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paulmanta

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paulmanta last won the day on September 25 2015

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About paulmanta

  • Rank
    Muffin tester
  • Birthday 14/10/1974

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    Male
  • Location
    Cornwall

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  1. V8 Manta

    That's had a lot of work to put the B pillar back in then, back in the "day" it was made pillarless. Is it a re-shell or a different car ?
  2. GTE arrived today and now to work!

    On a GTe the fuel pump only comes on when you crank the engine, it then switches a relay to be live when running. You can test the fuel pump by running a wire from a permanant12+ in the fuse box to the fuse for the pump, with the ignition off and everything quiet you can hear the pump work. look on the fuse box cover for Einspritzenlagen and the fuse number, From memory its number 7 but I will check later.
  3. Manta GTE 1983/4

    I probably have a pair of baseplates but no gaskets, I can include some gasket paper to make the gaskets if that helps. I have sent you a text.
  4. David's point about the hole in the rubber inlet pipe between the AFM and throttle body was my next suggestion, these crack on the ribs and you cant see the leaks easily unless you bend the pipe a bit, you might have loads of cracks adding up to one big air leak.
  5. Yeah, Ive been back and edited my last post because it was crap because Im tired ! it ought to make sense now. There are three sensors in the 2.0E thermostat housing: 1. Injection temperature sensor (blue) 2. Thermo-time switch (brown) 3. Temp gauge sender The temp sensor is the single sensor type – each pin is one side of the resistor. Characteristics are: Temperature (Celsius) Resistance (Ohms) 0 4,800 – 6,600 20 2,200 – 2,800 40 1,000 – 1,400 80 270 – 380 100 < 200 The thermo-time switch is a two part switch. It only operates at water temperatures below 35C and only operates for 8 seconds when it does. At all other times it’ll be open circuit.
  6. Its got to be sensors then, the brake cleaner has a different burn rate/flash point to petrol so the sensor readings are immaterial. Edit for clarity : Its got to be sensors then, the brake cleaner has a different burn rate/flash point to petrol so when you are running the engine on squirted in brake cleaner its running despite what the sensors are telling the ecu to do and despite what the injectors are squirting, you may even be able to run the engine on just squirted brake cleaner and no injecting going on at all !
  7. Don't trust the 13mm bolt into the drivers chassis leg, they go rotten inside but look good and test good, When the injection and sparks are going on though they break down and become pants. Run a new earth from the passenger side, one of the engine mount bolts will do and take that direct to the - on the battery. The sensors are worth a try, the there are several and they each do different things, swap them out and see what happens. Email Nick webb for a list of what resistance and the purposes of those sensors, I am sure he has it in his head.
  8. Have you tried earthing the engine block to the battery ? Also a new battery with new earth straps and clean up the + at the starter ? This might be 12V supply or earth problems if you have changed all that lot over.
  9. This has been doing this for a long time and other people have tried and failed to get this to work. When you changed the injection I take it you mean the whole thing, inlet, injectors, the lot ? The external tank and pump, did that have a regulator and that satanic black pre filter in it ? Did you run the external pump from its own 12V supply so as to eliminate loom or fuse problems in the car itself ? Have you had a pressure gauge on the fuel rail to see what happens at idle/revs ?
  10. Changed the dizzy, coil and amp ?
  11. 2.4cih

  12. 2.4cih

  13. Check the fuel pressure on the injector side of the system when running, check at idle and then increase the revs gradually, pressure should remain pretty much the same, if it drops lower then its a fuel supply problem. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-MASTER-FUEL-INJECTION-INJECTOR-PRESSURE-TEST-TESTER-TOOL-KIT-GAUGE-/251963415237?hash=item3aaa309ac5:g:rjYAAOSwFnFV9o6n
  14. Remove the little prefilter that goes in the tank to pump line. I had a GTE that did this, would idle all day long but try to drive it and the thing got fuel starvation. I only found it by "t" ing a pressure gauge into the fuel rail up near the injectors and watching the pressure drop to almost nothing when it revved. Took the main filter off and cut it open and found all sorts of mud, then took the prefilter off and dried it out, then tapped it on the desk a lot and loads of dry rust dust came out. Put another one in and the car was cured. I had previously done pretty much all the stuff you have done in your list above, tank changed, well, literally everything including head off and checked for cracks. I even fitted a new pump and filter but made the error of putting that one little black plastic part cack on because it "looks ok". Weeks of pain for a bit of crud in a gauze.
  15. Gear disconnect in turns - automatic gear

    Something is making the pressure low so the clutch packs are not able to hold the drive. I think the clue is the disconnect in turns, the oil is moving away from the pick up filter and then the pump will be sucking air, this makes the problem. Your fluid is low or the filter pick up is not fitted correctly. Take the pan off and have a look, be careful of the gasket between the filter and valve body, if its slipped or missing this might be a cause.
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