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Showing content with the highest reputation since 26/06/09 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    More work done. It's nearly ready for the bloke we are doing it for to collect. Window glass swapped, central locking motor was hitting the glass so we binned that. Bonnet painted New boot trim and Rad tray made from millboard Bonnet cable/ latch sorted Interior cleaned Front discs and pads, calipers re built Boot light fixed New water pump New battery An Andy rutter tune up All satin trim masked off and painted, mirrors painted Seat repaired Fecking masking tape took some of the millboard surface off, note to self, use chalk Boot tank cover made out of the same stuff Loads of other little jobs sorted, parts collected and fitted Nearly done, thank God
  2. 12 points
    Ha! I took that when I was on booking in duty. The legendary moment when Shug turned up with his "Increasingly Solid A project" This has been threatened for as long as I can remember (but at least 2008) and you made it! Excellent, even if it was on a truck. Persevere and you will get there. Great Mantaray for pulling this all together for those that don't FB and are not part of that group. Interesting that in previous years that most of these would have originated here but FB's upload gives the chance to do it as it happens. That debate is already running elsewhere on the forum. Probably the best weekend for variety and content for about 4 years with some fantastic new members ( some of whom have come to us via FB) and new cars. And I'm just talking about our field! Lots of doom-mongers talking about the magazine, Facebook, the decline of the forum but when it comes to the cars and the people just look at what we turned out. If you take a look at the other single make clubs around the site I think you would struggle to find anyone else who fielded so many cars. I think the OMOC is alive and well irrespective of the platform you use to get your Manta fix.
  3. 11 points
    After a year of looking out for a car, i finally took the plunge and bought my first Manta for over 25 years. Looks solid overall, but there are a few areas that will need some welding pretty soon. The car is very original and I plan to keep it that way, or at least so it can easily be returned to original.
  4. 11 points
    I pay for my membership and haven't been to Billing since 2014 and even then I never had any BBQ. My membership helps pay for it but I don't expect to get cheap/free food, but if it helps to get new members to join then I am glad to give up my share. I joined the club for the marquee of car and variants to aid in it's upkeep and everything that comes with it is a bonus. Doesn't matter what you do in membership people will moan. The web membership was originally setup for overseas enthusiasts that wouldn't be making the shows, (correct me if I am wrong), but people in this country don't go to the shows etc. so I can see why they don't want to pay for others to show their vehicles. The OMOC have to have liability insurance for you to show your car under the OMOC banner. I don't do much in the way of shows but will still pay the £25/year as I want to support the club as much as possible. I do agree with you that the committee members and area reps job's are thankless and very time consuming, and there is a lot of head banging trying to sort things out for members to turn up and take the glory/prizes etc. that the staff have helped to achieve. I easily save well over the £25 membership price due to being a member as I get discount from other members and I have a vast array of friends with knowledge who are willing to help other members.
  5. 11 points
  6. 11 points
  7. 11 points
    Collecting at weekend but heres a preview the paint shop sent me
  8. 11 points
    Thanks Kev! Well after waiting nearly 6 months to get my engine crane back Ive given in and bought another! Never lend out tools.... Managed to get the engine in on my own though, only chipped a wee bit off paint but it easily touched up. Glad to finally have it in! When I get back to it Ill be finishing the wiring, then onto fuel lines then exhaust so I can fire it up! Looking forward to that day!
  9. 11 points
    Id like to say a great big thank you to Kenny Dock and his mate, because of him the car has been recovered and is in. police custody so should have it back soon.thanks to the great response to everyone on here its nice to now people care.
  10. 10 points
    If you've been in the Manta club for a while you may remember a new shell I bought back in 1989 and was always intending to use on my Manta in the UK. Well, things change and I moved over to the US in 1992 and put the shell in storage along with our two Mantas. The shell had a rough time in storage and included low points like being dropped nose first off a fork lift and being stored in a wet barn. In 2002 we spent a year in the UK and I noticed how the shell was beginning to deteriorate, so when we moved back to the US in 2003 I brought it back with me. Shell being unloaded in the US - only 200kg like this! I spent a few hours here and there cleaning the shell, but at least it wasn't getting any worse in the dry California weather. We'd bought a bright orange Manta over here in 1998 and it really wasn't in brilliant condition, having lived most of its live in Venice, California. The salty sea air had taken its toll but it was legal in the US and that made it one of about 25 in the country. Yes, you take what you can find! We were intending to restore it, but we had so much fun driving it every day that we ended up improving it as we drove, slowly making a tired 1.9N Luxus into a reasonable daily driver with a 2.4, 5-speed gearbox, air conditioning and a nice grey Manta Exclusive interior. It really was very orange... In the end, the car's time had come, and in 2012 I decided that I needed to re-shell the car - the old shell could provide a good source of spares. You might think it's easy starting from a new shell, but honestly there's a lot of preparation that goes on. At least I saved having to blast and weld to get a solid shell. First things first was to fix the damage that had been caused in storage, and for that I enlisted a friend of mine, Dennis Gardiner. Dennis is into his Opels and has a stunning Opel GT and has been building an A series for years so it was in good hands. This is how