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  1. 10 points
    ENGINES !!!!! ARGHHHHHHHH! Well its been a busy winter in my camp this year! I've had a few issues, and thanks to some of the members its all going good for now! Here’s what has been happening and I hope you enjoy this mega Manta update. ____________________________________________________ I started off the winter on a bit of a downer actually. I was hoping to finish the car to take it away to the Gower for my anniversary in October, but the Engine that I rebuilt just using new seals was still pulling in oil past the seals and down the guides. I was hoping that the cleaned up and rebuilt lump would last a couple of years but unfortunately this wasn’t going to be the case. She ran sweet for about 500 miles, and then started to smoke a little bit on hard acceleration and I knew that the prognosis of this was not going to be good. After about another 100 miles it was smoking on start-up, not lots but enough that I didn’t like it! To top it all off on her last outing the heater matrix decided give out and started to turn the interior into a Swedish sauna with a pinhole in the lower matrix body feeding little wafts of smoke up through the windscreen vents. That my friends was enough!!! I placed her in the garage and stopped to think and sulked a lot! A bit depressed and a bit disheartened I thought that I would put up a parts request on the forum for a good 2.0E engine, also put feelers out for engine rebuild advice of which I got plenty. December came and went, but in January I had a message from @Mantacol asking me if I was still in the market for a good low mileage engine as he had a 58,000 miler out of an exclusive that he had up for grabs. He said it’s been sat for about for a few years, but it was a great engine when he removed it. Colin lives about 200 miles away from me, but it sounded to good to be true a 58,000 miler!!! We settled on a price and then my wife and daughter and I set out for the journey up to north Wales. Colin and his Wife were really lovely and he showed me his/her/their (you will have to inform me on that one Colin) 400R which is really looking the part. I made a frame out of 75mmx75mm timber to hold the engine securely in the trailer for the journey back so it wasn't rolling around. The engine apart from being covered in dirt and crud was all there, complete with inlet and exhaust manifold, injectors, throttle body dizzy, so I knew that is not been messed around with. The sump was off and the bores looked unmarked and clean and shiney like they do after a few miles. On removal of the manifolds there was no evidance oil staining on the exhaust guides or in the inlets. Even engines that have been left for a while can still show evidence of these faults that can indicate worn guides. The first job was to remove the water pump. The water pump had seized up solid , but this didn’t matter as I already had a one to go on that was on my original engine. Although I know this is not good practice it had only done about 600 miles so I thought I would use it. After spraying a can of WD-40 on the bolts I managed to remove them. I’m sure this was the original water pump as these bolts felt like they had never been removed. I always take extra care with these bolts as if you dont you can end up taking the threads out with the bolt! Behind the pump lay corrosion but this soon cleaned off and after I gave the engine a good wash and brush down with white spirit things were starting to look a lot more like it! After the wash and dry out of the engine every thread in the water pump housing was cleaned out. Lucky I had some extended taps to do the threads in the block that run through the front timing casing. I cant recommend doing this enough as the steel bolts corrode quickly against the alloy and create lots of white dust which block the threads up giving false torque readings. It can also restrict the depth that the bolts go in, and in some cases strip threads giving you all sorts of problems with leaking water pumps. After I had bunged everything up it was to work with the grinder with a rotary wire brush on the cast iron only. I love this tool as it cleans the pours of the cast iron and makes it all nice and new looking. After the engine is made dirt free, any threads were cleaned out with the correct tap, and then I masked up and sprayed to match the engine that was to come out of the Manta. While the engine was out I decided that as she had been stood for a while it might be a good shout to give the lifters a once over. And im glad I did. They were solid with tar and only 3 of them had any movement in the head of the lifter at all. It took me nearly 4 hours to disassemble them. The internal piston on most of them was gummed into the lifter so bad that even soaking them in brake cleaner did nothing. Using the air tools to blow through the tiny oil gallery in the side of the lifter helped to work it free. All the lifters were completely stripped, checked and rebuilt and operated as they should. The removal and insertion of the engine was as always very straight forward, but fortunately I managed to get hold of a brand new original GM stamped clutch plate for the GT/E so that went in as well. After I connected every up watered and oiled her, I primed the oil system by using a tool I have made to go into the oil pump drive socket. I place it in a power drill at a moderate speed and keep going until oil starts coming out of the 8th lifter and running down the slope by the oil return pipe at the back of the head. Everything in the engine had already received a coating of oil cam, camchain, crank, bearings, bores