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  1. 10 points
    ENGINES !!!!! ARGHHHHHHHH! Well its been a busy winter in my camp this year! I've had a few issues, and thanks to some of the members its all going good for now! Here’s what has been happening and I hope you enjoy this mega Manta update. ____________________________________________________ I started off the winter on a bit of a downer actually. I was hoping to finish the car to take it away to the Gower for my anniversary in October, but the Engine that I rebuilt just using new seals was still pulling in oil past the seals and down the guides. I was hoping that the cleaned up and rebuilt lump would last a couple of years but unfortunately this wasn’t going to be the case. She ran sweet for about 500 miles, and then started to smoke a little bit on hard acceleration and I knew that the prognosis of this was not going to be good. After about another 100 miles it was smoking on start-up, not lots but enough that I didn’t like it! To top it all off on her last outing the heater matrix decided give out and started to turn the interior into a Swedish sauna with a pinhole in the lower matrix body feeding little wafts of smoke up through the windscreen vents. That my friends was enough!!! I placed her in the garage and stopped to think and sulked a lot! A bit depressed and a bit disheartened I thought that I would put up a parts request on the forum for a good 2.0E engine, also put feelers out for engine rebuild advice of which I got plenty. December came and went, but in January I had a message from @Mantacol asking me if I was still in the market for a good low mileage engine as he had a 58,000 miler out of an exclusive that he had up for grabs. He said it’s been sat for about for a few years, but it was a great engine when he removed it. Colin lives about 200 miles away from me, but it sounded to good to be true a 58,000 miler!!! We settled on a price and then my wife and daughter and I set out for the journey up to north Wales. Colin and his Wife were really lovely and he showed me his/her/their (you will have to inform me on that one Colin) 400R which is really looking the part. I made a frame out of 75mmx75mm timber to hold the engine securely in the trailer for the journey back so it wasn't rolling around. The engine apart from being covered in dirt and crud was all there, complete with inlet and exhaust manifold, injectors, throttle body dizzy, so I knew that is not been messed around with. The sump was off and the bores looked unmarked and clean and shiney like they do after a few miles. On removal of the manifolds there was no evidance oil staining on the exhaust guides or in the inlets. Even engines that have been left for a while can still show evidence of these faults that can indicate worn guides. The first job was to remove the water pump. The water pump had seized up solid , but this didn’t matter as I already had a one to go on that was on my original engine. Although I know this is not good practice it had only done about 600 miles so I thought I would use it. After spraying a can of WD-40 on the bolts I managed to remove them. I’m sure this was the original water pump as these bolts felt like they had never been removed. I always take extra care with these bolts as if you dont you can end up taking the threads out with the bolt! Behind the pump lay corrosion but this soon cleaned off and after I gave the engine a good wash and brush down with white spirit things were starting to look a lot more like it! After the wash and dry out of the engine every thread in the water pump housing was cleaned out. Lucky I had some extended taps to do the threads in the block that run through the front timing casing. I cant recommend doing this enough as the steel bolts corrode quickly against the alloy and create lots of white dust which block the threads up giving false torque readings. It can also restrict the depth that the bolts go in, and in some cases strip threads giving you all sorts of problems with leaking water pumps. After I had bunged everything up it was to work with the grinder with a rotary wire brush on the cast iron only. I love this tool as it cleans the pours of the cast iron and makes it all nice and new looking. After the engine is made dirt free, any threads were cleaned out with the correct tap, and then I masked up and sprayed to match the engine that was to come out of the Manta. While the engine was out I decided that as she had been stood for a while it might be a good shout to give the lifters a once over. And im glad I did. They were solid with tar and only 3 of them had any movement in the head of the lifter at all. It took me nearly 4 hours to disassemble them. The internal piston on most of them was gummed into the lifter so bad that even soaking them in brake cleaner did nothing. Using the air tools to blow through the tiny oil gallery in the side of the lifter helped to work it free. All the lifters were completely stripped, checked and rebuilt and operated as they should. The removal and insertion of the engine was as always very straight forward, but fortunately I managed to get hold of a brand new original GM stamped clutch plate for the GT/E so that went in as well. After I connected every up watered and oiled her, I primed the oil system by using a tool I have made to go into the oil pump drive socket. I place it in a power drill at a moderate speed and keep going until oil starts coming out of the 8th lifter and running down the slope by the oil return pipe at the back of the head. Everything in the engine had already received a coating of oil cam, camchain, crank, bearings, bores