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IanMc

Polar White and Rust - a restoration epic, can it even be done?

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Some good progress today, both at work and home.

My mate Tim managed to hold the font disc to hub assemblies in our 4-jaw chuck on the lathe today and skimmed both for me. The Haynes manual said max permissable runout was 0.009" - he got it within 0.006"max, so good job Tim!

Even at that stage they looked so much better:

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When I got home I managed to remove the front and rear wheel bearing shells from each with absolutely no problems at all - result.

Then I treated the exposed, rusty surfaces to a light sand and then a coat of high temperature brush on Silver paint. I already had this standing by for the exhaust manifold, so it was an obvious choice.

Hopefully you will agree that they look quite presentable now, plus they should allow the car to roll better and more importantly, stop better too. Obviously I still ned to just tidy up the edges a little, but that over-paint will come off easily with a Stanley knife a bit late this evening.

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I have a used set of brake disc backing plates on the way to me. Once they arrive they will also be wire brushed and painted Silver. Then I can fit up the new bearings you can see in one of the photos and then hopefully get both front corners buttoned up again.

Have a nice evening all.

 

 

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Great thread, fare play, might try this myself! Worth a save, got new disks at 15 years of standing, doing the reverse of you, saving car body first, then a lifetime of mechanical restoration, including manifold and disks! 

Great lesson, in how to sabe stuff rather than replace and renew,  Any ideas on saving mastercylinders, and brake drums, 

Old school mechanical saving has almost died, its more hassle to get a clutch relined, or shoes lined, maybe i should try it, alot of hassle, but would it be cost effective?

Keep up the great work and thread! 

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12 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Great thread, fare play, might try this myself! Worth a save, got new disks at 15 years of standing, doing the reverse of you, saving car body first, then a lifetime of mechanical restoration, including manifold and disks! 

Great lesson, in how to sabe stuff rather than replace and renew,  Any ideas on saving mastercylinders, and brake drums, 

Old school mechanical saving has almost died, its more hassle to get a clutch relined, or shoes lined, maybe i should try it, alot of hassle, but would it be cost effective?

Keep up the great work and thread! 

Hi mate, many thanks for the kind words - much appreciated.

As an Engineer, my first instinct is always to try to save and make serviceable again. It probably all goes back to my teenage years, where my only option was to try to fix things myself. In other words I learned the hard way, due to lack of money.

Your rear drums can certainly be skimmed out if there is any obvious sign of scoring or wear lips - this will literally take minutes for any good machinist.

Relinjng brake shoes is only really economic if replacement sets are no longer available. It’s obviously doable, but even I wouldn’t bother with that job.

Good luck!

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Posted (edited)

Progress has been a bit slow this week due to other bits and pieces to do around the house, but up early this morning and made some progress.

With the newly paint manifolds all dry I refitted (the also painted) warm air take off tin for the air filter housing. Then made sure that the block and manifold faces were nice and clean before using a new gasket and bolting the manifolds back on.

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

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Unfortunately it looks like I must have knocked the round tip of the coolant temperature sensor off while removing the manifolds from the engine bay, so had to order a new one of those - oh well, thats me, Mr Clumsy lol

Next got the vacuum connections and coolant hose all laid out and back on again.

Refitted the carb and associated linkages etc.

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Just waiting for the new coolant sensor to arrive, then I can button up the top of drivers side of the engine bay. Then it will be back off underneath to see what needs rectification and/or undersealing before the used downpipe and new center and tail pipe boxes can be fitted.

This is all being done while I am waiting for my used brake backing discs to arrive, then the discs with new bearings can go back on and the car will be mobile again.

Small steps again, but at this time they are all forward... fingers crossed that continues. :D  :thumbup

Edited by IanMc
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Posted (edited)

Unless I'm mistaken you've plugged the pipe for the vacuum unit onto the wrong outlet.

That's for the dissy. It should plug into one just to the left of where it is.

I will take a picture of mine.

Edited by Snowy

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29 minutes ago, Snowy said:

Unless I'm mistaken you've plugged the pipe for the vacuum unit onto the wrong outlet.

That's for the dissy. It should plug into one just to the left of where it is.

I will take a picture of mine.

Thanks Snowy, top man.

When I got the car nothing here was connected, so I was simply using a process of elimination.

All help greatly appreciated!

Small time filling update from earlier.

Managed to remove the front bumper with ease. I put some penetrating fluid on all six bolts this morning and they all came out like they had been screwed in yesterday...

I like the easy wins!