Etc. as the sump had been off the engine, and I had removed the cam covers to clean and lube everything. THE START UP She started first time. Ran a little lumpy as they do for about 10 seconds and then ran fine. There was a little smoke coming from the exhaust, but I wasn’t worried at this stage as everything had just been oiled up and this was expected. I got her up to temperature and shut her down and removed a plug and there it was..... Oil. I also had oil in the inlet manifold, quite a lot of it as well. The 2.2 rocker cover looks great, but even after cleaning out the mesh in the rocker cover I was still getting the oil in the inlet manifold and it was sucking down the engine breather pipe. I decided that I will go back to the standard rocker cover as the breather exit is very high, in fact it’s on it's own little box on top of the rocker cover, compared to the 2.2 one which exits from the side of the cover quite low down. After cleaning up and spraying up the standard cover and fitting, I still had this problem. After chatting with @mantasrmehe reminded me to clean out the oil breather gauze in the rocker cover as this condenses the oil. I removed them from both ends of the cover and they looked like they had been baked in tar. Once these had been cleaned and I had cleaned as much oil as possible from the manifold out I had no more oil in the manifold!…… But I still had oily plugs. ARGHH! @H-400 pipes up here and tells me that it’s probably the valve stem oil seals, but first to check out the compression. I had a old compression tester so I screwed it in and each cylinder was making 170PSI, more importantly as David said they were all the same. This was great news as this proves that the bottom end is good so I must be sucking oil down the guides!! AGAIN! At 58,000 miles I dont think the guides should be that worn. There was hardly any sludge in the engine or around the top of the head, so taking onboard all the advice I have been given I surmised (and prayed) that it must just be the valve stem seals. I made a tool to compress the valve spring using a old rocker. I had to cut this out with a 1mm disk cutter blade as these little suckers are very hard. With the piston up to near TDC and 2M of clean braided ratchet strap cable poked down the plug hole, I backed off the rockers on number 1 and brought the engine up towards TDC until I could feel resistance. I proceeded to remove the inlet valve using my tool and once the collets had been removed and the spring out, I could gain access to the seal. I gently prised the seal off with a flat blade screwdriver and removed it and it was like concrete. The “rubber” was as hard a a Bic biro pen. The seal you could waggle on the stem where it had shrunk due to no oil and lack of use. If you look at the image of the two seals together you can see the size difference of the inner hole. Although the stem fitting hole on the new one is smaller the inner hole on the new seal is the correct size as it slips down the valve nicely. The seal did not look worn or misshaped but it had just dried out. At this point I could have jumped for joy, as this must be the issue. After chatting with Herman I wanted to get hold of the Victor Reinz style seals with a spring around the stem hole. These seals are far superior to the standard ones as they also incorporate a metal body. Unfortunately the only place to get them from is Germany, so I waited a week for them to arrive. New exhaust seals were also ordered as the old ones had stretched and were slipping up and the valve stem. Replacement of the seals went like a dream. But before I ran the nice new seals down the valves and chaffed them up on the sharp edges I made some seal protectors using heat shrink tubing over the valves as a sleeve was not sent with the seals. These tubes slip nicely off the valve after the seal has been placed on the guide. Just for reference my method for the exhaust guide seal replacement is : First, clean everything. (1) Turn the Rotorcap upside down and fill with oil and put it on. (2) Place on the valve and spring and spring retainer cap and shroud (3) Compress the spring (4) Oil your valve stem and place on your seal protector (5) carefully place the seal over the seal protector and push it virtually to the end of the protector. (6) lift the seal protector slightly until the seal groove is uncovered (7) Gently push the seal off the end of the protector into the groove using something like a WD-40 red tube. You may have to wiggle the spring retainer cap slightly. (8) Pop the collets back in (9) gently unscrew the rocker, making sure everything is nicely in place. This I found is the best way. Once everything has been reassembled and valve adjustments made I started her up ran her, and although I didn’t have any oil any more, my plugs were a little sooty. After testing the ECU temperature sensor (that checked out OK) I found that the previous owner of air flow meter had turned the airscrew right in. I plugged in a Gunson’s Colortune into number 1 plug and turned the air mixture screw out ¼ of a turn at a time and after 1 whole turn out the Colortune went blue. This is now what my plugs look like ! All 4 of them. No oil, and all the perfect colour. So I figure the moral of this update is this. Without this club and this forum I would have been lost. I wouldn’t have had a replacement engine, and I wouldn't have had the help and support to put this engine back into first class working order. So thanks go to Mantacol for the engine (Cheers buddy I owe you one) H-400 & mantasrme for the technical reference / guidance and encouragement Next update making a boot carpet for a coupe!