Etc. as the sump had been off the engine, and I had removed the cam covers to clean and lube everything. THE START UP She started first time. Ran a little lumpy as they do for about 10 seconds and then ran fine. There was a little smoke coming from the exhaust, but I wasn’t worried at this stage as everything had just been oiled up and this was expected. I got her up to temperature and shut her down and removed a plug and there it was..... Oil. I also had oil in the inlet manifold, quite a lot of it as well. The 2.2 rocker cover looks great, but even after cleaning out the mesh in the rocker cover I was still getting the oil in the inlet manifold and it was sucking down the engine breather pipe. I decided that I will go back to the standard rocker cover as the breather exit is very high, in fact it’s on it's own little box on top of the rocker cover, compared to the 2.2 one which exits from the side of the cover quite low down. After cleaning up and spraying up the standard cover and fitting, I still had this problem. After chatting with @mantasrmehe reminded me to clean out the oil breather gauze in the rocker cover as this condenses the oil. I removed them from both ends of the cover and they looked like they had been baked in tar. Once these had been cleaned and I had cleaned as much oil as possible from the manifold out I had no more oil in the manifold!…… But I still had oily plugs. ARGHH! @H-400 pipes up here and tells me that it’s probably the valve stem oil seals, but first to check out the compression. I had a old compression tester so I screwed it in and each cylinder was making 170PSI, more importantly as David said they were all the same. This was great news as this proves that the bottom end is good so I must be sucking oil down the guides!! AGAIN! At 58,000 miles I dont think the guides should be that worn. There was hardly any sludge in the engine or around the top of the head, so taking onboard all the advice I have been given I surmised (and prayed) that it must just be the valve stem seals. I made a tool to compress the valve spring using a old rocker. I had to cut this out with a 1mm disk cutter blade as these little suckers are very hard. With the piston up to near TDC and 2M of clean braided ratchet strap cable poked down the plug hole, I backed off the rockers on number 1 and brought the engine up towards TDC until I could feel resistance. I proceeded to remove the inlet valve using my tool and once the collets had been removed and the spring out, I could gain access to the seal. I gently prised the seal off with a flat blade screwdriver and removed it and it was like concrete. The “rubber” was as hard a a Bic biro pen. The seal you could waggle on the stem where it had shrunk due to no oil and lack of use. If you look at the image of the two seals together you can see the size difference of the inner hole. Although the stem fitting hole on the new one is smaller the inner hole on the new seal is the correct size as it slips down the valve nicely. The seal did not look worn or misshaped but it had just dried out. At this point I could have jumped for joy, as this must be the issue. After chatting with Herman I wanted to get hold of the Victor Reinz style seals with a spring around the stem hole. These seals are far superior to the standard ones as they also incorporate a metal body. Unfortunately the only place to get them from is Germany, so I waited a week for them to arrive. New exhaust seals were also ordered as the old ones had stretched and were slipping up and the valve stem. Replacement of the seals went like a dream. But before I ran the nice new seals down the valves and chaffed them up on the sharp edges I made some seal protectors using heat shrink tubing over the valves as a sleeve was not sent with the seals. These tubes slip nicely off the valve after the seal has been placed on the guide. Just for reference my method for the exhaust guide seal replacement is : First, clean everything. (1) Turn the Rotorcap upside down and fill with oil and put it on. (2) Place on the valve and spring and spring retainer cap and shroud (3) Compress the spring (4) Oil your valve stem and place on your seal protector (5) carefully place the seal over the seal protector and push it virtually to the end of the protector. (6) lift the seal protector slightly until the seal groove is uncovered (7) Gently push the seal off the end of the protector into the groove using something like a WD-40 red tube. You may have to wiggle the spring retainer cap slightly. (8) Pop the collets back in (9) gently unscrew the rocker, making sure everything is nicely in place. This I found is the best way. Once everything has been reassembled and valve adjustments made I started her up ran her, and although I didn’t have any oil any more, my plugs were a little sooty. After testing the ECU temperature sensor (that checked out OK) I found that the previous owner of air flow meter had turned the airscrew right in. I plugged in a Gunson’s Colortune into number 1 plug and turned the air mixture screw out ¼ of a turn at a time and after 1 whole turn out the Colortune went blue. This is now what my plugs look like ! All 4 of them. No oil, and all the perfect colour. So I figure the moral of this update is this. Without this club and this forum I would have been lost. I wouldn’t have had a replacement engine, and I wouldn't have had the help and support to put this engine back into first class working order. So thanks go to Mantacol for the engine (Cheers buddy I owe you one) H-400 & mantasrme for the technical reference / guidance and encouragement Next update making a boot carpet for a coupe!