it looks after it's been dropped on its nose After the first pass at straightening Straightened Of course, if it was going to be used over here I needed a left hand drive shell and mine was right hand drive, but I'd been collecting parts for this for years and had both parts of the firewall ready to go. Dennis kindly obliged and you can see the process in the next few pics. Upper firewall, cowl and bonnet supports removed LHD lower firewall fitted Upper firewall in place Cowl ready to weld, then the dash carrier goes in Everything in place - one LHD shell! The list for Dennis just kept expanding as I found other things that needed fixing. One I wanted to do was box the panel between the passenger compartment and boot in, partly for strength and partly to provide a firewall between me and the fuel tank! It was also going to provide the support for the rear headrest brackets, but more of that later. You can see the nice job Dennis made of it. Rear bulkhead boxed in and welded up. We also had fun with the brand new bonnet I'd had shipped from the Netherlands - some Neanderthal had bent one corner and Dennis spent ages getting it right. The new bootlid was similarly curled where it shouldn't be and again Dennis did a nice job. Eventually it was ready to go off to the bodyshop so I put it on some spare suspension parts to make it roll and arranged for pickup. Ready for the bodyshop. The shell was at the bodyshop for about a year because there was so much to do and they had to fit it in around their normal repair business. There was a surprising amount of bodywork to do, partly because the (new) doors ended up not fitting the shell! Apparently this isn't unusual with GM doors, according to the bodyshop, and they always prefer to fit door skins to avoid these sorts of issues. Unfortunately I didn't have this choice as the frames for the doors off the orange car were junk. The end result was that they had to take the hinges off inside the door itself and relocate them up about 10mm to get the door to fit, then reprofile the body line to get everything to line up. There was the odd bit of work on pretty much every panel due to storage dents, but nothing as much fun as the doors. There was a lot of painting to do too. I was very clear that I wanted the whole car to be the same colour, no primer parts left thank you. So they had to paint the inside of the car, the doors, the wheel wells and the underside before they even got round to putting paint on the outside. Eventually it was ready and I must say they did a nice job. The colour is Porsche Arctic Silver which is close to the original Opel L125 but has a much better shine in the sunlight and is way easier to get over here than Opel silver! Returning from the bodyshop OK, that's all for now. I'll post another set of photos shortly. Cheers, Nick
  11. 10 points
    A few folks have asked me about the replacement Door Glass seals that are now available, and how easy they are to change. The parts are available from East Kent Trim supplies - Manta B Window Glass Seal. If there is enough interest in these, I may look at doing a bulk order from them, so please let me know if you are interested (email me by clicking here - Send Email) I did this little job before Billing this year and it took less then an hour to do both sides. I took some pictures as I went along, as I meant to write this up for the forum. The level of skill required is very basic, and only basic tools are required. You will need screwdrivers and a centre-punch and hammer. If you have a door trim removing tool, that makes life a bit easier. Step 1 - Remove the Interior Door handles (2 fasteners), undo the circlip that retains the window winder handle (then go and look for it across the garage floor) and put them in a safe place. Remove all other items attached to the door (speakers, door lock embellisher etc). Undo the retaining clips around the outside edge of the door card and remove the door card by lifting upwards slightly. (Pic 1). You can see that the original felt backing on the window strip is well past its best - cracking, mouldy and brittle, (Pic 2). Step 2 - The Rubber Window seal is located within the trim strip. On the Manta B, this is chrome effect and on the facelift B, this is black. They are aluminium, so be careful not to bend or mis-shape them when handling, as they are soft. Using a large bladed Flathead screwdriver, gently prise the retaining trim strip off the top of the door, (Pic 3 and Pic 4). NOTE - Withdraw the trim strip carefully, as it fits underneath the mirror housing quite tightly. It is easy to bend the trim at this point, so be careful! Step 3 - On your work bench, you will see that the rubber seal is held in place within the aluminium trim strip by a series of punches in the metal that grip the rubber. You will need to gently open these up. I used a flat bladed knife to slide underneath the aluminium just enough to release the grip and not alter the shape of the trim strip too much, (Pic 5). Step 4 - Remove the old rubber seal, depending on how much you opened up the "U channel" you may have to pull it out down the length of the trim piece. You can see the profile of the old and new rubber Seals in Pic 6. Step 5 - Measure the new rubber seal against the one you have removed and cut to the desired length, (Pic 7). They are not supplied to the correct measurements. You may also need to add the necessary profile to the leading edge, as this has a slight cut away to allow for the shape of the retaining trim, (Pic 8). Step 6 - Slide the new rubber seal in to place. Using a centre punch, gently tap the original retaining punches back in, so that the rubber seal is held firmly. Do not distort the trim piece when doing this. I found it useful to position a shim of wood within the U channel to give some support when doing this, (Pic 9, Pic 10). Step 7 - Now that the rubber seal is correctly fitted, you just need to ensure that the retaining clips within the U channel are in the right place (Pic 11). They should be evenly located along the length of the trim strip to make sure it is held in place correctly. Once this is done you can push the trim back into place, remembering to be careful at the front edge, around the mirror housing. Line it up and gently tap it back onto the door skin. Refit the door card and interior trim pieces and that' one side done! Repeat on the other side and you will have leak free doors!
