Rob36

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Rob36 last won the day on September 20 2015

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About Rob36

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    N Wales
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    Rob

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  1. Sorted! The quarterlight windows are now sporting the reprotec lever fixings and hinges - work a treat tbh! I went down Plumbsters route and used little bolts to attatch the plastic handle, I tried the rollpins, but tbh I was very worried about bending the fixing or even breaking the window as I drove them in. Bolts will be easier to disasemble too if I ever need to. Thanks for the helps chaps!
  2. Ah thats brilliant!! Nice one Plumster! It is the same - and its just been bought! :)) Ive just noticed that the same people do replacement hinges - but ones that can be bonded to both sides of the pane rather than just the outer side. Anyone used them? Are they worth a punt? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-Quarterlight-Bracket-Rubbers-Opel-Ascona-A-B-Manta-B-Corsa-A-Rekord-D-E/352055697105?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  3. ok cool. Ive just done a search and can get a sheet of 1.5mm viton. I reckon I need 2x outer washers at 1.5mm thickness, plus a spacer at 3mm thickness to sleeve the stem that passes through the window. Ill cut my own and double up the centre sleeve from the 1.5. Thanks again. Its been emotional.
  4. Thanks for the reply doc - told you it wasnt straightforward! The external bit is actually not too bad, but Im fairly sure that it locks together with the interior bit with the screw being the only free moving part. I need to remove it because the cushioning rubber has fallen apart so the whole thing has play and is grinding with the window pane. i need to remove it to insert rubber washers/spacer in there. Both sides unfortunately. Id thought about using a bolt to replace the bar - but a roll pin might provide a neater solution. Thanks for your patience dude.
  5. ok dude. Ill add a couple of pics. Id already removed the window, that indeed was easy, especially as the hinges were free from the window already. The tricky bit is removing the catch from the pane. As you can see, you'd struggle to fit a stubby in there, and gaining sufficient purchase from between the plastic pieces is proving difficult. The metal bar is flared at the ends, and tapping it through is possible, but its widening the plastic as it passes though so will be loose when re-assembled. It's not as easy as you suggested doc! However, I do need to solve this problem, so Im gonna persist - as getting my windows right is more important to me than risking looking a like a nob on this forum! http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4785/3zwhso74_jpg.htm http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4785/homieiei_jpg.htm
  6. Thanks for the reply Mantadoc. I guess there's a chance I'm missing something here, and it can be done as you're suggesting, but I just can't see how any screwdriver could access the screw effectively. The plastic handle for the catch is hinged directly above via a metal bar that passes directly over the screw head - with no more than a couple of mil access space. I tried tapping the bar out to remove the plastic from but it's flared at either end and It was starting to widen the plastic as I knocked it through. Maybe a pic would be a good idea...
  7. Hi all. my rear quarter windows are giving me a bit of grief! The little chrome hinges have come away from the glass, which I intend to re-bond with tiger seal. Before I could manage it though I noticed that the rubber grommet that cushions where the open/shut lever passes through the glass at the rear of the window has perished to mush, so there's a bit of play there now and horrible 'metal on glass' sounds when I open and shut the window. Anyone know the correct way to remove the lever from the window so I can replace the rubber? There's a crosshead screw there, but it's completely inaccessible due to the lever handle being directly above it!?
  8. Thanks for the info chaps - I think I understand it all - and what I dont will probably become clearer on the job! Doesnt sound tooo bad, although Id hoped the prop would fit. Looks like a few bits would need o be sourced then - Im in no rush though really. Just wether to pick up this box if its still available... decisions decision!! lol
  9. Hi all! Just wondering how big a job it is to convert the cavvy to 5 speed manual? More importantly, how much fabrication/ alteration to the tunnel is required? I noticed a getrag box from a GTE was available quite local to me... and while going manual is quite an attractive thought , I'm not sure if I'd go for it unless it was pretty reversible without too much drama in case I ever want to sell her on. Original cars are a rare commodity these days sfter all! Any thoughts are welcome!! Always nice to hear opinions on these things
  10. Thanks for the input guys! Looking at the replacement wing I have, it is indeed an original (thanks for the info on that Cam-in-head!) and is from a base model - its got a pin stripe rather than rub strips, and no arch trim of course. Im pleased its original though! Hopefully the arch trim will swap over ok with some careful drilling. The car is packed away for the winter, but I might make a start on the wing shortly, time allowing. - Ill keep you posted
  11. Im not 100% sure if its a pattern wing or an original. I picked it up off ebay recently - I'd assumed it was. Yeah, the lip on this one is just over 1cm, but it curls up a bit at the edge - quite prominently so at the topmost part of the arch. The one currently on my car doesnt do that, and from memory is more like 2cm like you say yours are.
  12. Hi all. Just wondeing if anyone else has encountered this. I have a '78 Cavalier Coupe. Ive sourced a replacement front NS wing for it, as the current one has had a repair and old filler is expanding along the top edge. The new wing is also from a Cavalier, but the lip on the wheel arch is smaller - too narrow in fact for me to rivet the chrome arch trim to it! has anyone else had this problem? Any clever ways around it? Id prefer not to start cutting the two wings up to make one good one if I can help it... Thanks in advance guys!
  13. Hi guys! As in the title really. My '78 Cav Coupe is collecting water behind the windscreen sealing rubber down the drivers a pillar. Its leaking v slowly out of the bottom. I only noticed it yesterday, looks like its wet underneath the seal. all down the length of the pillar. Doesnt appear to be laking inside the car. Ive never tackled window seals really (bar removing bonded windows for racing), so not sure how best to tackle it given that new ones are unlikely to be available. Any one sorted a prob like this? I few pointers would be v handy! thanks!!
  14. Hi Paul. Cheers for the info bud!
  15. Hi all. Im hoping to pick the brains of anyone whos in the know! Mk mk1 Cavvy coupe has had brake issues recently - front calipers seized, causing everything to get rather hot. Theyre now unseized & cleaned up, sliders and whatnot are ok, but the seals etc have melted and an overhaul is needed - I was just wondering about possible upgrades to more modern disks / calipers? Is there anything bolt-on that fits under the standard 13ins rostyles? I had quite a long search on here - found plenty on Audi disks and vectra calipers, but also read they dont fit under 13s! The car is a standard 1900 auto at present, so nothing OTT is needed. Can anyone suggest anything? Otherwise I guess Ill attempt to sort these with a refurb kit. Must admit I havent got too much experience messing around with calipers etc, but I guess theres only one way to learn!