mantasrme

Does it buzz when you have the lights on and open the drivers door? Assuming your interior light actually comes on in that situation and the door sensor switch isn't iffy.

I've got a spare 1.9 engine from a Manta A sat in my workshop, plus the matching 4 speed box. But its not a known runner it was a spare that came with a car a customer bought, the head is not attached and i have no idea of mileage or condition. I also have a 2.0gte engine but that had been sat in a damp dirty store room for a long time before it ended up at mine so would need a full build most likely. I've got tham tucked away incase i ever need them or parts off of them, but would let them go if someone wanted to build one.

Thats not a fog light relay, thats the door open buzzer on a later car from memory. The rear fog light doen't have a relay, just the switch in the dash. If its not working start with the bulb, then the earth connection at the lamp (some of them earth to the bumper bracket and that goes rusty over time). Then the switch and fuses.

https://gripperlsd.com/product/opel-manta/ If you are not sure what settings you want give them a bell to discuss your driving style and car setup and they will advise

Thats the one i'd heard the 3.9 (3.89) was in but nice to have it confirmed. But no it was never sold in the UK, to the best of my knowledge there is only 1 over here and Lewis imported that from Greece if i remember rightly

Welcome along. The UK cars only came with 3.44 and 3.67 options of axle gearing as standard. There was a 3.9 fitted as standard somewhere in europe that might be findable on ebay germany etc. Think it only came on the small engined manta b's over there like Greece had for emmisions reasons. But 4.22 to 5.28 CWP's are available from a few places such as https://www.krause-rennsporttechnik.de/shop/en/Chassis/Rear-Axle/Axle-drive-ratio%2C-CIH?source=2&refertype=1&referid=107

You can get recon calipers but you need to keep the carriers so clean them up well as they are not available new. What wheels are you aiming to put them under? They fit under some 13" rims but not all. So worth trying the calipers on the car before you get too far if you are set on a particular wheel. Also i have the modifed Audi discs you need in stock normally already done and ready to fit the manta. There's one set on the shelf currently.

Good luck on your hunt. One thing i would suggest is that you go and sit in one (assuming you haven't recently) and see how it fits you. There is less room in an A than a B for the driver. Until recently i hadn't sat in a standard A and i find them really cramped for leg room, admitedly i am 6'2" which doesn't help. The B's have more room especially with the recaro seats adjusted for a little more rear movement. I have an A in at the moment that has had the B recaros fitted and modified to go back as far as possible and i'm still cramped for leg room. Which is a shame as i've always fancied an A for both the looks and the free road tax. But will have to content myself with B's which isn't a major setback i will admit as i have 2 🙂

Looking at the bid history i wouldn't be suprised if it didn't sell and he still owns it. Especially as the seller had it up for £5490 on Facebook marketplace but didn't have a reserve on ebay.

I've been looking at the floorpan of an early B (as i have one on a spit in my unit) there are no dimples in the rear for the fuel hose holes. However if you look inside the boot you may find several round and oval dotted outlines in the sound deadening pad. That mark various options for different models. The larger horizontal oval one on the right that i've started to peal up is where the fuel pipes normally go through. Original style pipe grommets are available from https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/?a=1747&lang=eng as are the inner wing grommets (and many many other nice things) The hole into the boot you have on the passenger side and that is also in my picture is indeed for the original carb fuel line that runs up the passanger side of the car, as the pump is on that side of the engine. That large hole in your box section on the drivers side matches up to the larger central hole in the bracket in Mickfrads last 2 pictures. That Y (ish) shaped bracket is welded onto the box section for injection cars then the 3 rubber bobbins are fixed to that and the fuel pump bracket to give some isolation from noise transfering to the shell etc. The extra thing is a pre filter as said, alloy modern ones are available in the original shape/style from https://www.krause-rennsporttechnik.de/shop/themes/kategorie/detail.php?artikelid=7093

Yeah just above and to the side of the steering column for the loom hole. Thats a Hatchback fuel pump bracket you have there the coupe one looks like this Its mounted on drivers side of the crossmember behind the axle tunnel. The one that blends into the panhard rod chassis mount. On an injection car there are 3 tabs (or even a Y shaped bracket with the 3 ends hung over the edges of the box section) with a large hole in the centre of it. Its directly behind the 2 holes for the fuel pipes to go through from the boot. Which i seem to think are dimpled to show their location even if there is not a hole on that shell. The 2 holes on the inner wing are indeed for the fuel pipes into engine bay.

Brake linings (shoes and pads) rear wheel cylinders, filters and wipers are all available from a local motor factors. Even GSF will get them for you. But you will need to either ring them or pop in to talk to them. Their website likely won't list the parts but they can be gotten in. I've had rear cylinders from my local GSF many times. They might also be able to source you front disks and handbrake cable, can't say i've ordered either from them but worth an ask. They used to be able to supply the front anti roll bar drop links, bushes/tube and bolt as a set. Probably still can but again not something i've ordered in a long time. Rear antiroll bar drop link bushes are the same as Omega rear arb bushes from memory. I have a part number somewhere if i can find it. You'll need to retain the metal plates that hold them. Rear tailgate struts can be replaced with used Rover 200 hatch struts, they are slightly more powerful but ensure you don't get smacked in the back of the head when not paying attention.

If the crank or/and flywheel marks are in doubt then pull a spark plug out. Then use either a thin wooden stick or bent piece of wire etc to touch the top of the piston as you rotate the engine. Its not the easiest on a CIH because of the entry angle of the plug hole but it will certainly tell you if either of your marks are miles out. Also if an injector seal fixed it enough to start and drive the timing can't be out far enough to be that bad. It may not have been the injector seal as such but the moving/messing with loom and rail etc that actually did it. But either way they didn't change the timing to go from a none starting car to a driving car (however briefly). Have you tried giving it a shot of easy start while cranking? Its a sure fire way to tell if the ignition etc is working correctly. Having fuel pressure/ injectors firing and a smell of fuel does not prove the fuel is getting into the combustion chamber at the right time in the right amount to be ignited by the spark. If more injector seals are leaking the extra air drawn in will weaken the mixture enough to make it hard to start. A squirt of Ether will get life from a car with no fuel and air leaks