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Early 1800 coupe restoration


Kevin Abbott
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22 hours ago, Kevin Abbott said:

Hi Kevin,

Would you be kind enough to expand on you fantastic method of reproducing these, I am needing to renew mine. yet ours are very perished. Regards Darryl.

 

22 hours ago, Kevin Abbott said:

 I found that the centaur had solid glass guides in the back edges of the doors so I removed them. Took them to my Laboratory and I made a silicone mould  using them as templates, and used that to cast new ones in acrylic . Then autoclaved them to set them without porosity and trimmed them up  then painted them satin black  

they fit very well  

 

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Hi. I could tell you but it takes materials used in bulk that cost around £200. The hydroflask is about £400 and the lab is about 20 grand :D

I can make them to order at £30 a set inc post. 

I can reproduce some items using the same method too. Show me what you require. 

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This car is going to be fantastic, nice job you'v done with the window guides.

Had the same problem with both my cars and bought them from a webstore, had to give my right arm to buy them.

I remember the brand Reprotec on the box.

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4 hours ago, H-400 said:

This car is going to be fantastic, nice job you'v done with the window guides.

Had the same problem with both my cars and bought them from a webstore, had to give my right arm to buy them.

I remember the brand Reprotec on the box.

Cheers, yes reprotech do them but they are rubber. the early cars were plastic and I would say they are better.

I made them using a 2 part pourable silicone rubber, the original items were boxed in wax, set at an angle they could be reproduced at ( think release and casting lines) then 2 part silicone poured around them, wait until set, remove, mix a 2 part acrylic and pour that into the mould, wait to pre set, put in autoclave in a warm water bath, pressurise to 2 bar, wait 20 mins, remove from autoclave, release from mould, trim using micromotor (£600) polish using burs and pumice, wiper with monomer. paint, drill fixing hole.... done 

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21 hours ago, Kevin Abbott said:

Hi. I could tell you but it takes materials used in bulk that cost around £200. The hydroflask is about £400 and the lab is about 20 grand :D

I can make them to order at £30 a set inc post. 

I can reproduce some items using the same method too. Show me what you require. 

That sounds like a fun place to work, would be great if you are able to remake a set, will take some photos of what we have and pop them your way, will PM you, will Paypal be ok?

Cheers Darryl

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12 hours ago, discodas said:

That sounds like a fun place to work, would be great if you are able to remake a set, will take some photos of what we have and pop them your way, will PM you, will Paypal be ok?

Cheers Darryl

Yea send me some pics and I’ll have a look

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  • 1 month later...

Quite a bit of work done since the last update. 

The car now runs and drives. 

Gearbox and prop painted  

new oil in the diff and the box drained and re filled with correct gm stuff

New exhaust

engine parts blasted and fitted 

new wiring

new petrol lines 

new brake cylinders 

new calipers 

pads etc

rad cleaned and painted  

more bolts and clips and pipes cleaned and painted  

bonnet is scrap so a replacement added  

car sent for a full paint job  and when it got to the painters they noticed the doors had really poor repairs making the lower parts concave!

 

second hand good doors with trim pins sorted and prepped using a wire wheel, DA and fertan rust fluid to penetrate the folded skin in the bottoms of the doors  

 

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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New plugs. Leads. Dizzy cap. Arm. Oil. 2k painted axle after nail gun and bilt hamber. Every brake line replaced. New fluid 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Edited by Kevin Abbott
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47 minutes ago, moodoo said:

Never saw the Fertan product before. Is it similar to BH Hydrate 80? Just curious as to why your preference for Fertan on the door skin seams? 

Fin

The fertan is a thinner product so soaks into all the seem and skins better 😊

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On 10/12/2017 at 23:15, moodoo said:

Ah, interesting to know, thanks. But both designed to do the same job, right?

Yea, just different products for different uses to do a similar thing

We use blasting and a diluted phosphoric acid mix on bigger parts and in chassis, then after paint nail everything in noxudol rust preventer fluid

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  • 6 months later...

Just a quick update due to me and Kevin being mega busy both at work and home the car build was put on hold but we are now getting back on with it the car has now been prepped primered guide coated and wet flatted ready for paint it's booked in for it's repaint on Monday so watch this space 😎

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