Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
IanMc

Polar White and Rust - a restoration epic, can it even be done?

Recommended Posts

To put the lower balljoint nut on(or any balljoint nut for that matter)you put a suitable spacer under the nut ,i use a ring spanner ,and use it to take up the gap on the nut before it gets to the self locking bit.you then can pull the taper into the joint good and firm and tight. Then remove nut and spacer spanner and carefully fit the nut properly.

removing is more tricky.plenty of wd on the nut and dont allow it to become tight or once the taper slips if it does you will have a bugger of a job getting the nut off a spinning joint and may need to cut nut off.not so bad on a lower joint as you can always try a jack under it but  annoying when it happens to a top one or track rod end !

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice one, thanks Chris. :thumbup

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a short update today.

This morning i stripped out all of the components for the OSF suspension. Subsequently all the major parts have now been wire brushed, Hammerited Black and left to dry. In these low temperatures, that is going to take quite some time I think...

I have taken photos, but i wont bother posting those ones up as they are of course almost identical to the NS :rolleyes:

Have a good afternoon everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its all going to go quiet for the next two weeks as we off on holiday tomorrow.

I was at the NEC yesterday and naturally visited the OMOC stand in Hall 4 - two lovely cars to look at, a Silver Hatch and a Red Coupe. The owners of both cars are very lucky people!

Take care all, have a great Easter break and for all those that venture out in their cars - enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Painted all of the remaining visible bits and bobs under the OSF wheel arch today. The arms, hub and spring etc were painted before I went away.

The only problem that I have is that before everything can go back together I need a replacement brake disc backing plate, this side is toast.

I have place an ad in the 'Parts Wanted' section if anyone can help.

Have a good weekend everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

This morning I realised that my yest pieces were still in their little bath. As its been just over three weeks I thought I would rinse them off to see what, if anything had happened.

As they came out, all covered in gloopy brown gunk:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

And after a quick rinse and a rub under a warm tap:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Additional photo now the parts are drier:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Conclusions and thoughts:

It has had a good effect on the long screw and the dodgy weld runs on the Stainless plate.

The short screw and small spring Steel bracket were heavily corroded, but it had improved things here also.

The long mudguard bracket has been improved, but probably needed more time in the bath to get rid of most or all rust. There are a few pin holes in this that have got right through to base metal, but not enough to use it as it is.

Interesting though.

 

Edited by IanMc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This afternoon I completed the reassembly of the OS front suspension.

Unfortunately my friend did not get a chance to skim my brake discs up while I was on holiday, so the final bits of the jigsaw will have to wait for a few more days.

It feels like I have taken a big step forwards today though, as the mechanical and electrical side of the project is now almost complete.

The bodywork looms... :lol:  :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try a non organic stuff, a 5l drum is 7quid in a farm supply shop, this stuff is by no way organic, must take a few photos next time!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a small amount of work tonight. I thought that I would do a tiny bit of detailing in a different colour to try to break up all the Black under the bonnet.

So i painted the dipstick, oil filler cap and the rad cap in Silver. I think that it has lifted things a little under there.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another quick job tonight. This one has been niggling at me for a couple of weeks - namely the two track rod ends...

Even though the rubber boots and the tapers look fine and they feel nice and tight when you move them in your hand, I just couldn't get comfortable with not replacing them.

As the replacements were only a tenner for both, I decided to get it done. So both ball joints and now the TRE's have been changed on the front suspension.

Still waiting for the brake discs to be skimmed/cleaned up so that I can fit those and the new wheel bearings that I have waiting for each side. As soon as that is done the wheels can go back on and we can move forward again.

Have a nice evening everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cut off the entire exhaust system this morning which had all but rotted away.

As anticipated, despite repeated soakings during the week with penetrating fluid, 5 of the 6 downpipe to manifold bolts sheared off. The sixth one was missing already...

So that now leaves me with at least 5 bolts to remove - any ideas - drilling?, welding nuts to the remains and trying again:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

On the plus side, I now have some useful access to other parts to clean, paint and generally inspect.

Cheers all, have a good weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Hi ian.thats a shame.i assume the whole manifold is now removed as a unit it will make removing them much easier and to be honest i doubt you would reach them all with it still on engine. ..?

you have the choice of welding nuts on to the remaining bits or drilling them out.some are blind holes and some go all the way through. Just be carefull and start small but you know that anyway .

this will give you the ideal chance to remove the oil pressure sender and check/clean etc the terminals and redo the wiring. Its a bugger with the manifold in the way.

good luck. 

