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cam.in.head last won the day on March 4

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  1. Dont worry ian you will get there.welding is an acquired skill like many others and practice is the way forward.higher power settings may well penetrate better but blow through easier and low power has less chance of blowing through bit also less chance of penetrating and actually welding. My first welds years ago were like blobs and you could pull the patches back off with your hands!.keep trying on same thickness metal and experimenting with power and wire speed and technique until you are happy. Regarding replacing some bushes for poly bushes.this is a matter of personal preference.i would recommend definately using them for the front anti roll bar end post support ,those rubber ones have a hard life and dont last long but that’s it. like I say it’s MY preference but I won’t use them anywhere else. Others may disagree and that’s fine .obviously there are various grades of poly but people tend to fit firmer ones which can make the car rather harsh.cavs were designed to be a relatively soft cruiser and not a sports car so whilst fitting them may make the car handle a little better it does spoil them in my opinion.same applies to firmer grade springs and stiffer shocks. many years ago a friend of mine had a great mk1 that drove pretty nice. He mistakenly took it to Kwik fit fit for a tyre and they told him all his shocks were weak and needed replacing. (They were fairly new,standard gm items in perfect order)They replaced two tyres for him and all his shocks for some much firmer ones(99% of aftermarket non gm shocks seem to be firmer even basic spec boge or Sachs !)and told him he would notice a big difference !. He did and so did I.the car was now a horrible,firm,banging machine that had lost all its refinement.but yeah it would go around corners with hardly any roll !. this is my same reason for keeping the original bushes.gm bushes tend to be good quality anyway in my experience.it all depends on what you want the finished car to be like.as it was intended to be and nice and soft with a bit of roll and still pretty good handling or inprove handling and loose some comfort and refinement.
  2. Obviously with not seeing the pictures it’s hard to comment but I take it you now have the crossmember brace arm off the car but with the bolt still stuck in it?. A common scenario and always a problem but a darn sign better than it being stuck in the car chassis. you said the bolt is turning (not the metal sleeve in the bush?) so its obviously not seized into the sleeve so with lots of wd and twisting /pulling it should eventually come out. Make sure there is no lip on the end or any excess rust elsewhere on the bolt because I think it’s a smaller clearance in the bush than it is in the chassis. After reading your thread we all know you will get it out one way or another and other people, myself included also enjoy the challenge of things that don’t go to plan or need something making to do a particular job.all the fun of owning and working on a classic ! all the best
  3. In my experiance they can (and do) rust solid into either the chassis or the arm bush itself.this can be confirmed by the bolt head being totally solid or tuning and springing back with a rubbery feel.if your area is so badly rotten that it has gone through the outer chassis,inner strengthener and tube then cutting it out may well be the solution. if it has only seized into the bush then repated applications of wd plus tapping the bolt lenghthways and turning may well free it or else chop the bolt head off !. maybee ive been lucky over the years but ive never had one thats not been removeable from the chassis but have had several that have been unremoveable from the bush sleeve.i think the chassis hole has a bit more clearance . good luck mate and welcome to cav/ manta ownership common problems ! . once you replace the bolt,new or otherwise or other suspension bolts make sure they are well greased up for future removal.
  4. Headlight wiper blades for hatchback

    or if needs be you can just make some / repair your existing ones using a replacement rubber insert or one arm of a larger blade. last time i enquired the proper ones were stupidly expensive for a part that seems to not last long or if needs be you can just make some / repair your existing ones using a replacement rubber insert or one arm of a larger blade. last time i enquired the proper ones were stupidly expensive for a part that seems to not last long scratch that"...............ive just had a quick look on ebay and upon typing in. headlamp wiper blade there are loads of results that come up .some should be suitable and not that expensive.. i think last time i looked i typed in manta or carlton specifically only
  5. As many members on here will have no doubt done ,myself included many times in the past and learnt from my mistakes is when you cut out a rusted section,make sure you cut back to perfect sound metal and not just to metal with no holes thats just good enough to weld to. ive repaired bits before up to where i thought was good and found that a few years down the line the area around the repair is now rusted out.if you try your best to make sure you get all the rot out now then its much more likely to be a long lasting if not permanent repair.even the action of welding causes a surface rust to start immediately around it due to the heat.( think how rusty a burned out car looks straight after ?) and once you have repaired and ground down the area make sure you get a good coating of thick paint ,sealer ,wax etc on the back of it as well as just the front that you can see.this is where ive come unstuck many times and the area rusts out and you have to do the same repair again in a few years. When i do a section replacement nowadays anywhere i always cut back to perfect if poss and i use galvanised steel. Yes the edges will rust but the middle never will again!.(i know its risky because the fumes are poisonous but i grind the edges back to non galv steel to weld to.then after grinding and all heat is done i try to make the area fully waterproof (you cannot always make the weld fully done due to heat distortion or just the odd pinhole thst you can forget)i use jb weld or equivalent to seal it before any (porous) levelling filler is added.then finally i make sure i get as much paint poured,brushed or sprayed inside. i know it seems a bit more work then patching or just using undersealing but on something you want to last and keep its well worth the extra effort doing it right and only once. Remember rust is like mould,you leave any left or an enviroment for it to live and it will return? also please remeber that this is my way of thinking. Im not trying to tell you or anyone how to do stuff ,just sharing my experiences Cheers ian
  6. manta 2.0 gte rocker cover gasket