  2. 9 points
    After a faff yesterday with my trailer not being fixed managed to borrow from friends brothers body shop A trouble free day after a 7am set off to dropping the car at it’s short term home at the farm with reasonable weather too. The ascona In a lot better state than the pictures show, All usual areas gone but totally saveable and I’m well pleased. It’s probably the best A series I’ve had so far in an original state. And to boot had a load of panels and spares thrown in for a deal. 4 new wings (5 I have now!) x2 new front bumpers a top front panel another boot lid with a good top half. A rotted out door but with glass all the trims are there an ascona A coupe door full rear quarter(which I’ll sell on to recoup for anyone interested) x4 4 spoke revolutions has a set of lowering springs on it. very happy.
  3. 6 points
    For a long time I've wanted an Ascona A, preferably a Voyage (yeah right, like one of those is going to turn up!). Over the years a couple of Voyage projects have turned up (the latest one a few weeks ago and featured on this very forum), but I've not had the money or the skills to sort them out. I've also wanted for a long time a car sold by the garage I used to visit as a kid, Bridge Motors in Skellingthorpe. I missed out on an Ascona B saloon about 15 years ago, and haven't seen another since (for sale or otherwise). Then, on Thursday night I saw a post on Facebook linking to an ebay auction for a Voyage (Thanks Paul). Described as 1976 opel ascona showing only 30 000 miles from new This has been sat for years and is being sold as a non runner / restaration looks solid underneath see pictures this is a rare car as I can't find the same model for sale anywhere has keys and service book . log book will need applying for Viewing welcome Interesting, oh, and it's in LIncoln, getting more interesting. A quick look at the photos, it looks quite clean, and one shows a partial registration plate, WTL 75. That's a Lincolnshire registration, could this be a Bridge Motors car? Probaby not as it was registered in 76, but the photos make it look like an earlier car, chrome overriders and only 2 air vents in the dash. It's probably been imported in 1976, maybe by a member of the armed forces, lot of RAF bases around these parts. Still, It'd be rude not to go and see it. I phoned the seller, and arranged to go and look at it the next day (Good Friday). On arriving at the yard there in all it's glory was a K registered Ascona. In the metal the paint wasn't as good as the photos suggested, but it all appeared to be solid. One wheel arch trim was missing, and the drivers front wing it should've been on was dented at the bottom. I'm hopeful that can be straightened. Crawling under the car it all looked good again, sills seem to be solid, chassis rails solid, jacking points solid. It doesn't look like it'll need much welding at all. Inside the car is filthy, but looks to be a near mint interior under all the muck. It turns out the car was parked up in a barn in 1976, and the owner passed away. It has sat there ever since until this last week when the guy I bought it from pulled it, and an old Austin A35 van, out. There are a few small dents on the car, possibly due to it having been covered in all sorts of farm detritus over the years. A bit of bartering I agreed a price with the seller which was a bit more than I'd hoped for, but less than he'd been offered over the phone, and included delivery to my house 10 miles away.
  4. 5 points
    Got my seats back today well happy with them
  5. 5 points
    New pressed plates on and a little nod to all manta owners with the wording at the bottom. Car booked for rolling road 9th may can't wait to drive now. graphics booked and should be fitted in hope in next couple of weeks.
  6. 5 points
    Back from another great show at the NEC. A big thanks to Neil Boylan and Steve Legg for showing their cars and everyone who helped out on the stand. Lots of interest in the cars and a few new members, so all in all a good weekend. See you all when we do it again in November. ( If you are interested in displaying your car at the November Classic Show, please contact Simon Peckham)
  7. 4 points
    Ok, i've been busy on the car over the last couple of weeks. I got the front calipers back from Big Red, new goodridge brake hoses all round. I went for the retro looking ones(matt black). Excuse the dust! Brake system fully bled and working, new rear drums etc and front discs also master cylinder. Once i had fitted the engine block and gearbox back in to the car i then started to prep the body for paint. Firstly a 2k primer This was flatted using 600grit wet and dry. Then remasked ready for the top coat, i also masked the garage walls etc. I left it a couple of days to harden as no baking facility here and then flat and polished the panels I could then start to fit some body trim once i had painted the rear 1/4 window and top of door aperature in satin black I had loads of bits back from the metal finishers this week so have been able to start fitting the car back up Dash is back in now along with drip rail mouldings and door rubbers, next step is to rebuild the engine and try and get her running. Once this is achieved i will then prep and paint the other panels.
