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cam.in.head last won the day on September 26

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  1. cam.in.head

    Under bonnet sound insulation

    Hi Ian probably not needed realy as the bulkhead insulation does quite a good job but I would imagine something could be found that would fit dimension wise.a trip round a scrappies with a measure might reveal something suitable. It will obviously make SOME difference but wether it’s noticeable or not ?.it might make it quieter with oil filled engine mounts ? I did rubber bush the gearbox mounting crossmember and thought it seemed a bit quieter ? theres always the stick on stuff someone may have some recommendations. I
  2. Hi ian .you are seeing the end of the tunnel now and what a journey it’s been!. Im with you regards the aerial .my sporthatch has a roof aerial .fitted from new and thou it suits it and I’m used to it I would have much rather had a pull up wing top aerial. They make the car look older and better in my opinion but unless I ever have to have the roof painted it will have to stay there. similar sort of story with my viva.years ago when I got it there was no exterior mirror at all except a clip on door frame type.i found a pair of original door mirrors off a gls and fitted them. My mate had a Firenza with wingtop mirrors and they look so much better and I wished I had done that but now I had nice new holes in my doors so they had to stay !. its strange realy,some people like to make their car look newer than it is but I prefer to make it look older.(within reason !) you saw the pics of my other cav.when I built it I was originally going to go for a more modern green like krypton but my brother convinced me it wouldn’t suit it and I settled on cedar.an early 70’s colour which looks good to me . anyway happy tinkering mate
  3. Cant reply direct to your wanted post but if you can’t get the plug lead bracket you are after just let me know and il sort you one out. Il have one somewhere .if someone is already looking for one I won’t jump in front of them
  4. cam.in.head

    Tachometer not going above 2800 rpm

    Ok no worries. Still a strange one thou. One thing worth checking whilst the tacho is out although like I said I’ve never had any issues with any before is to make sure you have 12v to one of the three pin sockets ( sorry can’t remember which)in relation to body earth AND the 2nd pin. And that you have continuity between the remaining pin and the green oil lead. can remove mine to confirm pins if realy required but I’m sure you get what I mean. also the pin outs may actually be written on the tacho itself ? Probably +. - I. Or T ..?
  5. cam.in.head

    Tachometer not going above 2800 rpm

    Hi. So you have got another but the needle just goes round to max on its own ? Or goes up when you rev it and sticks ? If its the latter it just sounds like a stiff spot or maybee the needle is rubbing .?. It sounds like you are one of the very few who have had any sort of issue sith a tacho. Two bad ones after each other is certainly unusual in my experience. the tacho has a 12v feed and an earth(negative) and a signal pulse taken from the green wire .so theres not much realy thatcan go wrong.all supplied by the three pins that plug i to the dashboard. did you try the original for stiffness / freedom of manual movement ?
  6. cam.in.head

    Hello, greetings from North wales

    Yeah i agree with the above .nothing wrong at all in having it mot tested and im sure some insurers will eventually insist on it . besides an mot tester cannot fail it on something wrong if something isnt actually wrong as what would they tell you ? /show you ?. If a boot is split or a joint is worn etc you will be able. To see it for yourself.if an area has a hole then it has a hole. They cannot make a rust surrounded hole into sound metal so no issues there at all to me.
  7. That product above reccommended by peter evans is perfect for the job. If you get that all will be fine.if you decide to get something else make sure it is a windscreen SEALER designed for older vehicles with a rubber seal and not for bonding the newer type windows to frames.sure it will work but youl be lucky to ever get a window out again in one piece !. i would be surprised if the rubbers fit good enough everywhere to be used without any sealer at all and im sure a bead of sealer would have been used originally from new.mr mantasrme has been a lucky guy if hes never needed any and never had leaks.ive personally not been so lucky.so have always put a bead on the frame recess when putting a window in and then filled the entire void afterwards when window is in. ive never removed a cav window and not found any sealer in there. either way you should realy check all the seals afterwards for water entry as even a very small drip through a corner will eventually soak a floor and encourage damage to all your excellent work.
  8. cam.in.head