  2. 3 points
  3. 2 points
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  4. 2 points
    Thanks Snowy, top man. When I got the car nothing here was connected, so I was simply using a process of elimination. All help greatly appreciated! Small time filling update from earlier. Managed to remove the front bumper with ease. I put some penetrating fluid on all six bolts this morning and they all came out like they had been screwed in yesterday... I like the easy wins!
  5. 2 points
    It's probably great fun to drive and like you say a good price considering what will have been spent. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder....I'm sure it will find a good home soon.
  6. 2 points
    That would also make a great write up for the club mag.......If you still have it all on your PC, email it over to Alan or me, Please.
  7. 2 points
    Great news, glad you got her all sorted. Some people still morn about the £25 membership fee, but I'm sure you feel that your £25 was well spent. This is a great forum with very helpful members and worth £25 of anybody money.
  8. 2 points
    Hi there H11poc (heck of a username) I too am proud owner of a recent purchase being a Monaco Blue Irmscher Exclusive D plate Hatch. I always used to slate the old CiH lump in these cars "BUT" always maintained the atitude that they are bulletproof, I started mine up and it ran after about 12 or 14 years of non running and it runs,,,,, Lovely simple mechanics, just look out for the rot on these mate, my first later model Manta I've owned is this, I'm more used to the early pre 1980 'B' series. I've spent so many hours repairing (Welding) shite up on this hatch that I've never had to in the past. But all well worth it when done, enjoy.
  9. 2 points
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  10. 2 points
    Thanks for your help and advice guys, much appreciated. I actually received an exhaust downpipe gasket with the complete head set that I bought when I did the engine work a while back. However, your comments did make me check - its a perfect fit. A bit more work tonight with the drill and ta dah!: Another small step forwards... Have a good evening everyone.
  11. 2 points
    I thought it was. Post from nuttynick 2011
  12. 1 point
    Looks really nice, I'd be tempted to get the bodywork sorted around the screen if I was the seller and wanting top dollar.... although there is no way I'd be selling if that was mine
  13. 1 point
    Just joined the club for the second time. After saying to myself no more Manta's, I am on the hunt again. I have owned three in total, three Calibra's and a Astra coupe. The first E950 CMO, black coupe brought for £500 in 1998. The second was back in 2002-03, when I brought A666 MFC from Tony in Oxford. The third was rather special, having only covered 18,000 miles from new. I brought it in 2007, and sold it to my dad who never had the time to use it as he had to many other toys. The time came in 2017 to being forced to sell, and now its in better hands as its in proper storage and being cared for as it should. I am now in a position to purchase and store one properly, so if anyone has a mint GT/E hatch for sale or know of one, please give me a shout. Hope to meet you all at some shows.
  14. 1 point
    ....and again: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-MANTA-CLASSIC-CAR-HATCH-BACK-2000-CC-GTE-1983-A-REG-ICONIC-80S-MOTORING/323219034408?hash=item4b415b1128:g:ZIQAAOSwfshayfjH Still a bit pricier than the norm (say £4500) and more so given it needs a couple of repairs.
  15. 1 point
    I stopped to give way to it & I just couldn't click what it was for a minute, just sat there with my mouth open catching flies.....
  16. 1 point
    DIdn't see the reg was actually shocked to see a Manta driving through the tiny village where I live, anyome on here? Belthorn is on the outskirts of Blackburn in Lancashire by the way..
