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Binnacle-ZA

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About Binnacle-ZA

  • Rank
    Rekord
  • Birthday 14/12/90

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Africa
  1. "A" Ashtray Repair

    Oh wow, that's way more complicated than I was expecting... You should have PM re the loft.
  2. "A" Ashtray Repair

    Thanks 611, that would be very helpful.
  3. "A" Ashtray Repair

    This is a slightly odd question. A Series with, what I think is, the later style centre console and a busted ashtray. Mine has always been broken, and am now tired of having a hole in the console, but also find car ashtrays useful places to keep spare change etc. Pics of what I've got at the moment. If someone could provide an example of how they should be, that'd be extremely appreciated. Not sure I'll be able to anything about it, but I might as well have a go. Amazing how a close up picture makes the plastic look terrible...
  4. HT Leads Manta A

    1-3-4-2. Looks Ok. But it looks like you've got a rotated Dizzy (180deg). This can happen when the timing is set off the wrong cylinder or something. I've seen it before, in fact, mine is the same (wasn't always, ). It can work fine, but isn't technically correct. The link below has a useful PDF. CIH tune up It's about the Bosch dizzys, but the same principles stand for us with Delcos.
  5. Oil Pressure - Up and Down

    Neither, Mineral based (Shell Helix HX5 25w60 and Shell Helix HX3 20w50 - Don't know if either of these are available in the UK.) Gaskets was the thinnest available (I forget the size) Relief is in case, flat gear cover. Re: Assumptions: Oil pickup is one of the unknowns. Filter is brand new. Level is correct, leaning towards possibly overfilled. Rotor/Casing clearance is another unknown. Filter bypass is working, "looked" alright.
  6. Oil Pressure - Up and Down

    19S, will assume that's the same as the 20S. But I'm not sure where the timing cover comes from. With gasket, as gears protrude slightly with straight edge. (but it's so thin I thought it was a sticker.) Cover was machined flat few months ago. Currently using 20w50 was on 25w60, almost no discernible difference. 25W60 was better at idle though.
  7. Oil Pressure - Up and Down

    Peaks at around 4, then drops to 2, then rises to 3, then back to 4 for a bit then down a bit then up a bit... That kind of fluctuating. Never pegs either way (unless the car is off.) Oil light comes on if it drops below 0.8 (<1). Needle moves smoothly, doesn't jump to new positions. Checked the wiring first, probably should have mentioned that, all seems good/ok. Gauge had decent calibration at the beginning of the year.
  8. Oil Pressure - Up and Down

    I seem to ask a lot of oil pump related questions... Anyway: What does a fluctuating oil pressure tell me when the engine is at constant, high RPM? This happens at about any rpm, although I notice it most around 3k. It is worse when warm, which I suppose makes sense. As the warm, "thinner" oil is making whatever it is worse. Worn pump gears? Worn Housing? Bad Pressure Regulator (Don't think it is this, if I'm honest)? Something else? I know my gears aren't great, as they can't generate enough pressure at a normal idle, but would this lead to a changing pressure when the gears should be spinning at a constant speed? Or could bad gear lash be causing this? How likely is it that a hole in, or a loosely attached, sump pickup pipe could cause this? Or alternatively worn Main Bearings? ( <-These are my best guesses if it isn't the pump.) Other symptoms include a long pressure build up time when starting cold. Usually only picks up after the engine has started, so there's often a horrendous clatter for a few seconds before the lifters lube up. PS. I have got replacement gears on order, but it seems the entirety of Germany has gone on holiday, so the delivery has been delayed. And I decided there was a possibility of there being another cause in addition to the bad gears. Cheers
  9. A Series Injection

    Thanks Tony I knew the GT/E was injected, just wasn't sure if it was ever available in RHD markets.
  10. A Series Injection

    One main question. Does the (CIH) injection manifold clear the brake master cylinder when it's on the "right" side? Really would like to go injection (No idea why, I just "like" it), but obviously would like to avoid pitfalls like this before I start amassing a hoard of parts, or hoarding a mass of parts if you prefer... And a couple of secondary questions.... Is there any extra power to be made out of the standard injection (2.0E)? I'm assuming not particularly. What about going slightly less standard, like taking the trigger wheel setup from the 2.4 and using a "proper" mapped ECU? Any suggestions of things I'm not aware of? There are problems I'm already aware of, we never got Injected Manta's in SA (I'd be using the injection system from a Rekord before anyone wonders) so I'll need a modified tank or swirl pot. Very much appreciated.
  11. Idle Oil Pressure

