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cam.in.head last won the day on December 25 2017

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  1. also ian to prevent any shorting of wires i would get rid of that engine earth strap thst someone has put on near the alternator. it belongs on the complete other side of the engine. it bolts to engine at bottom of block/side using m8 short bolt and under the chassis leg . whoever had that car before certainly had someone fiddle about with it !
  2. hi ian. the 2 spade side connector that plugs into the side should have a blue/ white wire connection to IND and the other wire (originally a red with black covering) goes to the main alternator terminal from the BAT terminal.see pictures in email . cheers.
  3. you are more than welcome ian makes you wonder who actualy changed the rectifier years ago and why they didnt remove the linking strip inside especialy when it actualy had nowhere to connect to.cant see it being a repair shop but you never know. ive seen brand new motors on installations still with links in that shouldnt be there so nothing surprises me. ok . the ebay one looks a good deal .keep us posted. all the best to you and thanks to othermembers comments too . cheers....
  4. Im just passing on my own knowledge to help a fellow enthusiast out. And im only a forum member myself albeit a fair few years worth. A while back someone commented /complained on why they had to pay a membership fee whereas non members can come on here and view nearly the same as fully paid up members.well i used to be a fully paid up member but didnt personally see any benefit further to me anyway.this is a car club AND forum for manta /cav enthusiasts which i certainly am.if the forum had been restricted to only paid up members i for one would not have been on here now paying to give advice !. Not receive!. my only gripe on here now is that the forum does seem to have slowed down immensely in terms of posting etc recently i think due to facebook versions of the forum. Its a pity realy because were not all facebook fans . Im also on the omega forum and that seems to be non facebook infested yet but theres time !
  5. I suppose it started with a kind of curiosity. Im an electric motor ,panel man by trade so i was willing to have a look and get to understand how they work which is actually pretty simple .ive had cars in the past with dim glowing ign lights and never realy knew what actual part was causing it.but when you open up an alternator with a glowing light and find a bad diode,replace it and then re assemble and everything is now ok you start to get more interested.well i do anyway !.trouble is ,its kinda addictive !
  6. Hi ian so it sound like the rectifier is knackered too. Probably caused by the link wire shorting on something. So basically you have an alternator that needs 1 bearing,a rectifier block(different styles available that have the mounting holes in different place at the positive side so ensure you get the right one),a regulator and a trio .if it were me i would consider the one on ebay as its a good price and supposedly reconditioned. ( you could always open it up and check it all out !) or at least see what you can get the parts for. Not used that site myself.i tend to find everything i need on ebay. Others may disagree !
  7. The diode trio is strange . It should test for circuit one way and not the other so not 100% sure about the 001 reading.should be ok.examine it closely.its not cracked is it ,hard to tell from picture?. Also when you measured the main rectifier you did try both halves both ways didnt you .you only mention top half as giving a reading one way and bottom half the other .if you didnt then just make sure that the positive and the negative parts of the rectifier only work in one direction and not the other. Swapping leads to confirm one way only. I think you know what i mean. So it sounds like you have got away with just needing a regulator(yes the white unit with 2 spades and 3 screws. )There are different versions available with the spades pointing different ways so make sure you get the right one.. And maybee a trio? And make sure you remove and bin the internal link connector that some nutter left inside ! basically what you have just done today is check that the coils are insulated from the body and compared resistances.you have also confirmed one way diode function. Lots of people couldnt be bothered to do all this but you and me obviously do.there are ways of checking the regulator but ive never bothered myself and after all they are cheap enough and worth changing .you used to be able to buy overhaul kits that had regulator,brushes and bearings in
  8. hi ian. that all sounds good. the other test i meant was put the meter on 200 ohms and test touching each slipring .the reading should be about 3.0 give or take. .mine reads that . the other readings are similar to mine at 0.8 so all looks good so far. the diode trio (little orange thing )is tested by putting the meter in the diode test position. (bottom right of dial ,little arrow and line type symbol !. ) put one meter lead on the long strip connector and try the other to all 3 little pins in turn.you will get 3 non circuits through it..now swap the meter leads and you will get 3 definate circuits through it of approx .400 to .900 . basically proving it works as a one way device only. now test the big silver diode block the same way.ie no circuit between the top half of the unit(negative ) and either 3 centre studs and a circuit if leads are reversed..the same idea but opposite with the lower half of the unit (positive)to the 3 studs. you may need to press on hard as the connections can be dirty or corroded and give a false reading..there should be no readings between any of the pins to each other. now examine the brushes .the top one that i can see looks fine .cannot see the other but if its similar all should be ok. so the only thing left which is definately suspect is the regulator. yours looks burnt and i would be definately replacing that . so if all the tests are ok then you will need a regulator and a bearing. (other roller besring can be changed if totally u/s but thry are usually ok and respond to a clean and regreasing. good luck mate . let me know how you get on. cheers.