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Posted (edited)

The used / second hand front disc backing plates showed up today (thanks again Carl).

They are in good condition generally and so I decided to treat them to a coat of Silver high temperature paint to add some protection. I thought I would go Silver as pretty much everything else under the wheel arches is Black.

I will probably treat them to a second coat either later tonight or first thing in the morning before I go to work.

 

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Will let them dry for 24 hours, then hopefully tomorrow and Wednesday evening I can get both sides all back together again.

Have a good evening all   :thumbup

 

Edited by IanMc
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Ian, don't take this the wrong way, You are doing a great job here, and the photos and commentary are very good, but why didn't you clean that carb before refitting it to the manifold, it would look far more professional with a nice clean carb, and being aluminium it is not all that difficult to polish up, also the brake back plates could have been sanded down before painting.  You are quite in order if you tell me to keep my nose out!!!!  Snowy was quick to notice that vacuum pipe, I didn't see that!

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1 hour ago, Julian said:

Ian, don't take this the wrong way, You are doing a great job here, and the photos and commentary are very good, but why didn't you clean that carb before refitting it to the manifold, it would look far more professional with a nice clean carb, and being aluminium it is not all that difficult to polish up, also the brake back plates could have been sanded down before painting.  You are quite in order if you tell me to keep my nose out!!!!  Snowy was quick to notice that vacuum pipe, I didn't see that!

Hi Julian,

Absolutely no offence taken Sir, my skin is much thicker than that after 25 years of marriage lol.

Believe it or not the carb was cleaned weeks ago - you should have sen it before lol, but I do take your point. To be honest polishing Aluminium is not something I have done before, so if you can give me some more help and advise here I would certainly be will to do that.

The brake back plates are no more than guards to me and although they are solid there was a certain amount of heavy pitting present. I was also concerned that if I got too 'heavy' with them I might break through, leaving me back at square one. As I say I take your point though.

Thanks as always for your input.

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Small update tonight for the work done between Dinner and the start of the football  :D

Got the NS brake disc baking plate, the disc and hub assembly and the caliper fitted up again. This included new inner and outer wheel bearings.

Set the torque and clearance as per the manual and everything rotates beautifully - much different to before!

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Just need to give the discs a quick spray with brake cleaner to get rid of the finger prints and the wheel can go back on.

Tomorrow night = the OS.

Have a good evening everyone.

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Great stuff, looks really well, clean and tidy and i bet everything will work as it should, as for the craftmanship, fair play, and an excellent build and thread, im learning alot and have and always had probably have more respect for someone trying it themselves, trying their hardest and learning as they go, over a cheque book car, everything better than new and afraid to use it as it just might rain, get dirty, etc etc. But i do understand what julian is saying, i also am looking forward to a lesson on carb body polishing! I may even do it also, i hear a dishwasher is a good first start? 

Always had a use for a car, and planned what way it should be and what it will be used for, before even buying it, my guess is, you will use it, enjoy it, and have some cracking good times with it, along with a little tinkering along the way, :thumbupB):D

Look at it this way, that front suspension will last for years as it is, protecting it like that, giving it a new lifespan, maybe when car is finished, you could drop the whole subframe, over a winter, sand it, 2 pack it, wet and dry it, buff it and show us all what a first class job really is.

Any good pointers on top and bottom ball joints, quality and supplier and price? 

 

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6 hours ago, ®evo03 said:

Always had a use for a car, and planned what way it should be and what it will be used for, before even buying it, my guess is, you will use it, enjoy it, and have some cracking good times with it, along with a little tinkering along the way, :thumbupB):D

Exactly right Sir!

 

 

6 hours ago, ®evo03 said:

Any good pointers on top and bottom ball joints, quality and supplier and price? 

 

I always go for a name that I recognise from the old days, say Delphi or QH for example - buts thats just me.

Having said that, I am sure that any brand from one of the large motor factors would be just fine.

 

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Reference aluminium & external carb cleaning when had the 1.8 Manta late last year it was in a 20 year old "barn find" state when bought & by using a mixture of soft rotary wire wheels & metal polish on the aluminium i got it from this state 

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To eventually this state, it was hard work but very satisfying in the end.

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58 minutes ago, Snowy said:

Just out of curiosity did you check that the vacuum unit on the carb is functioning?

Do you have a vacuum tester to check it?

Hi Snowy,

The vacuum unit on the carb or the one on the dizzy? The one on the dizzy works just fine, I simply sucked on the pipe and the plates/weights moved nicely.