    Okay, here goes. Checked the clearances as best I could (Could only find my old feeler gauges which I can only actually read about 3 of the feelers). Gears protrude, almost imperceptibly, smallest feeler catches the gap, but can't actually get under the set-square. There is some quite noticeable rotational play between the driving gear and the dizzy. Don't have the backlash as I couldn't read the feelers. Will be coming back to it once I find my good feelers. Made a paper gasket for the time being (to lessen the gap), little gasket sealer and back on. Pressure now hovers at just under 1 kp/cm^2 at hot idle (about 1000 rpm). Timing cover part number is 8 981 079. Only info I found on this was an old E-bay listing, seems it might be off a six cylinder. Don't know if this will make a difference. Gonna take a look at the relief valve myself sometime this week.
  12. Idle Oil Pressure

    It's still there, they just fitted a much heavier spring, so it never opens. Replace the spring with an earlier one, and bingo. At least this is what I have been lead to believe, I do stand to be corrected on this. But yes, if it is a late one, it should actually have the valve in the pump cover *EDIT* Nevermind. Been doing some more reading. If it is a late model timing cover, there is no provision for a relief valve in the cover. You are Correct, doc. No idea what I have then, I haven't ever seen a pic of a timing cover exactly like mine, has 4 (i think) cast ridges, 1 long, others shorter. Will put a pic up and grab the part number when I can. *MORE EDIT* I should stop reading things now, I'm getting so many contradictions. Yes, later have the timing cover relief,it's just disabled. No, it doesn't have it at all. I have declared my brain to have "the dumbs" until further notice, ha ha ha. PS. Thank you to everyone who has and is posting.
  13. Idle Oil Pressure

    It took me a while to figure that out what you where getting at, damn this heatstroke... Nearly wrote something horribly sarcastic Mine has, what appears to me, a late model timing cover and a flat steel Oil Pump cover (with an etched "A" on it). The valve in the timing cover is working (Machie said so at least). Basically what I think happened is this; The PO had the timing cover replaced, for what ever reason, and it was replaced with a bare/stripped one from a later engine, they put in the old the gears and the relief valve, either because they didn't have fresh ones, or they knew that the timing cover relief valve in late models had been disabled in favour of the pump cover one. I'll only be able to check protrusions etc, probably next week, hopefully this weekend. Have laid up the car until this gets sorted.
  14. Idle Oil Pressure

    Whew, that's more responses than i was expecting Will try to answer everything I can. Filter is brand new (obviously after a rebuild), checked the relief valve in the timing cover and it was fine. Pump cover has no wear to speak of, was machined flat a year or 2 (or perhaps 3) ago. Not many kms racked up in that time. Pressure is perfect above 1200 rpm. Has correct gasket. Machie checked pressure with his proper gauge and confirmed all but no pressure at idle, and rising with the revs. I can't remember the actual numbers (too many things on the go at the moment.) It's a '75 1.9 that has been rebored to 2.0 (I'll edit this info into the original post.) so does have the gasket, with a tiny amount of sealer. Your English is excellent Oh man will that be a pain. Can't imagine how you would have ever found that. Non of the major parts places have anything. Am actually going to have a try with GM South Africa, we kept using the CIHs in new cars (albeit the 2.2 and 3.0) right up to 1995. Unfortunately GMSA's parts dept. is notoriously unhelpful. *EDIT* ok, for what ever reason, I can't edit my original post. Just FYI, the engine is a bored 1.9. *REVELATION* Remembered a conversation I had with the Machie, the Timing Cover has SEVERAL CAST TIMING MARKS ON IT, this is a late model feature is it not? i.e. should NOT have the gasket fitted? I'm guessing this was fitted somewhere along the line by a PO.
  15. Idle Oil Pressure

    So how is everyone? I've had my Manta's engine overhauled. Now a lovely purring 2.0. But... Oil pressure drops to nothing at idle, i.e. Idiot Light on and not registering on the original pressure gauge. Thought it might be the pump gears, swapped for a spare (used) set I had squirreled away. New are impossible to find in South Africa. The pump cover has no wear to speak of. Also checked the relief valve (timing cover one) and it's correctly seated. Pressure jumped from 2 to 3.5 while running with the other gears, but still drops to nothing at idle. Have upped the idle to about 1200 to get it just under 1. But this is obviously not right. Any Ideas what could be causing this? My mechanic thinks the gears probably are still too worn and just have too much slop at idle. All pressure numbers are taken from the original oil pressure gauge, which goes from 1 up to 5, I can't remember what the unit is off hand.
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