mantaboy89 Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 I've converted my 79 cav to injection off an 85 gte, have fuel upto the injectors and have voltage to them but don't seem to be injecting fuel, the only plug ive had to wire in myself is a four pin plug with 1 black wire to 1 pin, 2 green to pin 2 White wire to pin 3 And a black and red wire and white wire to pin 4 Can someone tell me where these are to wire to so I can double check as i am getting Pist off with it now, lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Search is your friend. http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/21402-fuel-pump-electrics/page__p__155381__hl__%2Bloom+%2Bplug__fromsearch__1#entry155381 However, are you hearing the fuel pump run?? What have you done ignition wise? Are you aware if the ballast resistor wire if your car had points initially? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 The loom of the manta is very easy to fiddle with as it is colour coded. Black n red goes on the starter wire with same colours, green on green, black on black, white however should go to the pump but i am not 100% sure on this. I have always fed my pumps live with a switch under the driver seat so a car thief would have his trouble getting the car to start up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 so a car thief would have his trouble getting the car to start up Unless they read your previous post in this open section. Hint:edit button Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Unless they read your previous post in this open section. Hint:edit button Dont think so as i am located in Denmark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Dont think so as i am located in Denmark True, what are the chances some one with an interest in Mantas from Denmark would read a UK based car forum........... pretty good as you are here and it is third match down on google this morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 (edited) What does my car look like ? The one in my avatar is for my project A series and is a digimod Edited November 7, 2011 by monzta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Right, all four wires on the four pin plug going to the right place, green to green, blck/red to blck/red, white to fuel pump via a fuse and ran a new wire from black to black spade connector on coil, fuel pump, relay,ignition all fine, what's the score with this translucent wire? And what order do the wires go on the coil, I have it green, black/black, black/translucent, is this correct? Where do the injectors recieve injecting signal from? As ive got plenty of fuel pressure in the lines but nothing getting to the bore, sparks good and have had it firing off the dreaded easy start. Please somebody help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Also, any ideas the best place to mount the ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Also, any ideas the best place to mount the ecu? The standard place - inside of drivers A pillar Right, all four wires on the four pin plug going to the right place, green to green, blck/red to blck/red, white to fuel pump via a fuse and ran a new wire from black to black spade connector on coil, fuel pump, relay,ignition all fine, what's the score with this translucent wire? And what order do the wires go on the coil, I have it green, black/black, black/translucent, is this correct? Where do the injectors recieve injecting signal from? As ive got plenty of fuel pressure in the lines but nothing getting to the bore, sparks good and have had it firing off the dreaded easy start. Please somebody help. Translucent wire............. The translucent wire is usually crimped into a terminal with a black wire. The black wire is 12V cranking BUT is not used once started. The translucent wire is a resistor so it drops the voltage so as not to burn points......... ............That's why when I asked what you were using for ignition you needed to tell me so I can help However, if it was mine I would put tha black that you have added to the coil to +12 temporarily to test and leave the coil wiring as standard as I assume you are still using the points Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 What ? Points ? You will never get it running good with a points ignition. You need the electronic one with hallsensor, otherwise it will run like crap.. Tryed it once, and even got the car running, but changed to electronic ignition asap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Swapped all ignition over to gte stuff, gte distibuter, coil ignition module etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Swapped all ignition over to gte stuff, gte distibuter, coil ignition module etc Then you need to isolate the translucent wire from the coil end and have added a 12V ingition live to the coil Please confirm if this is done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) Haven't done this yet, so remove the translucent wire, fit standerd wire from barrel to coil, should I connect this to the other black wire that already goes to the coil? Would this wire stop the injectors then? Edited November 8, 2011 by mantaboy89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Haven't done this yet, so remove the translucent wire, fit standerd wire from barrel to coil, should I connect this to the other black wire that already goes to the coil? Would this wire stop the injectors then? If it was mine........ If the coil has two spade connectors on the side where the translucent and black wire terminal go then snip the translucent one off against the terminal and insulate the end. Leave it there so some one can easily reverse things in the future if required. Run an ignition live to the other terminal on that side of the coil. If the coil has only one spade connector on that side snip off the black wire against the terminal and insulate the terminal left on the end of the translucent wire so some one can easily reverse things in the future if required. Run a new ignition live, strip the end of the original black wire and the new ignition live and crimp them both into one terminal. And the black from the injection loom needs to be getting this +12V too But it's not mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 Right, wiring so far, 4 pin plug from ecu- Green to green Black/red to black/red White to fuel pump Black to 2nd spade terminal of gte coil, this also has another black connected going to the ignition module Cut translucent wire and issolated, added an ignition live to black wire from original car loom and they go to 1st spade terminal of coil, Green wire from 3rd pin goes to ignition module and to a green to the original car loom, is all this correct as my battery is now flat and will not turn over. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 (edited) Right, wiring so far, 4 pin plug from ecu- Green to green Black/red to black/red White to fuel pump Black to 2nd spade terminal of gte coil, this also has another black connected going to the ignition module Cut translucent wire and issolated, added an ignition live to black wire from original car loom and they go to 1st spade terminal of coil, Green wire from 3rd pin goes to ignition module and to a green to the original car loom, is all this correct as my battery is now flat and will not turn over. lol Sounds about right to me. Should be able to start it up (when you get some juice on the battery again ). You should set your ignition on the marks for a 100% guaranteed startup if the engine. Right behind your starter engine is a hole in the engine block where you can see your flywheel. Put the car in 4th or 5th gear and push it slowly so you can see your flywheel turning. When a small shiny steel ball come to show that is your mark. Should be placed where a triangular shaped point is. Then remove your distributor cap and see if the rotor points on that little mark made in the edge of your ignition housing. Otherwise turn until the rotor point straight at the mark. Also when you connect the distributor cap again, the ignition wire plug above this point is cyl 1. The from there you place your ignition wires 1-3-4-2. When started it will iddle a little high, so turn you ignition while the engine is iddling clockwise until your rev counter says 900rpm. Then it is perfect. For information, the black that goes into the car loom is the signal wire from the ignition switch (your key). The green one that goes into the car loom is for your rev counter as this get its signal from the pulses of the green wire current (ign pulses). Red/Black is for your starter engine, and this is connected so that the injectors will get signal to spray all injectors for a short while as the engine cranks. (like when you use quickstart spray or similar Edited November 9, 2011 by monzta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 Will try n fire her up tomoz n let u all know, fingers crossed, thanks for the help so far, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 (edited) Tried to stary her today but still no fuel from injectors, instead ive noticed my tank pissing out fuel when on an angle, anyone got a good injection tank for hatch, and any ideas why my car still wont run? Edited November 10, 2011 by mantaboy89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Tried to stary her today but still no fuel from injectors, instead ive noticed my tank pissing out fuel when on an angle, anyone got a good injection tank for hatch, and any ideas why my car still wont run? have you got the ring terminal on the red wire from the injection under the same terminal as the battery lead goes to on the starter? Have you got the ring terminal on the brown wire bolted securely to the plenum on the runner below the cold start injector? (That also earths the injectors) Have you manually set permanent power to the fuel pump temporarily to make sure it's not a temperamental injection relay? Have you screwed the ECU down? Not sure it needs to earth through the case but not sure it doesn't either. Have you still got a spark? Have you checked your leads (or dizzy) aren't 180 degress out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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