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Manta A Series V8 Supercharged


Paul Barrett
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My wife will kill me if she's sees what I've been buying haha

Been meaning to buy a press for a long time, so I thought i may aswell get a half decent one, so many uses

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Also got a this wilwood tandem MC for a good price, hopefully my calls are right and the bore is suitable

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And a pulley for the eaton m90, been waiting some time for this to come from the states, 2.5" should net 9psi boost, maximum for the m90 and the engine really in stock form

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Well squeezed an hour in,

Press erected

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Stripped the eaton shaft down ready for new bearings, had to turn up a spilt sleeve to shift one bearing, so not straight forward, but all ready for new bits

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Stripping the nose piece now and cleaning, not sure weather to polish it up or just paint, opinions?

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Also need to machine some material off the end for the new ting pulley to actually fit, literally 1mm needed,

Edited by Paul Barrett
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Nice haul there Paul  :P . When I got my 20 press similar to yours the first thing I did was cut the angle that holds the bed and widen it with more angle. That way you get a lot more things through the gap :) To take up the now back and forth slap I glued some plastic buttons on the sides to make it stable again. 10 minute job for a man of your means  :thumbup .

 

Tony

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the snout done, baked some engine paint on, and polished the face of the pulley

You can just about see I had to machine of some material of the snout tip to allow the tiny pulley to clear it, I say machine, but elbow grease with some files ;)

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Got permission to spend a few hours on the A, a very productive few they were too!

Got cracking with the inlet manifold for SC,

Lopped off the centre of the inlet, nice new blade in the bandsaw with a course TPI to lunch through the cast alloy, then flatted it on the

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As you can see though it's absolutly filthy and corroded,

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So after a bit of a wire brushing, acetone in a bucket, flap wheel on angle grinder action got it to a reasonable state for tigging up, some 6mm plate for the sides, with a set of holes ore drilled for opening up to port match once welded

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Despite all the careful cleaning the welds were not great, lots of crap in the cast ally I guess, itl do I won't really be seen much

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Repeat on t'other side

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Just need to open up the round holes with a die to match inlet tracts, will drop some weld on to and radius them a touch to aid flow

Dropped the 10mm top plate on to see where I'm at, looks

Like I can' trim another 15-20mm off to further lower the charger, looks like I'll get away with a slight bonnet bulge fingers crossed

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Looks at home there Paul  :thumbup Had a similar weld problem on a sump I had modded, lots of crap in the cast. As long as it seals thats the main thing. Where are you bring the fresh air from to get to the back of the blower?

 

Tony

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After a measure up an inter cooler in the manifols isn't a possibility.

Bent up the bottom of the inlet this morning for welding in, my new press is awesome, made easy work of the 6mm ally plate

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Dodgy looking support device

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Had to do a few small tacks to hold everything in place before removing and welding it up, no pics of this because it's shite! At least only the good welds on show

Edited by Paul Barrett
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I have learnt a lot welding this up, arc gap is key, getting a nice ball to form on the tungsten and keeping a consistent arc gap between the tip and the piece, not easy with the heat generated, also the piece needs to be hot prior to welding which I could do with some oxy flame gear, made do with a cheap blowtorch I had lying about. Also clean clean clean, the ally has to be spotless and as with steel the better the fit the easier it is..

How flat the piece has stayed I won't know until I mess around with some liquid gasket and see where it meets well, fingers crossed for that when it finished

Next up is the top plate for the charger to bolt to,

This will be challenging as there is no room for error really, the top pulley has to line up with the bottom pulley perfectly and the top plate is 10mm thick, I think this will be a challenge for my little tig, as its on its max with the 6mm, plenty of heat in the piece should do it,

Edited by Paul Barrett
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  • 2 weeks later...

Been meaning to make one of these for ages,

Ordered some 10mm plate steel yesterday, picked it up this afternoon and got cracking!

It's 1000x600mm, sturdy as hell and a proper job, welder on its max, just as I was about to do my last bead of the day it cut out

Few pics of where I got to

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Need some more box section to tie in the legs and make a foot rest in the centre,

Once it's done I'm going to have a shift round in the workshop. I'm going to remove my large and too high bench , as I just fill it with crap and don't put anything away! This smaller table may make me be a little

More tidy, well that's the plan

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I have learnt a lot welding this up, arc gap is key, getting a nice ball to form on the tungsten and keeping a consistent arc gap between the tip and the piece, not easy with the heat generated, also the piece needs to be hot prior to welding which I could do with some oxy flame gear, made do with a cheap blowtorch I had lying about. Also clean clean clean, the ally has to be spotless and as with steel the better the fit the easier it is..

Hi flat the pice has stayed I won't know until I mess around with some liquid gasket and see where it meets well, fingers crossed for that when it finished

Next up is the top plate for the charger to bolt to,

This will be challenging as there is no room for error really, the top pulley has to line up with the bottom pulley perfectly and the top plate is 10mm thick, I think this will be a challenge for my little tig, as its on its max with the 6mm, plenty of heat in the piece should do it,

 Only just caught up with this thread! Looing good!

 

Re welding, yep on heavy alloy preheat is really key. Otherwise you need too much heat for the tungsten to stand to get the weld going at the start. Tacking thick stuff is really quite tricky!

 

Presume you're using a 5/32 tungsten. A big tungsten really helps too (also assume youre using a water cooled torch, you'll struggle on the long runs if not)

 

Re. getting the charger position right, you are best to get it roughly right at fab stage then make/bodge a milling fixture up to get the whole lot in a milling machine and finish it off after welding, as no matter what you do it will move a bit

 

nice work, looking very good

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Cheers,

Yes using a big tungsten and getting it as hot as poss now with a map gas torch.

Only have an air cooled wp26

I'm only doing short runs on this thick ally as machine is on its max

Very true on the milling at the end, which is in fact why my next big purchase is a mill

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Ps rigging up water cooler can be done cheaply. Water cooled torch not too bad off eBay. eBay Pond pump and a tank of some sort and you're pretty much away. Return water from torch to the tank and plop the pump in the bottom of the tank. Put a little inline cheapy plastic fuel filter in torch feed on mine to stop muck blocking torch head. Mine only has a 25 litre tank and that keeps it cool for a good 45 mins of 175amps or so. Water is maybe 35 Deg or so after that

Edited by Retro Power
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