    Tachometer not going above 2800 rpm

    Should be plenty tachos around then .ive seen a few breaking ads on here. All manta b / ascona b/ cavalier mk1 ones interchangeable electrically .early up to about 82/83 orange later ones white etc. As I’m sure you know. nice to hear you’ve had car from new. Nothing better than knowing a cars full history. all the best
  9. cam.in.head

    Tachometer not going above 2800 rpm

    If rear of dash is working fine and engine is running fine then I can’t think of any other issues that would cause it. coil won’t matter . did it work originally and has just gone wrong recently ?
  10. cam.in.head

    Manta B 1.8s Brake Conversion Front

    As some say above nothing wrong with the original setup regarding discs but the later single piston calipers are a pain as they seize on the sliders.the early calipers with twin pistons were a much better idea and are a straight swap .(as a unit with correct pads,hose ,bolts etc ) but we’re a standard fit up to approx 1979 ish on most cars. there are also a few cars that had the ate sliding bracket style,single piston which were bullet proof but they’re rarer to find but do use the same hose and pads as yours. also if you do insist on upgrading to a type not originally fitted check with insurance first cos some don’t accept modified cars even if it’s a safety upgrade. Best ask first.
  11. cam.in.head

    Tachometer not going above 2800 rpm

    Hi. The fact that the engine itself runs fine and has no issues regarding rev limiting and acceleration points to a problem with the actual tacho itself.the tacho gets its signal as pulses from the green wire and intertpets that as a rev speed.it sounds as though either the needle itself is sticking or the unit is faulty. you will need to remove the instrument cover 'hood' and then the heater levers and light switch plugs to get access. the top will swing out to one side.you can removeit completely by unclipping the heater cables but you prob wont need to. once you are inside lift off the cover and the tacho is held in with a couple of srews and lifts out leaving all the rest in place. Check it for sticking or just pop another in to try. Should be plenty about,confirm correct type regarding colour of needle / typeface style .
  12. cam.in.head

    2.0 GTE Battery

    They should park up and be useable within 3 weeks easily if no problems but an alarm fitted can drain battery over a shorter period.any longer either disconnect battery or remove fuse 3
  13. cam.in.head

    Dash Light Fuse

    Yeah should only be a yellow one thats correct .. as ian says there are a lot of lights running from that fuse so plenty of chance for a short somewhere. one thing you can do if you cannot find any issues anywhere is to put a high wattage bulb on some leads and pop it in place of the fuse. Then go round and check if any lights are glowing.the ones that are glowing albeit very dimly will mean that the short is not on that line. eg if the front and rear lights are glowing then the short is not on the front or rear line etc. .you may be lucky depending on where the short is .if its near the fuse right at the begginning then no lights will glow but if its the number plate light for example it will be dead whereas other bulbs will glow dimly. Its a long shot but worth a try if you cannot find the fault. check wiring loom inside boot to lights and number plate lamp.check inside headlights for the sidelight connection.check under instrument cover hood,check behind radio / cig lighter light and clock( although i think cig lighter is from ignition feed rather thanlight switch) happy hunting
  14. cam.in.head

    A Series dipstick help

    Just remember thou that the proper cav/ manta engines had the dipstick go down a curved guide tube rather than the straight down entry of a 2.2 or 2.4?. Fine if you have fitted the correct tube..otherwise the reading will be off and the proper dipstick will be a loose fit in the hole. I’m sure you know what I mean . another way would be to fill the sump with the correct amount of oil ,assuming standard sump ?
  15. So long as the distortion is limited to the rear facing edge rather than the top and there are no high spots higher than the actual panel itself then it should skim over nicely and finish with a large sanding block .i once made a cavalier wing out of an ascona one and you couldnt tell the join even thou there was quite a bit of initial weld distortion. A far cry from some of my early wheelarch attempts where it looked like it had been riveted on ! It will be fine ,just make sure its well waterproofed/ sealed against inside outside damp penetration