tomorrow I am off to Germany for a week long exhibition. I am viewing this time away as an ideal opportunity to plan my next few moves with this project. I find that sometimes a few days away from the coal face allows you to see more clearly. Have a good weekend everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 Some more investigation and cutting this afternoon, I keep telling myself it has to get worse, before it can get better... Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. By the way, that liquid in the second photo is penetrating fluid. I put some of that on thinking that the cross member brace bolt just went through the chassis rail - then I realised that it must be inside a strengthening tube - can somebody please confirm that is correct? I did try to shift that bolt earlier, but I couldn't budge it. I have therefore left it to soak while I am in Germany. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 You are correct, the trailing arms are bolted through the bottom of the swan necks and there is a crush tube inside of which the bolt fits through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 27 minutes ago, Mike. said: You are correct, the trailing arms are bolted through the bottom of the swan necks and there is a crush tube inside of which the bolt fits through. Thanks Mike, that very helpful. Is there any chance that the bolt could have completely rusted in the tube, or is there sufficient clearance to make this unlikely? Just trying to gather enough info to contemplate the possible scenarios while I am away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 (edited) When I was at this stage I had a friend give me a help, I was holding a big punch bar and my friend was wielding a big lump hammer and we couldn’t budge the bolt from the trailing arms bushes and the crush pipe, totally rusted together, I ended up using a 1mm cutting disk and cut through the bolt, after removing the complete swan neck and rail I was able to salvage the small crush pipe and removed the cut bolt with a bit of heat, a punch and a vice. This was then spot welded back into place with the new swan necks. That’s what the spot weld is in the middle. It’s a small tube with a flat tab on one side. I will delete my photos in a while to save on my storage space, photos can speak a thousand words. Edited May 14, 2018 by Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 Perfect Mike, sincere thanks for your help and advice ps I am going to save your photo, so feel free to delete away lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 Kerosene in a household spray bottle, for a few weeks, bingo! Weetabix helps! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 1 hour ago, ®evo03 said: Kerosene in a household spray bottle, for a few weeks, bingo! Weetabix helps! A few weeks evo?! - I want that little devil out next weekend one way or another lol I can feel a new cutting disc coming out of the cupboard... Thanks for the heads up on the Kerosene though. Thinking about it, I have no idea where I can even buy that around here now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike. Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 (edited) Hi IanMc, i have found a picture of the crush pipe when I got it out of the rusty rails, new bush installed into trailing arm, but remember I was able to go cutting with the grinder as I had a complete new rubber bush set to replace all the old ones with, that was my plan anyway as my bushes were shot, so damaging the existing bushes was not a worry for me, Revo03’s method would preserve the bush intact for future use.The trailing arm will be really tight against the rail and the 1mm disk will cut into the side of the rubber bush as you are trying to get to the bolt. More to consider Edited May 14, 2018 by Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 (edited) Thanks again Mike, much appreciated. I have been thinking about this and I think that if the bolt won’t come out, I might just cut down either end of the crush tube. This should all the bolt head and nut to fall away. I could then then either make up a new crush tube or shim it out again using larger diameter washers where I have cut. I think that would work. As long as the crush tube went in before the floor I can temporarily put the bolt through to line everything up, then tack weld it on place. Edited May 12, 2018 by IanMc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 In my experiance they can (and do) rust solid into either the chassis or the arm bush itself.this can be confirmed by the bolt head being totally solid or tuning and springing back with a rubbery feel.if your area is so badly rotten that it has gone through the outer chassis,inner strengthener and tube then cutting it out may well be the solution. if it has only seized into the bush then repated applications of wd plus tapping the bolt lenghthways and turning may well free it or else chop the bolt head off !. maybee ive been lucky over the years but ive never had one thats not been removeable from the chassis but have had several that have been unremoveable from the bush sleeve.i think the chassis hole has a bit more clearance . good luck mate and welcome to cav/ manta ownership common problems ! . once you replace the bolt,new or otherwise or other suspension bolts make sure they are well greased up for future removal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 Nice one, cheers Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanMc Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 Back from a good week in Germany, so back on with the Cavalier. Today was very much one step forward, two steps back. The step forward: I cut the head off the cross member brace to chassis rail bolt and managed to drift it out without too much effort with a club hammer and suitably sized bolt: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Now the steps a back... 1) For the life of me I cant shift the rest of the bolt yet from the brace/arm. It rotates, but wont move along its length - yet! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. All suggestions very welcome! 2) While trying to push out this bolt using my vice, a socket and another bolt, I have wrecked my bench vice - gutted! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Oh well, so before I can do too much more I have to get another vice first 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Obviously with not seeing the pictures it’s hard to comment but I take it you now have the crossmember brace arm off the car but with the bolt still stuck in it?. A common scenario and always a problem but a darn sign better than it being stuck in the car chassis. you said the bolt is turning (not the metal sleeve in the bush?) so its obviously not seized into the sleeve so with lots of wd and twisting /pulling it should eventually come out. Make sure there is no lip on the end or any excess rust elsewhere on the bolt because I think it’s a smaller clearance in the bush than it is in the chassis. After reading your thread we all know you will get it out one way or another and other people, myself included also enjoy the challenge of things that don’t go to plan or need something making to do a particular job.all the fun of owning and working on a classic ! all the best 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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