  17. 1 point
    Way back in the day, i got a kit made, no more expensive than any clutch kit, pressure, friction, and release, it was for a redtop to 1.8 box. I brought them, a 1.8 friction plate, gsi 1.6v friction plate, gsi pressure plate, and 1.8 release. Was 12 on a sat, 10 mins later i was on my way, with a full kit! https://www.yelp.co.uk/biz/clarke-bros-auto-factors-lisburn Im sure they post, and they are clutch anoraks, if they dont have it, no body will, and they may just make it, they are old school and will possibly reline clutch plates. Worth a try!
  18. 1 point
    Good job crazy man, crack on while the sun shines (that's about another 8 minutes)
  19. 1 point
    Progress has been a bit slow this week due to other bits and pieces to do around the house, but up early this morning and made some progress. With the newly paint manifolds all dry I refitted (the also painted) warm air take off tin for the air filter housing. Then made sure that the block and manifold faces were nice and clean before using a new gasket and bolting the manifolds back on. Unfortunately it looks like I must have knocked the round tip of the coolant temperature sensor off while removing the manifolds from the engine bay, so had to order a new one of those - oh well, thats me, Mr Clumsy lol Next got the vacuum connections and coolant hose all laid out and back on again. Refitted the carb and associated linkages etc. Just waiting for the new coolant sensor to arrive, then I can button up the top of drivers side of the engine bay. Then it will be back off underneath to see what needs rectification and/or undersealing before the used downpipe and new center and tail pipe boxes can be fitted. This is all being done while I am waiting for my used brake backing discs to arrive, then the discs with new bearings can go back on and the car will be mobile again. Small steps again, but at this time they are all forward... fingers crossed that continues.
  20. 1 point
    Yeah right, engine is still seized, currently soaking in diesel. No rush.
  21. 1 point
    I've got one on it's way from Germany now, thanks for the replies.
  22. 1 point
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  23. 1 point
    Hi all, I will be taking ownership of a manta gte exclusive hatchback later this week. Body is actually superb for the year and is complete. I will need to change water pump but will also rebuild engine as it’s not been on the road for a while , put in a new clutch and so on. It has an irmscher steering wheel which I hope was standard equipment. It is on a D registration plate and I will upload pictures and full details when it arrives. i am hoping the engine rebuild is as simple as I remembered for these cih engines . paul
  24. 1 point
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Great stuff, i can feel a use for this coming on! maybe, it would be great in the magazine, could you add tap and dye size used for handyness? Also supplier list for seals would be handy, did you inspect lower internals of block at any time?
  27. 1 point
    Keeper for now, corner of the workshop and sheeted over till I finish the other one.
  28. 1 point
    What a write up that is. BRILLIANT. even a school kid could follow it. By the way do way give OSCARS in this club?
  29. 1 point
    Great write up, thanks for taking the time to do that. Very interesting and handy to know. Enjoy the summer.
  30. 1 point
    Can i Have my Genuine Irmscher GTE Exclusive Hatch on the register please Mick.... Sounds so much better than I have a modded old 'B' is anyone interested ? lol Fcuk me how times change
  31. 1 point
    Ye was a bargain for me wehayyy viewed on Saturday and it’s no where near as bad as it looks in the pictures and he’s got a lot of spares as well, collecting it next week.
  32. 1 point
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  33. 1 point
    As far as I know contact with said martin was done via lepo5 (club member).. still maybe?..not to sure about how much this Martin chap produces,goes without saying the arches,i would say at least you may have to get the rallytech bonnet,which is rated,would not worry about the airdam as your building a 400R. Also can I just ask..are you doing this conversion to a hatch...,or is your username a bit misleading in that respsect,... good luck with your project nonetheless.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Patience and time sort a lot of things out. Nice work there, great thread (no pun intended ) you are building up on the forum.
  36. 1 point
    I've never heard it called that before!
  37. 1 point
    your probably looking at £900 to £1000,but I wouldn't expect too much change out of that,the martin kit is generally regarded in club circles as the absoulute dogs wotsits and that's down to the fact he has the original irmscher moulds. Rallytech are held in high regard aswell,apart from these two forget about anyone else you come across mate.
