50 replies to this topic

[dog321fish]

Surely you can not be selling this car because of a failed headlight switch after all the effort you have put in?

[Julian]

dog321fish, on 03 November 2011 - 09:42 AM, said:

Surely you can not be selling this car because of a failed headlight switch after all the effort you have put in?

I don't think he will, he's a Manta Man, he WILL fix it

[Manta again]

The headlight switch had failed again but the question was why. A huge thankyou to Daivd from Mantasport for his persistent and accurate advice. The relay for the spot lights had gone wrong this had somehow led to overloading the light circuit but even with a new switch in the headlights did not come on By tracing the wires and using the mulitmeter I discovered that this overloading of the circuit had burnt out the connection for the headlights at the mulitpin connector under the steering column. By cutting the wires and re-making the connection I am pleased to say night vision has been restored.

Hopefully now we can get on with enjoying driving the car until the next glitch.

thank you again to all who contributed and encouraged me through a difficult week.

[Manta again]

I thought all my troubles were over but there back.I have just had a spate of not starting again. Just to fill you in my wife went out in the hatch on christmas eve delivering cards etc. she made about 10 stops and at the last one you guessed it no starting had to bump start her in a gravel car park which was only 4 times the length of the car!!!!! So after christmas decided to fit a secret push button started which runs from a swicthed live direct to the exciter terminal on the starter. In testing everything worked fine. then yesterday the car failed to turn over using either the original key starter or the new secret but totally useless emergency starter button. Bump starting a car in the Waitrose car park is not my idea of fun... cause everyone rushed to help . What is going on HHHEEEELLLLPPPP

[Manta again]

Ok getting really fed up the car now needs bump starting nearly every time it goes out.
To recap it does this on both the new and old starter motor. I have put new earth straps both from battery to body work and bodywork to engine. A starter button has been installed which runs from a switched feed direct to the exciter terminal on the starter but makes no difference when the problem occurs.. All connections to the starter motor have been cleaned, cables cut and connections remade. The car always starts when cold. What am I missing.

[dog321fish]

Have you tried replacing the ignition module? and if so did you use thermal paste?

Edited by dog321fish, 30 January 2012 - 11:35 AM.

[mantasrme]

If it starts when bumped it shouldn't be the ignition pack.

When it doesn't turn over does the starter solenoid fire (is there a big click) or is there nothing at all?
If it does fire do the dash lights dim or go out, if they do the starter motor doesn't have enough power to crank the engine over when everythings warm.
You could try a 2nd battery and jump leads just to check if lack of power is the issue, a new heavy duty battery should solve the issue.

Had this with my old mk2 escort started fine cold but once warm wouldn't turn over if anything else was turned on, and that was with a big heavy duty battery fitted.

If there's no click even from the direct feed through your button then i'd say the starter motor is at fault.

[Manta again]

I have overcome the problem but not found the source of the problem . I have taken a direct feed from the battery to the starter button thereby by passing the entire engine cranking position on the ignition switch but have been unable to identify exactly where this circuit is breaking down. But at long last my long suffering wife can go out in the car safe in the knowledge that she is not going to get stranded and I'm relieved that I don't get called out to bump start her several times a week

[madmantamik]

i had a very similiar problem on a mk2 astra some years ago it turned out to be the ignition switch contacts themselves, when the key was turned to the cranking position the feed was lost to the coil ,so no matter how much it was cranked it could not fire

[dog321fish]

Hi Manta again

Is this what you have now done?

"Installed a starter button which runs from a live feed direct from the battery to the exciter terminal on the starter"

Most starter button kits include a relay, is this not required?

What thickness wire have you used?, As you can tell electrics are not my strong point!

Cheers

Dave

Edited by dog321fish, 04 February 2012 - 03:55 PM.

[cam.in.head]

examine carefully the connection on the 6mm wire on the solenoid.this is on the same large terminal as the pos battery lead.it sends power to everything inside the car.(fusebox,ignition switch)if this terminal is not 100% it can cause intermittent loss of power to all circuits & sometimes make the ign lamp glow .if in doubt run an extra wire from this terminal & join it to the PERMANENT live on the connector that the ign switch plugs into.