  12. 10 points
    Here we go again. A good rolling shell found. Better get started.
  13. 10 points
    Part way through setting up the club stand.
  14. 10 points
    Will add more pics as wi gang along as wi stand now after approx. 36hrs on motor.
  15. 10 points
  16. 10 points
    I've had a lovely Saturday afternoon out picking up the next project, a very original 1800 Berlinetta hatchback in anthracite. It was on ebay a couple of weeks ago and thanks to the advent of 4G internet in Swansea I was able to win it while still in the pub. First impressions are good, she's actually in better shape than I was expecting. The previous owner bought the car ten days before I was born in '87, I'm only the 3rd owner. A reasonably comprehensive resto was done in the early '00s, including new front wings, full sills and a respray. Sadly about ten years ago the fuel tank spring a leak and that was that. Lucky for me I just happen to have a spare tank lying around The chassis rails, jacking points, rear arches and sills are all excellent. I haven't had a proper poke around yet but I can't see much that would prevent it from getting an MOT. Just needs a full service and some filler in the nose cone for now then I'll get her running and off for an MOT. Who knows, I may even make it to Billing in a Manta this year!
  17. 10 points
    All the underneath of the car is now stripped and ready for blasting. The redundant brackets have been removed and the spare wheel well cut out and prepped for the battery tray I want to match the other side so I will be welding in a piece of boot floor into the hole and the battery tray will be placed on top of that. I wanted to do a proper account of how I convert Jag MK2 rear hubs to use on my manta for my records as well as anyone looking at doing the same Here we go Take one manky Jag hub The trouble is getting the studs out as they are screwed in. just using a pair of pipe grips didn't work so I resorted to drilling out the middle of the back of the stud Place the hub into vice as shown Normally I only use Presto or Dormer drills but this drill from lidl ( shhhhhhhhhh ) worked so well I'm getting some more! Use a slightly bigger drill and then knock into the middle the part of the stud that's been peened over. Then get a big set of Stilsons and turn the stud anti clockwise ( so press down on the stud if it's still orientated in the vice the same way from drilling the studs) Turn turn turn and out we come Here you can see why they wouldn't just smack out! .................. Now over to the drill press We want to install longer better studs and the studs used on the rear are the large spline ones 14.3 mm @63mm long. The shorter studs are the front ones for the aluminium hubs and are 13.1 mm with a short spline The hole in the hub is around 11mm but it's not just as easy as drilling to 14mm and pulling a stud in as the back of the hub need a flat area square to the face for the stud to sit. So place hub onto drill press table and make sure its all level in relationship to each part. bolt down and drill out to 12mm, then 13mm using plenty of cutting oil Then this counter bore drill comes into play, it has a bottom bore of 13 mm that fits into the 13mm hole you drill but has a top drill of 20mm to cut a flat area for the stud to sit into Turn the hub over, locate the centre bore drill and slowly mill the area for the stud to sit at a depth of 2mm it does this Are we done? No.............. Turn the hub back over as we need to drill to 14mm to allow the stud to be placed One hub takes me 3 hours Remove from drill press and take over to the vice, arrange hub as before and square up a stud into the hole Then draw into place Repeat 10 times and we are done Phew!
  18. 9 points
    So my dad took the head staggers again and bought another Manta. He thought that it would look well alongside his Ascona 400 rep. Started off as a 1982 small bumper model Manta as these seem to have stood the test of time better than the later models. Only metalwork its had is replacing the front grill from the earlier 2 slot to the later 4 slot. Apart from that it was as straightforward as fitting a 400 kit can be. Biggest problem was cleaning up the mess the last person that painted it made, as it was resprayed to help sell it. Think the paint was threw on and brushed in with a yard brush!! Anyway a few pics of how it sits now: And its companions in the garage
  19. 9 points
  20. 9 points
  21. 9 points
    Thanks Mantaman for the encouragement and the picture, may well copy that idea in the future, careful masking needed I think. Well before going any further I thought I should get the vax machine out and freshen up the interior Not looking to bad in the photo but was very dirty Much better 10 years since it has been on the road apart from MOT only just up the road, So I decided to stay close to home in case of problems, enjoy some Cornish countryside and the sunshine and take some photos A bit of variety Cornish engine house Yes I am proud, only problem my MANTA was accused of being a F--D CAPRI :angry: Wish it was a special stage
  22. 9 points
    Productive day today engine box quick rack front arb and exhaust all on
  23. 9 points
    Ok so its been ages so i been on here so i thought i would just do a quick update. So car has now been painted and the rebuld has begun What do people think?
  24. 9 points
    Fitted early front and rear bumpers,square lights,rear fog and for the first time in 21 years it's got a MOT and back on the road !!! Will try and get some better photos later this week if the weather behaves !!
  25. 9 points
    http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b506/stephenlevin1620/IMG_0123_zps6878f283.jpgaa Some new bits
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