As it happens I have a vacuum brake bleeding kit - could I use that?

2 hours ago, Rapierdave said:

Reference aluminium & external carb cleaning when had the 1.8 Manta late last year it was in a 20 year old "barn find" state when bought & by using a mixture of soft rotary wire wheels & metal polish on the aluminium i got it from this state 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

To eventually this state, it was hard work but very satisfying in the end.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Superb - cheers for that Dave.

I will add that job to the end of the list then. That list is currently longer than the Magna Carta lol

Thanks again  :thumbup

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38 minutes ago, IanMc said:

Hi Snowy,

The vacuum unit on the carb or the one on the dizzy? The one on the dizzy works just fine, I simply sucked on the pipe and the plates/weights moved nicely.

As it happens I have a vacuum brake bleeding kit - could I use that?

Both really. Also just sucking on the pipe isn't really a good enough test. As if there is a small split in the diaphragm you'll still move the actuator but it won't be working efficiently. 

Using your vacuum bleeding kit you'll be able to apply a vacuum and see if there are any leaks.

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4 hours ago, Snowy said:

Both really. Also just sucking on the pipe isn't really a good enough test. As if there is a small split in the diaphragm you'll still move the actuator but it won't be working efficiently. 

Using your vacuum bleeding kit you'll be able to apply a vacuum and see if there are any leaks.

Thanks Snowy, I will try that at the weekend.

On a similar topic, did you manage to get a photo of your carburetor vacuum connections so that I can compare to my guesses? :lol: 

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Posted (edited)

Small update tonight.

Two jobs completed:

1) I replaced the ring terminal on the end of the brake master cylinder - something else Mr Clumsy must have damaged when I removed the manifolds... I convinced myself that I had a stash of M8 Stainless bolts, one of which I was going to use - do you think I could find them?! Anyway, when they turn up I will swap that rusty thing out.

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2) Got the OS hub and disc assembly fitted. Just like the other side, fresh bearings, grease etc was used and the caliper refitted. So that officially concludes the work on the front suspension and braking system. :D  :thumbup

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As with the other side, I will give the disc a good clean down with some brake cleaner before the wheel goes back on.

Onwards!

 

Edited by IanMc

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Posted (edited)

I cant view any pictures but the vac pipe from the distributor goes on the side of the carb pointing straight out towards the wing and the little vac pipe from the carb choke pull off diagragm goes to the stub at the bottom of the carb,angled on some models.The other little stub on the manifold under the carb is for the rocker cover thin front breather. This will usually be blocked up and is only very small anyway so be carefull not to open it up if cleaning it with a sharp object such as a twist drill. There are some pictures on google images if needs be !

Edited by cam.in.head
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Cheers Chris, much appreciated 

:thumbup

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No worries mate. If you get the pic from snowy to compare thats fine.

if not feel free to email me a pic of yours to look at. 

The carb choke vac unit frequently have leaking diagragms so dont be surprised if it does. They used a similar unit on lots of vauxhall / opels of the era and although some are slightly different thry can be modded to interchange. Some even had manual choke brakets but that means altering some linkages too if you did. 

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1 minute ago, cam.in.head said:

No worries mate. If you get the pic from snowy to compare thats fine.

if not feel free to email me a pic of yours to look at. 

The carb choke vac unit frequently have leaking diagragms so dont be surprised if it does. They used a similar unit on lots of vauxhall / opels of the era and although some are slightly different thry can be modded to interchange. Some even had manual choke brakets but that means altering some linkages too if you did. 

There is actually a picture in the haynes manual. 

But I will get a picture for you. 

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32 minutes ago, Snowy said:

There is actually a picture in the haynes manual. 

But I will get a picture for you. 

Aha - yes you are correct Snowy!

Stand down please Gents, I have the information that I need.

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

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Just spent a few minutes with Autosol metal polish on the carburettor.

I was only applying and removing it with a rag, but the results were positive enough to encourage me to spent an hour or two more on it again soon.

Particular thanks to Julian for being brave enough to mention that this small detail was letting the car down. 

While I was in the garage I took the opportunity to connect the various vacuum pipes to the correct points (in accordance to the Haynes manual diagrams). Until tonight, I hadn’t even noticed those diagrams before. As they say: every day is a school day!

Thanks once again for everyone’s help and advice 

:thumbup

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Just thought I'd add, only because you said you'd finished the front suspension, that you do know you'll have to readjust the front wheel bearings after your first day of driving?

It's rare to get new bearings right first time as they will bed in.

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