  38. 1 point
    Also a good company on ebay called Graphics4classics. used them a lot and great to deal with
  39. 1 point
    I'm using stainless with split washers and never had a problem. Can't remember if I've used hex or cap heads as its been a while since I've seen them!
  40. 1 point
    Agreed it looks like a potential good hatch with a genuine reason for a sale........................ However i would have spent a bit of time detailing up that engine bay before taking a pic to try to present the car better. The current owner says he has seen recent Manta sales go through at £7K - £8K but that was for coupes. Lots of hatches recently & currently for sale in similar condition & they seem to reach between £4K - £5K in genuine auction sales. I am not trying to talk down the price of Hatch Mantas the market dictates the price, maybe the improving weather & the fact that the "show season " has started will raise demand a bit.
  41. 1 point
    YES! But Ian doesn't think they will match his wallet!!
  42. 1 point
    To put the lower balljoint nut on(or any balljoint nut for that matter)you put a suitable spacer under the nut ,i use a ring spanner ,and use it to take up the gap on the nut before it gets to the self locking bit.you then can pull the taper into the joint good and firm and tight. Then remove nut and spacer spanner and carefully fit the nut properly. removing is more tricky.plenty of wd on the nut and dont allow it to become tight or once the taper slips if it does you will have a bugger of a job getting the nut off a spinning joint and may need to cut nut off.not so bad on a lower joint as you can always try a jack under it but annoying when it happens to a top one or track rod end !
  43. 1 point
    Hi There Just got my first Ascona B 2 door 1977. Always wanted a manta or ascona, there are loads over here.. Goint to be my project...Needs some welding lol. Seems have either an 1.8 or 2.0 ohc engine. It' has injection. Car is lhd hand drive and has an issue with accelerator not springing back. Would anyone be able to tell me what cable I can use? Think it' the throttle cable that's causing the issue, throttle pedal spring is ok but cable is sticking in the cable sheet, also looks a bit long.injector is on the lhs as you look at engine. Any help would be great. Thx Si.... Ps.. live in finland but I am english..
  44. 1 point
    I know this Manta well, the front wing was replaced with a secondhand one supplied from my stock ( i forget what happen to the original ) This Manta has been very pampered, the garage it lives in is connected to the house central heating, YES for the last few decades it has lived in a heated garage !! it has had a better chance of holding back the rust than pratically any other Manta. Probably only a Manta that is freshly restored will be better than this one. I'm surprized this one hasn't been snapped up by someone. Richard sent me some photos a year ago when was considering selling, here are inside shots -
  45. 1 point
    That picture says so much, not only do you have a beautiful bright Red Opel Manta just look at the rest of the cars in the picture, uninteresting modern blobs in black, grey and silver, if anyone asks why classic cars are so appealing heres the answer.
  46. 1 point
    Yes there is help, it comes in the form of group therapy at the annual VBOA rally and if a full cure is not achived there is further therapy available in August at Opel Power Show in the Netherlands. Congratulations on getting your beautifully restored Manta back on the road, bet you feel chuffed to bits !
  47. 1 point
    Just come back from a run out (which was Semi successful) and I pulled a plug. Quite happy with that! I Have found I have a leaking brake pressure control valve, so that could be causing the brake issue, if you have ever experienced it look for my post in tech help/brakes and please place a comment. I have also (touch wood) cured the hot start problem which was I am sure was the main power lead to the starter. Changed this to a custom made one from Groves Batteries of Cheltenham and problem seams to have gone. I have had this problem since the original engine upgrade and it's been the major issue for years! All down to a cable which to the naked eye looks great!
  48. 1 point
    MOT PASSED !!!! All good, MOT tester said that he has never tested one before! He also said that as he only tests cars of a minimum of 3 years old, he has never seen an underbody so new!! Result. I have a couple of issues which have come up in the first 20 mile shakedown. The first is a brake issue (which I go into detail in the Tech Help Section) and the second is she don't like starting when hot. I have had this issue with this car before the refurb and I'm going to start by changing the Positive battery lead as this is as old as the car and if this don't work I will revive my old post in tech help! I will keep everyone updated as to its progress here. UPDATE: Brakes could be brand new warped disks! getting a DTI gauge to check.
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