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'87 Coupe - Clubman Rally Car


JohnClayton
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Most patches of bubbling paintwork have been rubbed down, rust treated and filler applied if needed, some have been undercoated as well.

The engine and gearbox have been dropped out of the car, we will be stripping and cleaning the engine soon, gearbox is being cleaned but not stripped and then we will repaint with metal paint, any recommendations on paint?

The exhaust has been completely taken off too, the long flexi section had rusted right through so is now in 2 parts and needs replacing.

Areas of the engine bay that needed some work have been rubbed down, rust treated and painted with black metal paint.

It does have a cable hand brake.

It has a Fire Extinguisher but not sure when it was last checked or filled, it feels quite light.

There are no seats or harnesses fitted in the car at the moment, John removed the seats for another car and it didn't have harnesses when we got it.

If welding is affordable now would be a good time to do it as the car is as stripped down as possible.

The electrics could do with being redone, something is draining the battery overnight even with everything off. The Earths don't seem great, headlights flicker a bit and come on randomly even if not switched on, and we have replaced the wiring to the back of the light units. The fan is blowing the fuse so we have put a bigger fuse in but the wiring was getting too hot so we took it out again.

Other MOT items:-

Horn button is needed, it has a horn and wiring going back to the dashboard but no button. We have tested the horn and it does work.

Rear Lights (most have no bulbs except indicators and the reverse lights have no bulb holders but I don't think reverse lights are on the MOT)

2 tyres - 195/60 R14

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Regarding the horn, you will need to ensure that the co-driver has a horn button too. Commonly fitted in the nav footrest but could be on central console area - so long as they can easily reach it. Foot-operated is better as the nav will generally be holding onto paperwork of some sort if doing their job ;-)

Just something to bear in mind, if wiring up a horn button, wire up one for each occupant for rally use.

Needs two fire extinguishers too - the plumbed-in one as well as handheld. They will want servicing/refilling, though no need doing that too soon ahead of time, other prep work would be more important right now.

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  • 2 months later...
If you (or anyone else you know) would be interested in some work welding a rally car in Reading then please let me know. If you can spread the word in your local motor club / motorsport circles I'd be grateful as well.
The underbody has corroded chassis legs that need sorting out with repair panels (that I will obtain), as detailed in the car's blog:

'87 Coupe - Clubman Rally Car

http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/24398-87-coupe-clubman-rally-car/?gopid=200480#entry200480

The car is at this place http://www.skidzreading.org.uk/ and is accessible during working hours (and possibly during school holidays by prior arrangement -TBC). You would be able to use the welding equipment and 4 post electric lift at the venue.

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We need to source some more flexible exhaust tubing to replace that on the car (too rusted).

I phoned an Exhaust fitter in Reading but they can't source any flexy tubing (and their suppliers in Reading -Unipart & Bosal) may well not have it either. I struggled to find a phone number for the latter, but a quick google came up with this, which should solve the problem:

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/flexible-exhaust-tubing

http://exhaustpartsuk.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=102_1384

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Diam-Heavy-Duty-Flexible-Exhaust/dp/B0051ODAWK

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Exhaust-Parts-UK/Flexi-/_i.html?_fsub=1225735018

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These are the parts I think we need:

http://www.klokkerholm.com/xProductCatalogue/productCatalogue.aspx?Group=737499

5066 001 £29.45 Foot Board, door sill, 2-dr, Repair Panel is this adequate to do both inner and outer sills?

5066 002 £29.45 Foot Board, door sill, 2-dr, Repair Panel

5072 800 x 2 £47.90 Frame Side Rail, Repair Panel, Front Section, Left and right, Length [cm]: 47

P+P 11.99

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  • 2 months later...

Latest news on the trial of the Volvo brakes is that Skidz have prevailed in getting them to both fit on AND fit under the wheel (which has been a problem until recently).  The disc is well offset in each caliper, so we will need to buy the relevant Vauxhall discs to see if this solves this issue.  Overall, I am now optimistic that these calipers can be made to work...

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Update from Max:

 

LOTS of progress today (Thursday) with Manta, very exciting. Will try to update blog asap but I’m always so busy. My computer is hardly on anymore because I’m always out in the garage! Anyways I received the two swan necks from TGM and they look to be a good fit, been prepping what’s left of the chassis and floor pan to receive the swan neck (once I get some more welding wire, ran out!!!)

 

Also adapted an old welding trolley Philip donated me, it now has some new heavy duty casters.

Looking at getting a second hand compressor from a friend soon that should speed up some jobs J

Passenger floor pan has been plated to make clean meatal for swan necks to be plug welded to.

Brake callipers have been tidied up and sanded where I had previously grinded them down to fit wheels.

Looking at getting my own gas bottle + regulator for convenience soon rather than using Phil’s.

Phillip has some red enamel I’m going to paint the callipers with on a rainy day.

 

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  • 3 months later...

14/02/15

 

N/S/F swan neck fully welded in place, needs part of chassis rail replacing where it connects. Going to make U shaped sleeve. 

 

O/S/F swan neck repairable for now but will need replacing in future.

 

Subframe mounting bushes received and ready for fitting

 

Switch panel inside car updated to include fuel pump switch, rad fan switch, ign switch, start button, fuse board, new kill switch.