  8. 3 points
    Hi all, I will be taking ownership of a manta gte exclusive hatchback later this week. Body is actually superb for the year and is complete. I will need to change water pump but will also rebuild engine as it’s not been on the road for a while , put in a new clutch and so on. It has an irmscher steering wheel which I hope was standard equipment. It is on a D registration plate and I will upload pictures and full details when it arrives. i am hoping the engine rebuild is as simple as I remembered for these cih engines . paul
  9. 3 points
    Agreed it looks like a potential good hatch with a genuine reason for a sale........................ However i would have spent a bit of time detailing up that engine bay before taking a pic to try to present the car better. The current owner says he has seen recent Manta sales go through at £7K - £8K but that was for coupes. Lots of hatches recently & currently for sale in similar condition & they seem to reach between £4K - £5K in genuine auction sales. I am not trying to talk down the price of Hatch Mantas the market dictates the price, maybe the improving weather & the fact that the "show season " has started will raise demand a bit.
  10. 3 points
    Hello there I have a d reg Opel manta exclusive coupe,I bought it a year ago needing a bit of work,I.e sunroof rotten rear wheel arches inner and outer,front engine bay bad in places so I sent it away for a full strip and rebuild down to the bare shell engine stripped and rebuilt and over a year later I should have it back next month,happy days
  11. 3 points
    OK, this is another one for sub-zero on the cool wall !!
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    That would also make a great write up for the club mag.......If you still have it all on your PC, email it over to Alan or me, Please.
  14. 2 points
    Great news, glad you got her all sorted. Some people still morn about the £25 membership fee, but I'm sure you feel that your £25 was well spent. This is a great forum with very helpful members and worth £25 of anybody money.
  15. 2 points
    Hi there H11poc (heck of a username) I too am proud owner of a recent purchase being a Monaco Blue Irmscher Exclusive D plate Hatch. I always used to slate the old CiH lump in these cars "BUT" always maintained the atitude that they are bulletproof, I started mine up and it ran after about 12 or 14 years of non running and it runs,,,,, Lovely simple mechanics, just look out for the rot on these mate, my first later model Manta I've owned is this, I'm more used to the early pre 1980 'B' series. I've spent so many hours repairing (Welding) shite up on this hatch that I've never had to in the past. But all well worth it when done, enjoy.
  16. 2 points
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  17. 2 points
    Thanks for your help and advice guys, much appreciated. I actually received an exhaust downpipe gasket with the complete head set that I bought when I did the engine work a while back. However, your comments did make me check - its a perfect fit. A bit more work tonight with the drill and ta dah!: Another small step forwards... Have a good evening everyone.
  18. 2 points
    Hey everyone. New to the forum. So I have an 88 manta gte exclusive that I've had hidden away in a shed for a few years and I'm finally getting to the stage that I want to restore it to what it deserves. I have a very clean shell starting out so not many rust issues at all apart from a few minor bits and pieces. My main concern is the engine. I want to keep the original 2.0 engine in it but get to work on building up a bit more power in it and having it right. I have a set of carbs off an old gsxr 1100 that I'm considering using and putting the old injection system on the shelf for now. I can get the manifold made up for it handy enough. I can get a pump and fuel pressure regulator handy enough too. I know tuning will be a nightmare but I love a challenge. Has anyone done it before and have you and recommendations before I just tear into it. After that I suppose it' the engine itself that will need the work, higher lift cam, oversized pistols, bigger valves? Thats another area I could do with help on as to what works and what doesn'. The budget isn't going to be all that big either so what can bits be salvaged from that are still available around the place. If anyone has good bits they need to offload I would interested too. Thanks in advance for any help!
  19. 2 points
    Itching to get on the road in the morning and pickup this rare little beast.
  20. 2 points
    No progress to report but I found a cool sticker to go in the back window
  21. 2 points
    You could do that, buts it's a lot of work to make up all the new mounting brackets. Scimitar 4HA axel can be modified to fit using all the original mounting points and will take a Jag LSD, lots of different ratios available. If for a Manta B/C then you need a 6 Se axel if for an A series then you need a 5SE axel. This is my 4HA set up I have on my A series.
  22. 2 points
    Nope, all the std 2.0CIH/1.8OHC Manta flywheels i have seen all have the recess on them (approx 2.5mm) . I have a redtop flywheel as well for the larger clutch and that is the same. HTH Chris
  23. 2 points
    I'm not sure if I'm stupid or brave, but wanted to change the wheels over to a set that with tyres that would hold air, so I gingerly tried the jacking point for strength. No nasty creaking or crunchy noises, and the car went up with the jack. While the wheel was off I took a quick pic of the chassis rail.
