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biffy1984 last won the day on November 20 2016

biffy1984 had the most liked content!

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About biffy1984

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  • Birthday 08/01/1984

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    Peter Robertson

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  1. Donut problem

    Cool, I'll send you a PM
  2. Donut problem

    Cheers, might try them for one for the future. Can't remember who I got this one from, I'm sure it was from someone off the forum but it was a good few years ago now...
  3. Club stand for Retro Rides Aug 19th, Shelsley Walsh Hill

    Has anyone booked a stand for the omoc this year? I'll be coming so wouldn't mind a spot with the other mantas if possible??
  4. Donut problem

    Yeah I bent them over afterwards but it still managed to work it's way out. As I said the rubber was so hard with hardly any flex at all and with the prop lying at such an angle with it being low. Fitted the old rubber tonight which is much more flexible and all seems good again.
  5. Axle rebuild info

    Funny as both axles I've stripped had shims behind the inner bearing carrier so I just assumed they were meant to be there. It also says in the Opel workshop manual to adjust your pinion height by adding/removing the appropriate number of shims behind the inner bearing carrier.
  6. Donut problem

    Thanks Snowy, I've read that thread and searched the forum for similar problems but can't find any like this. It's like the donut is so hard it can't flex therefore pulling it out of the housing. Think I'll throw the old one back in tonight and see what happens. I'm also thinking the angle the propshaft is running at is not so good with the car being so low, there's a thread where Luke (399road) had altered his mounting so the prop is running at less of an angle which I think I may well have to do if I want to keep this hard donut in....
  7. Donut problem

    After rebuilding my back axle and all went well, done about 80 miles and seems good till this morning, when I eased off coming to work there was a violent scraping sound Had a look on the lift and the donut has come out at the top and the shaft is sitting way down in the carrier. I replaced the donut and bearing with a new Firstline part and i found it hell of a hard, had a right prick of a job getting it to sit in the housing properly. Are these supposed to be like really hard? As in hardly any flex at all? Put the old soft donut back in perhaps??
  8. Axle rebuild info

    This is the kit I got https://www.bearingkits.co.uk/details.asp?ID=100 Everything in it except pinion shims
  9. Axle rebuild info

    I would do an axle build thread but have maxed out my picture attachments on the forum and for some stupid reason I can't seem to delete any to free up space so no more pics from me I'm afraid It's been grumbling and pissing me off for years, stripped it tonight to find the pinion has been shimmed too far back for the teeth have been coming in contact with the diff casing and chewed the ends of the pinion teeth....oops!! Looks like a complicated and time consuming task to rebuild it properly but I have the full kit of new bearings/shims/crush washer/donut/torque tube bearing etc so I'll take my time when setting it all up and hopefully I'll not have to open it up again for a very long time
  10. Axle rebuild info

    Does anyone have an Opel workshop manual with axle rebuild info i.e. Setting up pinion preload/torque settings etc? Going to get the axle on the bench this week so any info would be appreciated
  11. Cheap enough for someone needing the 1800 bits...
  12. Colour change vote...

    If you're not going to sell it then paint it any colour you want, if you think you may sell at some point it'll be worth more being the original colour...
  13. Brakes binding

    Update on this lads, new master cylinder fitted and problem solved thankfully so must of been a sticky return spring or seal, I'll maybe take the old one apart for a look sometime. Cheers for the suggestions
  14. Brakes binding

    Been looking at this again and yeah there would be around 6mm of free play with the pedal released and the servo piston fully returns every time. It would seem the more you work the brakes the more they bind, but pumping the pedal will release them. Think I'll try another master cylinder and see from there. I'm assuming what I'm describing isn't a common problem then?
  15. Manta Coupe resto no.2

    The original attachment for the louvre is a poxy steel rod down the middle so mounted on a small interior mirror sized pad top and bottom and 2 small half turn plastic screws in each bottom corner onto even smaller pads stuck to the glass. I didn't trust the original fixings so double sided tape full length top and down both sides is imho a far better fix. I've taken the louvre off now anyway as I've decided I don't like it this week there was a cheap louvre on eBay.de last time I looked.... Just did the same as you with the bumpstops, cut the cone short, piece of pipe and welded the ends shut with a hole up the middle for holding the rubber. I have a quaife atb diff, gear type. Personally I don't like it, it's very unpredictable in the wet and once it goes you struggle to get it back! It's good for doughnuts and burnouts but that's about it!! I glued the vents in with gorilla glue first then used some plastic bumper filler to smooth them into the bonnet, I thought it would flex a little more than normal body filler. So now 2 years on you can see a line where I cut the steel which couldn't be seen before but can't really expect anything else as filler is always liable to shrink a bit, especially with the heat off the engine. Still miles better than a fibreglass bonnet