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Torque Tube Bearing Mod


bones
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I haven't been on for a while and can't remember if I had asked about the torque tube bearing mod to remove the rubber doughnut. 

 I pretty much know what it is but have never seen any pictures or exactly is needed for the job, bearing size tube size etc. 

Has anyone done the conversion in question and point me in the right direction on what is needed and some pictures would be ace. 

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Hi Bones.Give me a bit of time and i will get you the mod pictures up for you.I did this conversion on my Chevette rally car it makes a bid difference to the handling.

Fantastic! That would be a big help as I have been very slack for the last year or so and need to get cracking on my car, car is getting a bit more umph so thinking the car needs the upgrade.. 

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I believe the original, and certainly my inspiration is on http://homepage.ntlworld.com/david.jackson17/trans_1999_changes.htm

I find it gives more warning of rear end breakaway but I would not fancy it on a road car as it is harsh and magnifies all the rear axle noise into the bodyshell although I'm told it sounds OK from outside. I did this mod to my hillclimb/sprint car earlier this year, I did not mod my own drive shaft but bought one from Risse Motorsport and instead of retaining the spherical bearing by a circlip I used a clamp plate. You also need to address the bushes on the cross member, the rubber ones move quite a long way so I made up some nylon bushes. Good luck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I believe the original, and certainly my inspiration is on http://homepage.ntlworld.com/david.jackson17/trans_1999_changes.htm

I find it gives more warning of rear end breakaway but I would not fancy it on a road car as it is harsh and magnifies all the rear axle noise into the bodyshell although I'm told it sounds OK from outside. I did this mod to my hillclimb/sprint car earlier this year, I did not mod my own drive shaft but bought one from Risse Motorsport and instead of retaining the spherical bearing by a circlip I used a clamp plate. You also need to address the bushes on the cross member, the rubber ones move quite a long way so I made up some nylon bushes. Good luck.

Thanks Dave, I sent Risse motorsport an email about parts which I think I may have confused them a tad. Can you remember any part numbers ? they sent me a link but I think the torque tube looks like a standard one.  http://www.risse-motorsport.de/advanced_search_result.php/language/en/keywords/090502

http://www.risse-motorsport.de/product_info.php/info/p319_Reinforced-axle-extension-of-cardan-shaft--in-tow-bar-.html

 

On the link you send it looks like there are two bearings, one inner and one outer. Is your setup the same?  

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The actual torque tube that Risse list is a standard steel one as per Manta A, you still have to cut a lump off and weld in your machined tube extension, the piece I bought was the reinforced carden shaft (aka rear propshaft) - basically a standard shaft with a thick wall tube welded onto the outside. I think their quality control is OK now but I sent the first one back as the welding was rubbish.

There are 2 bearings shown in the cross section drawing, the inner one is the standard Manta one that normally sits in the rubber mounting, I kept the outer clamshell case on as without it the ID of my tube extension was too big. The outer bearing is the spherical bearing that locates the torque tube, part no. of bearing I used was GEG-60ES-2RS which should be available from you local bearing supplier.

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