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Hello Form New Zealand - Manta Gsi Project


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#161 robah

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 09:34 PM

View Postopelmantagsi, on 28 March 2012 - 05:17 AM, said:

similar to a cosworth brake conversion undertaken in the UK by another Manta owner.
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Can I enquire on what brake cable you have used, is it the standard type or have you had to mod it?
I ask as my rear brakes are similar and set up near enough the same
Cheers

Rob

#162 611

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 12:10 AM

Looks nice, just been trying to work out how to fit the brake lines on mine as didnt want to use weld on tabs. The brackets look the way to go.
Are you going to run the brake lines under the car or inside? been looking at getting mine all inside as it will be nice and clean underneath then.

Hey Rob
running sierra 4x4 calipers on mine and the standard brake cable fits fine, you need the bits from the standard backing plate that the cable fits in, if you have the sierra ones. got a few pics of mine on here. www.theopelproject.com just do a search for brakes and the rear discs should come up.

Andy

Edited by 611, 26 April 2012 - 12:17 AM.


#163 opelmantagsi

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 12:15 AM

using Mk3 VW golf GTi cables, right and left side, with custom made bracket onto the standard handbrake rod under the car, more details to follow when I get to that part, I dont think its going to be that easy to be honest, the German destructions are not detailed, you will find them here
http://forums.mantac...__fromsearch__1

For my situation - The ends of the cables must have balls not eyes (funny when I read that again, it sounds a lot like ME!)

Original hand brake cable brackets wont work, need to use combination of bolt through P clips and weld on tabs

Audi discs, re drilled to 4x100

rear brake pipe route will be beside the fuel pipe, run where the injection fuel return pipe normally goes, up the A pillar and connect to brake bias pedal box
fronts will be inside the car on the bulk head from the brake bias pedal box

using bulk head fittings where I go through sheetmetal, so get a nice seal and a union connection each side, same fitting used on the L brackets used on the rear axle in pics

using copper nickle pipe (Cupro) with 37 degree flares which is aviation / american high performance standards to suit the fittings, watch out for standard flare tools as they are 42.5 degree from memory and no good for the high spec fittings, standard brake flares or double flares not being used for this reason

Edited by opelmantagsi, 26 April 2012 - 12:49 AM.


#164 opelmantagsi

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 05:11 AM

major milestone achieved today 26th April 2012
will get some more pics when it returns etch primed
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#165 opelmantagsi

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 11:41 PM

here is my concept for a front guard mounted air inlet flange
will insert some insect mesh behind the logo inside to finish off, connect silicone hose behind
will be different

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#166 611

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 11:44 PM

Hey Looks nice.
Who makes all the parts for you?

Andy

#167 opelmantagsi

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 12:18 AM

I have a guy that makes stuff in his workshop, can do most materials but we have only used Delrin & Billet Ali on this car so far
my son does the computer stuff from my "old school" pen and paper sketches

if I can think it, draw it on the back of a fag packet, those boys can sort it out from there for me :lol:

Edited by opelmantagsi, 29 April 2012 - 12:20 AM.


#168 611

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 11:54 AM

Must be nice to be able to do that. my dad use to be an engineer and turned up lots of bits for me in his lunch break! but he retired a few years ago and now spends most of his time playing golf!! Its had to find some one to do little one off jobs like that near me. they either arnt interested or charge you a fortune!

The cars looking like its coming along well, i bet you'll when its been blasted and you can then crack on with finishing off the body work. I had the underneath of mine done but didnt risk the rest as its got a lot of filler in the body and would have had a shed load more work to do :-)

Andy

#169 Rab

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 10:39 PM

Great project, and yons gangin tae bi wan fine Hatch when done.

#170 opelmantagsi

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 07:20 PM

this finally arrived from the USA this week, 5 months to get here, just as well I was not in a rush.
the product is tintable, its a very light grey colour so popped into my local automotive paint supplier and he checked the product and fixed me up with 500mls of white tint
planning to use this inside the car as no carpets being fitted.

more info at http://semproducts.c...truckbed-liner/

took me a long time to track this product down, didn't want the run of the mill black and wanted a urethane product where by most bed liner products are epoxy

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this was purchased through the local Eastwood supplier in NZ, this is the same product on the Eastwood website Tintable Truck Bed Liner Kit Item #10258 ZP

#171 opelmantagsi

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:36 AM

waiting to get my shell back from media blaster and other parts to arrive so decided to strip 2 x wiring looms.
we will be adding and removing some circuits and extending cables due to revised cable routes and want to retain the wiring loom color coding.
wiring to rear will be up over the roof, not the floor pan and concealing wires in bulkhead rather than in engine bay, adding modern disconnect plugs here and there and should be nicer when done
doing some interesting things with the wiring on this car, deleting the ignition key completely and wiring in a way that the car cannot be started without inserting a dongle
bucket of black tape removed from both, will use white tape next time
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#172 opelmantagsi

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 07:18 PM

here is a link to a web site you may be interested in.
introducing Dirk Reimann an ex Opel Factory Technician now residing in NZ and the owner of the one and only LHD 2.2 Manta Coupe in NZ
Dirk is helping me out with the wiring look on this project and some other bits and pieces
I have been able to help him out with some spares for his car, so we are doing our best to help each other out.

enjoy

http://opel-manta-b.jimdo.com/

#173 opelmantagsi

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 07:19 AM

car body back
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#174 opelmantagsi

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 08:48 AM

upon further investigation, pitting in the front chassis legs = removal for repair
the problem lies with the leg being double skin and basically impossible to repair correctly without removal, bit of work to do here now to get it to a stage that I am happy the body is structurally sound
thankfully the jacking points are sound and the car is not as bad as I have seen in the UK
a bit of a set back but is better to tackle this now than leave it to become a major issue further down the track

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#175 Kevin Abbott

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 06:19 PM

Fantastic investigative work going on their.
Won't be many places for the rust bug to be hiding now!


#176 opelmantagsi

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 04:59 AM

cleaned up the underside of the floor pan and then decided the roof skin was a bit on the flexible side without the roof vent fitted, needed to be a bit more rigid for preparation sanding so decided to take a trip to the breaker to see what I could find, removed a roof rail from an Astra G as it was nice and thin, but still wide enough, welded on some tabs and spot welded the ends to the same rail the other one is fitted too. put some mastic in the back, like the originals and its made a big difference.
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#177 opelmantagsi

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:01 AM

modified the remote adjuster so it can become NZ "road legal" rules say the adjuster needs to be locked / disabled while driving on road, simple grub screw into a locator at rear will do the trick
could not find a lockable remote adjuster anywhere so decided to try this.
PVC boss to replace air vent to mount the adjuster knob, the boss, joint and the complete dash will be flocked over to make it look as if supposed to be there.
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this arrived today, bit off needing it tho
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#178 opelmantagsi

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:03 PM

while I am waiting to get my chassis rail back from the media blaster, I decided to replace the Audi Girling 38 rear brake caliper seals.
one reason I needed to do this was the rear calipers are tapped 8mm for brake hoses, the Goodrich braided hose kit came with 10mm banjo bolts and connections to suit, which was a bit of a let down.
the easiest option for me was to make the holes to suit the banjo bolts, so that process = full caliper strip down to clean.
these are pretty simple to work on when you have the correct tools, the inner most circlip is a bit tricky to get out but time and patience was all that was needed.
the caliper repair kit was sourced again from bigred in the UK, they charge like wounded bulls for these bits in NZ.
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#179 opelmantagsi

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Posted Yesterday, 10:15 AM

shed before the Manta took over

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here is one when the shed was first built

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