    it would be a cork one no doubt .a rubber one wont fit onto a standard pressed metal rocker cover. the rubber ones (or the cork ones)fit the aluminium cover such as a 2.2 or 2.4 and remomber if you ever need another they are not specific to the manta gte 2 litre.any 4 cyl cam in head engine with the pressed cover uses the same cork gasket so that means cav,manta,ascona 1.6,1.9,2.0 .rekord,etc.
  7. Mk1 Cavalier rear bumper

    got them.thankyou. your doing a great job there .the n/s suspension looks superb especially when comparing it with the other untouched side.the rust on the side of the footwell is pretty standard stuff and not realy as bad as it looks if you consider it as just 3 sides joined together!. template up the side cut back to good metal and replace and you are 1/3 there. etc.same goes for the front bit etc. you will come up with various little obstacles obviously but its. a relatively easy area to work on. its the chassis leg especially the inner part that gets a bit more tricky but nothing you cannot handle im sure.i did all mine with 18 or maybee 16 guage galvanised but thats my preferance and takes a bit more work to weld and the fumes are not good for you but should last longer. i think you will have a challenge if you decide to repair your existing wing thou!.it can be done but there are used replacements out there that would require less work.i suppose when you look at it its 3 main areas realy.the top edge/corner piece,the lower area to sill,and the front to the valance but it will be a good test to your skillls and patience ! good luck with it all and thanks again for the pics
  8. Mk1 Cavalier rear bumper

    no worries ian. also if you get chance and dont mind send us a few pics of how you are getting on. cheers. chris.
  9. Mk1 Cavalier rear bumper

    ive had a look in the gm parts book and it lists the same part number for bare bumper and same for insert but different bracket numbers. but thats for cavalier. manta and later plastic bumpers may well be different thou
  10. Mk1 Cavalier rear bumper

    saloon and coupe are the same yes. hatch is the same bumper but with different brackets.this only aplies to cavs as i think some chrome manta ones had the number plate recess on the top rather than below.(cant just turn them over cos the overrider slots would be on top then too ! please forgive me if im wrong here cos ive only ever owned one actual chrome bumpered manta .everything else has been cavs
  11. When the cars get to this age thay will all be in various states of corrosion depending on the lives they have lived. When only a few years old it was not uncommon to see rusted out wing tops and the chassis rails starting to go. to repair yours depends on its state at the moment. If i were you i would remove the chassis bolt(it may well be stuck!)and if the corrosion is on the inner piece of chassis i would remove that lower bracing arm completely for much better access.its then a case of removing the outer skin depending on its severity by your method of choice.chisel or small grinder with cutting disc would be my way.then with outer skin removed where necessary you can see whats left of the inner reinforcing section.you may find that its gone or starting to go on top too inside the car under the black soundproofing.they usually do but again it depends how your car has survived the years. its good that the jacking point is ok on yours as they usually rot on its middle and side bits as well as on top into the car . it sounds like yours is not too bad but i cant see your pictures anyway !.
  12. Hi ian. Concentrating on that one corner of the car first you will pretty much always find corrosion on the bottom of the a panel side section where it meets the front footwell and lower piece right up to the jacking point.common areas on all b series cars.there may be some replica panels about but theyre not too difficult to make up anyway. check the chassis section/swan neck thoroughly too as they are multilayered and nearly always showing signs of either bad corrosion, or top layer swelling or covered with previous bad repair patches( around the bolt area and under and round the inside especially). if you find that they are good with only minimal rust now is the time to remove any bad bits and repair now as they WILL get worse. Repair as required and make sure they are well protected afterwards with the sealant/paint/rustproofing of your personal choice. hinges are welded further into the panel and the a pillar wraps over them .they can also attract rust. basically everywhere you now see has been known to rust on these cars,a pillar,sides,jacking point,floor,chassis legs,inner wing tops,inner wing fronts around headlamps,front piece section holding inicator lamp,front valance and wing mounting tabs,and lastly but not least the battery tray. the outer wing is usually the last thing to worry about as years ago they could be had new/pattern for £27.but now its either stupid prices new ,sh replacement with some work or a repair on your existing one. most owners on here who have worked on these cars for many years myself included will have repaired all these areas. Its all doable with time and patience.hopefully yours will not have all the aforementioned rusty bits but unless you arevery lucky it will have some. Protect well afterwards to prevent future problems. Cheers ian . Happy tinkering mate
  13. Opel manta gte boot struts

    thanks for that advice. when i first got mine in 86 the hatch lifted great but it had no rear wash wipe fitted.once i fitted a wipe kit (extra weight !) it still opened but not as fast. then a few years later when i did some repairs around the glass channel and had it painted it was much slower to lift .again due to the extra weight. i know its not much but metal plus weld plus filler plus paint all adds up !. eventually as the struts became weak i doubled up on one side and this has worked great and still does but il have a look for some corsa struts.
  14. No worries mate. If you get the pic from snowy to compare thats fine. if not feel free to email me a pic of yours to look at. The carb choke vac unit frequently have leaking diagragms so dont be surprised if it does. They used a similar unit on lots of vauxhall / opels of the era and although some are slightly different thry can be modded to interchange. Some even had manual choke brakets but that means altering some linkages too if you did.
  15. I cant view any pictures but the vac pipe from the distributor goes on the side of the carb pointing straight out towards the wing and the little vac pipe from the carb choke pull off diagragm goes to the stub at the bottom of the carb,angled on some models.The other little stub on the manifold under the carb is for the rocker cover thin front breather. This will usually be blocked up and is only very small anyway so be carefull not to open it up if cleaning it with a sharp object such as a twist drill. There are some pictures on google images if needs be !