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moodoo

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moodoo last won the day on January 13

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About moodoo

  • Rank
    Commodore

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ireland
  • Name
    Fin
  1. A-series front spoiler fitment

    Thanks for the advice guys. Sounds like the Lenk one is OK, certainly from the pictures on Dougs thread it looks spot on. I saw that one on ebay go for £270 alright, seems like crazy money if the Lenk one is any sort of reasonable fit at all!
  2. A-series front spoiler fitment

    Thanks Luke. Would be interested to see a few pics when you get it if you don't mind. Cheers, Fin
  3. Hi, Just wondering if anyone has fitted an A-series front spoiler from Lenk Tuning, and if so, how was the quality/fitment? Thanks, Fin
  4. Ah I'm in Monaghan, bit far for a meet up! There must have been a bit of a trend for having old Opels in showrooms. The A-series I have was in an Opel showroom in the west of Ireland, along with a GT and a Kadett, but when the owners son took over the dealership, he got rid of all of them! Best of luck with the new purchase.
  5. I was up with Robbie maybe 3 years ago buying some parts for my A series. At the time he was in the middle of building a Cobra replica if I remember right. He gave me a look around his 2 Mantas, and if the car you have bought is anything like the standard of the V8 A series he has, you have some car! Dead jealous...whereabouts in Ireland are you by the way?
  6. Opel Manta GTE parts

  7. Opel Manta GTE parts

  8. door lock key

    Hi Julian, I got a spare ignition key cut earlier this year for my A-series. The original has 105 stamped on it, and I found out that the original blank was the same as this: https://www.charlesbirch.com/p-10814-silca-hu25r-orion-hf20l.aspx So I was able to get one cut. If I remember right there are different versions of the 105 though, not all 'opel 105' key blanks looked like mine, that same key number is used all the way up to a Vectra. If you do a web search for 'opel 105 key blank' or something similar, you might be able to compare a picture to your existing key. HTH. Fin
  9. Calibra turbo front calipers

    Long shot, but in the interests of maybe helping someone out.... I have a set of calipers that I was trying to ID...I thought they were calibra calipers...they are marked as 57/25....(which is a huge piston alright!) David Howell said about them "The 57/25 is the later calipers for the 288MM discs and are the same as the early Omega/vectra's had fitted. Too big for the manta conversions unfortunately." So they're probably no good to you...but just in case they are what you're looking for? Fin
  10. A-series bushes

    Folks, Just wondering, where's the best place to get A-series bushes? I'm not looking for rock-hard track bushes, just 'standard' type ones, if they can be got. Am I right in thinking that using Polyurethane bushes can make the whole thing feel a bit too hard for comfort on bad surfaces? Is it the usual trawl through the German parts sites? I see some of them list different bushes, but was wondering if anyone does a complete kit? What has anyone else used? Thanks, Fin
  11. Wanted. GTE gear box

    In the event that a second box comes out of the woodwork, I'm looking for one too...
  12. 20XE dizzy.

    Can't offer you any help with the Dizzy I'm afraid, but I can say 'wow', that's a nice looking engine! Nice bit of fabrication on the top dizzy mount...!
  13. Fuel tank

    Some good pictures here of what Oxalic acid can do: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-using-oxalic-acid-to-remove-rust.248198/
  14. Manta A series rebuild

    Nice....Front end looks sharp! How was fitting the headlining in the end?
  15. Hi Eddie, I had a similar problem with my engine a few years ago. It would run fine for a while, then start to cough, splutter, and the engine would die. After a few minutes (maybe 10 or 15) it would restart, and be OK again, but the problem could happen again a short time later. It turned out that the wiring to the fuel pump was damaged, at the connector where it goes into the pump. It meant that instead of all the strands of wire carrying the current, there were only 2 or 3 still connected. So those pieces of wire were getting hot, resistance was increasing, and eventually the pump couldn't draw enough current, and the car would die. Once it stopped, and the wiring cooled down, it would be OK again for a while. Another thing that someone suggested to me at the time was to check the pick-up filter in the fuel tank. If it were sucking dirt, the filter could get clogged. Once the car stops, the dirt could tend to fall away from the filter and back into the tank. Then it could get enough fuel to restart, until again the filter became clogged. Also, check the ignition amplifier. It is mounted to a heatsink in the engine bay, and there is supposed to be some heatsink compound underneath it. Eventually the heatsink compound dries out, and the ignition amplifier can overheat. I guess maybe this could produce a similar failure to what is happening yours? Hope this helps...good luck! Fin
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