  24. 2 points
    Superb, she looks a little cracker doesn’t she?! Really pleased for you.
  25. 2 points
    Anyone’s on here. My brother spotted this morning at riverside.
  26. 2 points
    As March passes us by, the painfully slow progress with this manta plods along. It'll be 4 years soon since this started. On inspection, the radiator had a small section of brass that had come loose. It was sent over to a radiator specialist for repair and texting before refitting it, Guess what? Upon pressure testing it was found to have a leak, so needed to be recored. Oh well, I was running out of excuses to spend some more money on this project, It is now refitted and looks very smart. With the manifolds fitted, that's another small step........
  27. 2 points
    Very nice car that, rare colour too. It must of had paint or something as the decals are the wrong colour, it’s also a Hatch not a coupe Mr eBay seller. Needs axle reconditioning! clocks don’t work! (Voltage reg & maybe coil amplifier) the grill trim and washer jets are missing. Headlights are basically no good. Ot is a nice car and a nice colour but at that price with those faults! It’s keen
  28. 2 points
    I've been trying to find clips to hold on my door cards. My clips are getting tired and I'm fed-up having to keep tapping them back into postion. I've found these clips which fit perfectly. If you needs clips I can recommend these.
  29. 2 points
    I thought it was. Post from nuttynick 2011
  30. 1 point
    I've got one on it's way from Germany now, thanks for the replies.
  31. 1 point
    It's probably great fun to drive and like you say a good price considering what will have been spent. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder....I'm sure it will find a good home soon.
  32. 1 point
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Great stuff, i can feel a use for this coming on! maybe, it would be great in the magazine, could you add tap and dye size used for handyness? Also supplier list for seals would be handy, did you inspect lower internals of block at any time?
  35. 1 point
    What a write up that is. BRILLIANT. even a school kid could follow it. By the way do way give OSCARS in this club?
  36. 1 point
    Great write up, thanks for taking the time to do that. Very interesting and handy to know. Enjoy the summer.
  37. 1 point
    Looks super clean underneath, but why wouldn't you put photos of the outside on if you're trying to sell a car.
  38. 1 point
    Bit of both. But a must is that it can be easily made original if required , body to not be modified in anyway. All factory interior too. No tunnel mods etc.
  39. 1 point
    Hi All , Can anyone advise on the job to remove a sunroof on manta GTE thanks
  40. 1 point
    Ive a good running engine missing the sump 🙂 Only wanting £60 for it, im in lancashire , could ship it on a pallet if needed
  41. 1 point
    Yes, that about it, double-u-bracket are also welded to axel and A frame is rose joints all around. Brakes are Astra callipers with solid discs. LSD is a power loc from an XJ jag, straight swop, just need to have some tophats machined which I have the drawing for.
  42. 1 point
    Well, my Exclusive is now here in New Zealand. F596NCE
  43. 1 point
    This is the airbox with plastic tubes as they go into the hole next to the radiator. I folded the hole with a pair of plyers (see pic posted in october above) so the tube fits. Still got to finish te air-intake in the front of the bumper. Grts Herman
  44. 1 point
    There was a kent 244 on eBay the other day, not sure when the auction finishes
  45. 1 point
    Followed Rallycross for 30 years and curiously there has never been a Manta competing in the UK, they were/are not very common in Europe, here's one seen in a recent YouTube video that competes in the Belgium Rallycross Historic/post Historic Championship, this is when the championship visited Buxtehude, Germany - Unfortunately there is only a few seconds of the Manta in the Video, a least it's a great shot of it 'doing a Kevin Erikson', round the outside and into the lead !
  46. 1 point
    I was referring to mr virco haha
  47. 1 point
    Unfortunately they jus trying there luck...
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    To put the lower balljoint nut on(or any balljoint nut for that matter)you put a suitable spacer under the nut ,i use a ring spanner ,and use it to take up the gap on the nut before it gets to the self locking bit.you then can pull the taper into the joint good and firm and tight. Then remove nut and spacer spanner and carefully fit the nut properly. removing is more tricky.plenty of wd on the nut and dont allow it to become tight or once the taper slips if it does you will have a bugger of a job getting the nut off a spinning joint and may need to cut nut off.not so bad on a lower joint as you can always try a jack under it but annoying when it happens to a top one or track rod end !
  50. 1 point
    Yeah I had to cut and glue the back section of the seal . Thanks all .