  9. hi ian. right you are. il guide you through it in easy stages.i will explain it as detailed as i can .please go through each bit at a time. put you meter on the ohms range (20k should be ok )idealy a proper earth tester should be used but at 12-14volt any faults will be obvious anyway. take the rotating centre piece and with some fine emery clean up the two copper sliprings to get a good connection. put the meter on any one of these and make sure there is NO reading to the centre shaft or any other metal part of it. then put the meter on the 200 ohm range and measure the resistance on the two copper sliprings.you should have a reading. make a note. hopefully rotor will test ok. next bit clean the 3 stator wire lugs and test the resistance between them in every order(ie 1 to 2 ,then 2 to 3 ,then 1 to 3)all should be very close to each other .take a note of the readings....Now put the meter back on the 20k range and test one of the 3 stator leads to its metal body. NO reading should be found.... hopefully all ok so far .thats the windings parts all checked out. obviously have look around for any obvious burnt wires but hopefully all will be well. you have mentioned the bearing is rough. they usually are ......£3 - £5 on ebay .try to go for a 2rs rubber shielded type if pos as they keep the water out better. some had them as original,others only had a metal shielded type in. report back after this lot .cheers isn
  10. hi ian. yes its a 45amp. they usually are but you never know whats been changed in the past. ok. once you get yours fully apart well go through it and see what it needs. otherwise if there are too many faults then replacement might be the best bet. there is one on ebay at the moment which is correct and supposedly reconditioned if needs be. but im sure you would like to do your own if pos for the experience and satisfaction. i will await your disasembly. ..cheers .... ps il send a view of the ebay page thats on at the moment in case
  11. just confirm if you can please that yours is still the original 45 a type and i will dismantle the same to check . cheers ian.( it is written on the side !)
  12. no worries ian. dont worry though an alternator isnt that complicated .its basically stator coils going to a rectifier to make dc.then a voltage regulator to regulate the voltage to the rotating field..if it all is knackered i can sort you one but i think you will prefer to have an alternator that you have built yourself on the car? let me know when you are ready to test and il guide you through it. see ya mate
  13. hi ian. yes thats fine. what i will do is pull one of mine apart tommorow so we can compare readings and wel see whats ok and what isnt. first you need to undo the 3 wires from the stator then it will lift out. then remove the orange diode trio. then undo the screws holding the burnt regulator in place and remove along with the brushes and 2 springs then seeing as how it may be damaged you might as well remove the big rectifier block from the back casing. VERYIMPORTANT note which screws come from where and which screws have metal washers on and which ones have nylon insulators on them. il await your message as to when you are ready. cheers ian. happy tinkering mate. i assume it wont be tonight !
  14. cheers ian. then the fun begins !
  15. basically that internal metal strip shouldnt be there. its for the wrong alternator .it wasnt connected to anything cos theres nothing for it to connect to. its blown big style and may or may not have damaged other stuff. not to worry thou. im perfectly happy to help you through it so no worries my end. to test the parts you will need a test meter with the beeper/diode test function basically that internal metal strip shouldnt be there. its for the wrong alternator .it wasnt connected to anything cos theres nothing for it to connect to. its blown big style and may or may not have damaged other stuff. not to worry thou. im perfectly happy to help you through it so no worries my end. to test the parts you will need a test meter with the beeper/diode test function