Final options are to get an engineering shop to get them out or worse case get another manifold but it shouldnt come to that.   ( just have a good look around the manifold thou as i have sometimes seen them crack )

Edited by cam.in.head
Read original post wrong !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi IanMc,

i had exactly the same problem with my manifold when I removed it a while back but luckily enough for me I only had one bolt shear. My solution was to soak in wd40 for about a week, morning and evening then this is the important part, start with a small sharp drill 3mm is fine, make shure you start exactly in the MIDDLE of the bolt and drill the stud, then start working up drill sizes until you are nearing the threads on the manifold and then select a suitable sized easy out, spray on shock and unlock, wind easy out in and the remaining “shell” of the bolt should come out easily enough leaving the threads on the manifold intact. This worked for me, as always no warranty applied or given only advice, hope this helps, good luck :thumbup

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Chris. I have checked the manifold for cracks and all is OK thank goodness.

This morning I had a little go at this job and decided to start with the ones that were sticking out the most, thinking they would give me the best chance of success and therefore motivation  :lol:

I used Billy blowtorch on four of them followed by my trusty stillsons - the good news is that two of the four came out pretty easily, the third just got chewed up a bit and didn't budge and the forth turned about 1/3 of a turn then sheared off again flush with the face.

I might try welding a nut on two that have just a bit still visible and try drilling the others. I need to get a selection of cobalt drills first though as the ones I have wont be any use in there.

Wish me luck!

4 minutes ago, Mike. said:

Hi IanMc,

i had exactly the same problem with my manifold when I removed it a while back but luckily enough for me I only had one bolt shear. My solution was to soak in wd40 for about a week, morning and evening then this is the important part, start with a small sharp drill 3mm is fine, make shure you start exactly in the MIDDLE of the bolt and drill the stud, then start working up drill sizes until you are nearing the threads on the manifold and then select a suitable sized easy out, spray on shock and unlock, wind easy out in and the remaining “shell” of the bolt should come out easily enough leaving the threads on the manifold intact. This worked for me, as always no warranty applied or given only advice, hope this helps, good luck :thumbup

Hi Mike,

Many thanks for your input, much appreciated mate :thumbup

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK some tiny amounts of progress on the exhaust manifold a short time ago.

I remembered that I had bought some of those 'drill anything' drills at the Practical Classics show at the NEC a couple of years ago, so thought I would try those...

Yes, they worked very well, at least on the one I tried an hour ago. As the manifold has M10 x 1.5 thread in it I carefully opened up the center hole from 2 mm to 8.5 mm. Then I tapped it out again (really only removing the rest of the bolt of course) - success!

Only three more to go :lol: - but there is no hurry of course, its the end result that is the important thing   :thumbup

Have a nice evening all.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job, any ideas on what you are gonna replace em with. Gonna be in the same boat soon.

Lucky removed all 6 recently intact, never removed before. Soaked them in kerosene for a few weeks, perfect condition, will run a tap and dye set over them, is it worth getting the original bolts coated, zinc or ceramic?

Or just new stainless?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Good job, any ideas on what you are gonna replace em with. Gonna be in the same boat soon.

Lucky removed all 6 recently intact, never removed before. Soaked them in kerosene for a few weeks, perfect condition, will run a tap and dye set over them, is it worth getting the original bolts coated, zinc or ceramic?

Or just new stainless?

Well done that man, good job I’m pleased for you.

To be honest, I hadn’t really given it too much thought yet. My gut feel is to go for Stainless, but not sure if the dissimilar metal might make things worse?!

Having said that, I’m not sure if that is possible at the moment lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using stainless with split washers and never had a problem. Can't remember if I've used hex or cap heads as its been a while since I've seen them!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Exclusive Opel said:

I'm using stainless with split washers and never had a problem. Can't remember if I've used hex or cap heads as its been a while since I've seen them!

Great - many thanks for your input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeh, just wait to you get to removing the swanneck bolt! Mastered this too! Or the bolt on the crank pulley on a redtop, On those stainless bolts, would imagine hexagon heat being cursed at in yrs to come, any other options? Maybe stainless studs and copper nuts, oh just watch buyer your new gasket, there are differences! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes be carefull with the gasket size. a lot of the ones advertised as being correct are actually carlton ones so check size when ordering. ( unless youve already got it )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
50 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

yes be carefull with the gasket size. a lot of the ones advertised as being correct are actually carlton ones so check size when ordering. ( unless youve already got it )

They are manta GTE gaskets. Just for left hand drive cars.

The left hand drive cars got a different manifold and down pipe as they don't have to clear the steering gear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your help and advice guys, much appreciated.

I actually received an exhaust downpipe gasket with the complete head set that I bought when I did the engine work a while back. However, your comments did make me check - its a perfect fit.

A bit more work tonight with the drill and ta dah!:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Another small step forwards...

Have a good evening everyone.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Patience and time sort a lot of things out. Nice work there, great thread (no pun intended ;)) you are building up on the forum.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, robah said:

Patience and time sort a lot of things out. Nice work there, great thread (no pun intended ;)) you are building up on the forum.

Thank you Sir, much appreciated :thumbup

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×