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IanMc

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About IanMc

  • Rank
    Commodore
  • Birthday 02/03/68

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Braintree, Essex
  • Name
    Ian Mc

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  1. I have considered that, but at the moment my thinking is just to get it running to see if any other problems become apparent. If all is well and the car does make it back to the road, then I can look at this again then. Thanks for the suggestion though Andy.
  2. Valve spring compressor

    That’s all great information - thanks lads, much appreciated. I will let you know how I get on!
  3. Valve spring compressor

    Thanks Wayne, appreciated. I managed to get one free using that method, but the others didn’t budge. Think I need to use a bigger hammer or have a second pair of hands so that I can get a better whack with the one I have. Not sure that anyone that has seen me using a hammer would be prepared to hold the socket in place for me though. I was thinking to myself if it would be possible to make a long pivot lever that is held at one end by the rocker stud nut(s) and then bears on the spring cap as you push down on the lever. Of course it would need to have a hole to be able to retrieve the collets, but that’s only a suitable sized hole and a magnet really - just a thought...
  4. Valve spring compressor

    What tool are you guys using to compress your valve springs? My old Draper one just isn't working, the springs seem to strong for it - it looks like this: Help and advice needed please. Thanks as always.
  5. That's great, thanks for your help Sam - much appreciated.
  6. Small update this morning as we are off out to the In-laws later, so early start to get my 'fix' - you know how it is The block face and piston crowns have been cleaned up, thankfully nothing nasty or unexpected was discovered. Then I started on the stripping of the head - removed the thermostat housing (easier said than done!), nuts and rockers removed, then pulled the hydraulic tappets. Just waiting for a friend to return the valve spring tool I let him borrow and I can get the 7 valves out that (hopefully) are not seized in the head. The problem child was left to soak last night in WD-40 (after angling the head to allow it to 'pool' around the guide to stem interface area).I had hoped for something to have happened overnight - it didn't.. Can anyone recommend a better penetrating fluid or mixture that might work here? Thanks in advance, have a good day all.
  7. Head now OFF!! Yes, thanks Mantaray I had remembered those two bolts. Herman then showed me a good leverage point and with the help of a long lever it 'popped'. The offending valve is clearly visible. Onwards and upwards now. Thanks to all!
  8. Hi Herman, Many thanks for the very fast reply. Yes I had remembered to remove those two bolts - but you post still made me doubt and I went out to double check But you leverage point was the life saver - I put a chucking great lever in there and 'pop' up it came - so THANK YOU!!! So here it is: the offending seized valve in all its glory. Now I can get stuck into sorting out the valve, decoking, regrinding all of the valves etc then rebuilding and hopefully get the old girl running again.... Thanks again Herman!
  9. Apologies for repeating a post that I have just placed in the 'Basic Technical Help' section - but this is part of my project, so I thought why not? As part of my mission to solve the reported 'valve problem' on my car I endeavored to remove the head this afternoon to further investigate (and fix) what appears to be a seized exhaust valve on cylinder number 2. I removed the carb, manifolds, front cam bolts etc etc and then out came the head bolts - all going smoothly until now... Basically the head is absolutely stuck solid, it wont budge at all. So I appeal to the far more knowledgeable than myself - what do I do now to get it off? I have tried: - a few subtle strategically placed blows with a wooden block via my claw hammer - but nothing. Should I step up to a club hammer? - placing a socket extension in the various ports on the manifold side and levering it up with an extension tube - no dice. I am worried about cracking the head if I get too aggressive with it. Help required please.
  10. As part of my mission to solve the reported 'valve problem' on my car I endeavored to remove the head this afternoon to further investigate (and fix) what appears to be a seized exhaust valve on cylinder number 2. I removed the carb, manifolds, front cam bolts etc etc and then out came the head bolts - all going smoothly until now... Basically the head is absolutely stuck solid, it wont budge at all. So I appeal to the far more knowledgeable than myself - what do I do now to get it off? I have tried: - a few subtle strategically placed blows with a wooden block via my claw hammer - but nothing. Should I step up to a club hammer? - placing a socket extension in the various ports on the manifold side and levering it up with an extension tube - no dice. I am worried about cracking the head if I get too aggressive with it. Help required please.
  11. To weld or not to weld?

    Pm sent Sir
  12. To weld or not to weld?

    Would you try to repair this or look for a replacement? Anyone got a spare? - happy to pay obviously. Thoughts and comments please:
  13. Thanks Herman, I had actually been think about this on and off during the day and decided to take the head off anyway. Its a great opportunity to do a full decoke at the same time. I have a workshop manual (and I did this about 25 years ago with my first Cav Coupe), so it doesn't hold any fears to be honest. Don't think I will get time this weekend, so it may turn into one of those 'bit at a time' evening jobs. Of course I will keep you posted. Agreed lol
  14. Rocker cover gauze 'filter'

    Great, thanks for that.
  15. What is the best way of cleaning the gauze filter in the top of the rocker cover? I can get mine out by bending the tabs, but wondered what people do with theirs. Can I clean it in Gunk, can you get replacements, do people leave it out, can I use something else? All help and comments appreciated.
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