 

Engine bay, master cylinder, servo, brake distribution valve all rust treated with phosphoric acid + painted. 

 

Lost rocker replaced with new but will rattle and knock badly so camshaft and rocker set shall be replaced when funds available

 

Subframe cleaned, ARB cleaned + painted, steering rack cleaned + painted

 

Fibre glass bonnet cleaned, tcut + polished. May need re-painting in future. Needs mounting to car properly

 

New spark plugs need to be sourced

 

Unleaded additive needs to be discussed 

 

Chassis will be waxed once work complete 

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22/02/15 

 

Some pictures of work completed, clicky clicky!

 

http://imgur.com/a/En4eN

 

Both swan necks now attached, need to tidy up with sleeves where they meet (or don't meet at the moment) the chassis rails.

 

Engine bay has been stripped and painted with black gloss.

 

Uprated Volvo callipers ground to allow space for wheels.

 

Estimated 2 more full working days to get it rolling again! (just gotta find that time!)

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 like the picture of the Manta on four axel stands, now all you have to do is photoshop infront of a suitable background to pretend your flying over a hump !!

 

 One issue, that engine it's a Fo... Fro.... ( no still can't say the word )

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 Generally Fo... Fro.... ( those things ) Pinto engine were used back in the day because the tuning parts were cheep and plentiful

 

 Things have moved one, there are many much better engine cheeply available, the only real reason for using something like this would because you had one already.

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 Generally Fo... Fro.... ( those things ) Pinto engine were used back in the day because the tuning parts were cheep and plentiful

 

 Things have moved one, there are many much better engine cheeply available, the only real reason for using something like this would because you had one already.

And that's exactly why it's being used!  :rolleyes:  :D

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  • 1 month later...

Little update of work completed recently. 

 

 

Driver + passenger foot wells are now plated + zinc primed. 

 

N/S/F Swan neck sleeve completed so that it joins chassis rail correctly + zinc primed. Upper chassis rail rust hole treated with phosphoric acid, plated + zinc primed.

 

O/S/F Swan neck sleeve tacked into place. Another upper chassis rail hole treated as above.

 

Decided on securing bonnet with 4 bonnet pins, one in each corner. Parts on order. 

 

Switch panel inside now has water temp and oil pressure warning lights. 

 

Had a 'DOH!' moment when I realised one of the valve stem seals was naffed. Valve must have been inserted dry (oops). New set on order. Luckily haven't torqued head bolts yet :-) 

 

Speaking of Torques where's the best place to source them? I assume haynes manual....?

 

Ordered a pack of stickers to identify tow points + kill switches etc (because we all know they add ohh atleast 10bhp)  :rolleyes:

 

Very close to inserting subframe back into car. It will have new rear bushes but any others that are advisable to replace while its out? 

 

Lastly, thinking of going for solid engine mounts made from new out of some fairly thick steel. Old mounts were made of cheese and bent in my hands, also bushes are shot. (not writing off bushes just wondering if solid mounts are a bad idea) 

 

http://imgur.com/a/En4eNNew photos are at bottom... 

 

I'll be the first to admit the welding isn't pretty, but its damn well attached! 

 

 

Hopefully next update will include pics of subframe in!

Special thanks to John for letting me take this on, it's slowly coming along  :)

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Very close to inserting subframe back into car. It will have new rear bushes but any others that are advisable to replace while its out? 

 

 

Not sure about bushes in general, but you may want to consider adjusting the shims/spacers either side of the upper wishbone mount to increase castor a small amount. Search on the forum for recommendations. Just thought it may be a lot easier to do this with the front subframe still out of the car if you are considering suspension setting changes.

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 I have read an interview with Russel Brooks and he said to make the Manta Handle well they ran a lot of caster, he complained that it made the steering almost impossible heavy.

 

 But now a cure could be effected with electronic power steering, another benifit of which at the end of a long day competing you won't feel so knackered !!

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I wouldn't solid mount the engine, normally i use the 50mm thick rs2000 mounts.

You can solid mount the crossmember to the shell though (thats what the works cars did)

 

The rack isn't changed for more castor, just move the upper wishbone back, you can get a little by swapping the spacers around.

For more you need to trim down the upper tube and add more spacers.

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I wouldn't solid mount the engine, normally i use the 50mm thick rs2000 mounts.

You can solid mount the crossmember to the shell though (thats what the works cars did)

 

The rack isn't changed for more castor, just move the upper wishbone back, you can get a little by swapping the spacers around.

For more you need to trim down the upper tube and add more spacers.

Interesting, would have thought cross member wanted flexibility. Will search for some rs2000 eng. mounts. Thanks for your help!  :)

 

Tempted to leave suspension geometry alone for now. Just want car MOT'd asap then mods can be here and there afterwards. Front subframe will no doubt be off again in future. 

 

Really struggling to find time to progress on welding. Because I'm working outside, by the time iv dragged all my equipment out and dialled in the mig its getting dark! Sorely need a workshop.  :P

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  • 3 weeks later...

I wouldn't solid mount the engine

 

I'll second that -it puts all the vibration (and shocks from bumpy rally stages) straight into the chassis causing fatigue issues (and a lot of noise!).  Poly mounts are great, but rubber are fine (and are great for taking the shocks out).  We can always upgrade the mounts for motorsport use in future, so recommend just fitting standard (but new) rubber mounts to get us going.

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