Nick86 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi I have a Cav mk1 and the temperature shows the car running hot but I don't think it is. I put the temp sender into a cup of water at 90 deg and it went into the red I think the thermostat is supose to open at 98deg so it should not be in the red. I have heard this is common but how do I fix this problem? My fuel gauge is also out by 1/2 a tank ish. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Search is your friend. Search voltage stabiliser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick86 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) Thanks where do I get an original one? I have found one on eBay only it's not an original and will need wiring in any hints tips advice? The old one im sure has 3 pins and other one has two? Edited March 21, 2012 by Nick86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mint Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Does the stabiliser have a screw sticking out the back? You can use it adjust the stabiliser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 The originals certainly don't have a screw sticking out the back! If you get stuck let me know, I've got a few original ones, I'll test them and find you a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dog321fish Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) ebay seller Kumi1969 makes them, and sells them on ebay but none there at the moment. If you email him through ebay he will let you know when he makes a batch up. I think a ccvs3 is what you will want. Last time i bought one it was £9.99 plus £1.50 p&p. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4163c8a4ab You can contact him through this ad on ebay. HTH Dave Edited March 21, 2012 by dog321fish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick86 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 I have done some research into them and found out all you need is something to lower the voltage to a steady 10v supply quite simple really Well that's if my understanding is right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 The originals certainly don't have a screw sticking out the back! They do. Not on the case on the terminal side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Damn, corrected twice in as many days! Been a while since I looked at one, but I bow to your knowledge Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Damn, corrected twice in as many days! Been a while since I looked at one, but I bow to your knowledge Doc Now that I have read this I will put my shoes on and go down to the garage to look at one, cos I'd have said the same as Rob!! so must go and look a bit closer, wish I hadn't read it now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Now that I have read this I will put my shoes on and go down to the garage to look at one, cos I'd have said the same as Rob!! so must go and look a bit closer, wish I hadn't read it now Tut tut. (shakes head dissapointedly) hat do you think it uses to adjust the distance the bi metallic strip bows before making a contact. It is 10V RMS after all. Oh look there is the hole I pulled one out of by the + Terminal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I couldn't see it on the one I was looking at because it was sealed up with a resin, which I expect is there to stop it turning, but now you have educated me all is very clear! Question If you don't mind me asking, How do you test one of these, is it by just checking the continuity of the coil, or what? Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick86 Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) Plug it into a 12v battery using the + - marked on the stabiliser and test the voltage coming out of the terminal marked with an arrow it should read 10v.if you are getting the full battery power you may need to calibrate the stabiliser and try again. Edited March 23, 2012 by Nick86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Many thanks for that Nick, I've just tested the three I have, and only one of them is OK ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick86 Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Lol at least you've got one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Plug it into a 12v battery using the + - marked on the stabiliser and test the voltage coming out of the terminal marked with an arrow it should read 10v. Unfortunately that is wrong. This would only work if you had an RMS gauge, which almost no one does. Essentially the standard regulator is a bi-mettalic strip with a heating element wrapped around it. The heating element heats the strip and causes it to bend either towards or away from a contact, I forget which. It heats up the strip, causes it to bend and break the circuit, then as it cools it touches a terminal again and heats up till it breaks circuit. When the car's voltage is higher it heats up quicker and provides powwer to the clocks for less time. It's basically a thermally regulated flasher unit........ 0V....12V.......0V...14V..........0V and so on. Hence a normal gauge designed for DC won't allow you to tell if it is working properly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick86 Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) Yes that's how they work but the voltage should not fluctuate by that much On the gauge that's the reason the stabiliser is fitted to stop that. The output on the terminal leading to the clocks should read 10v or there abouts if the voltage follows the input power it's not working right Edited March 23, 2012 by Nick86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Yes that's how they work but the voltage should not fluctuate by that much Yes it should. That's how they work. There are no electronics in them They are on...... Battery Voltage (which obviouls varies) then off. It pulses. The RMS value if a kind of average if you like between the Ov and Battery Volts. Your advice could lead people to discard perfectly good voltage stabilisers. Only an RMS gauge can read 10V ish on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB15 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 As Harry hill say's FighT , Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 As Harry hill say's FighT , Kev As if there was any doubt. In the one corner we have "Not sure if it has a screw in the bottom" and in the other corner "Knows what the screw is for" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Just been checking on RMS on Google, frightened the life out of me!! So I have decided to use my own gauge to test them, It's called a Mk1 Cavalier, simple piece of kit, there is a place under the dash, where you plug the unit in, then you have a look at the gauges on the dash, and they tell you if it's good or not. SORTED. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick86 Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 I understand what you are saying that as input power changes the contact breaker heats and cools compleating or breaking the circuit causing constant changes to voltage. The point I was making was that these variations happen to fast for you to pick up while testing you should however be able to pick up an "average" power output wich should be around 10v. This is how I sorted mine out and it now works fine and accurately. But if you insist I will revise my advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick86 Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 As if there was any doubt. In the one corner we have "Not sure if it has a screw in the bottom" and in the other corner "Knows what the screw is for" That was spiney-norman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Some take a while to warm up to even start working, but as all the fuel and temp gauges are also a heated bi metallic strip that responds slowly this damps the appearance of the output. However, on some cars at idle or ignition lights on you can see the gauges throb and they still work ok. The best test without an RMS gauge is to fit it and I think use a 40 Ohm resistor....... but that's another story. You may also find that gauges read wrong after a couple of years of frying with a defective one, so the best bet is an adjustable solid state one, get the car up to temp and adjust so temp needle is spot on. Cost less than about £1.50 each. Some designs on the net just buy a 3 leg triac and solder one leg to each terminal, no adjustability for a constant 10V no adjustable for probably 50p (not recommending that) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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