611

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611 last won the day on July 13 2016

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About 611

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    http://www.theopelproject.com/

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  1. Thought i best post and engine pic as well :-)
  2. Yep, i hope to get out this weekend and start to disconnect everything and then next weekend i hope to drop the whole front suspension and box and get the clutch and flywheel off. When i have i will take some pics and drop you a message if you're interested in it. I need to look back and see what i bought them both for as i will sell them for what i paid for them. Andy
  3. I dont think there is any difference between the 1.6 sump and the 2ltr, i might be wrong but thought they were all the same. You will need to sort the dipstick out on the 2.4 as the original dipstick hole is further back so you need to have a hole drilled in the same location as the 1.6 block, you also ned the oil pickup from the 1.6 or 2 ltr (again i think they are the same?) as the Frontera one won't fit. You might also need to look at the thermostat housing as the head on the 2.4 is not the same inlet as the 1.6/2ltr you can but an adapted one to fit the 2.4 http://www.risse-motorsport.de/product_info.php/info/p2406_Thermostat-casing-2-2-2-4-CIH.html I ran a 2.1 with an uprated standard clutch with about 150bhp and never had any issues, but the 2.4 had way more torque so like Chris says there is far more chance of the 2.4 killing the clutch and when you have that 5 speed in there its not a quick job to drop the box and change the clutch. Andy Hi Chris Nic on here was kind enough to bring it over for me so no duty just the cost of the kit and it is from Opel GT. http://www.opelgtsource.com/store/gt/clutch/CIH-9.html I think its just the monza flywheel machine flat, drilled for the dowels etc.. and then the S10 cover and plate you can just by from Autozone in the US and other places so it might be worth getting the cover and plate from the US and having a flywheel sorted out over here as when i looked into it originally it was more for the shipping that the flywheel and clutch! I will get a pic from the autozone receipt and the box so you can track down the one needed as Nic said there were two type and the part number was the identifier. I should be able to do that tomorrow or saturday and will drop you a message. Im going for the better safe than sorry with mine as hope to be up in the 180 bhp when fully running with the Alpha throttle bodies and ENEM cam all setup. Andy
  4. Got one coming off soon. I have a spare im having painted to go on the A so will have one spare. Looks like this. But better condition!! Andy
  5. The flywheel size will be the same physical size if its a 1.6, 2.0 or 2.4 but the actual clutch on the 1.6 will only be an 8" 4 bolt which the 2.4 will just tear up. You need at least a Monza flywheel that will take a 9" 4 bolt but ideally a 6 bolt clutch. lamchop77 is your man for clutch info. What power are you looking at? Im just about to drop my engine and remove a brand new 9" clutch and monza flywheel as i have bought an S10 clutch kit from Opel GT Source in the US. It uses a machined monza flywheel that has been drilled to take the Chevy S10 as im going for being on the safe side as mine is running a bit of a different setup than just the standard injection on it. A couple of pics here. First off the standard Monza flywheel and 9" then the Monza flywheel machined flat and dowelled to take the S10 kit. and if you have a few spare hours lots of reading here S10 setup hope some of this helps. I also have the Frontera manual if you need any sections on the 2.4 copied. Andy
  6. Does look nice, but as you say £15K is a bit steep. Best not tell the missus there worth that much or she might try to sell mine :-)
  7. Hey Nick It's looking very nice :-) Did you get the info on the hose clamps? ( https://www.wirecare.com/searches?utf8=✓&search[term]=gates ) I found this link while skimming through your post and think i might be able to find a few things i need on there :-) http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/ I have managed to get the brakes sorted on mine, so its now the hydraulic clutch to sort and then i think im going to drop the engine and box and fit that clutch kit before i get her on the road :-) So im starting to get going on it again. I might even get her running for the summer!! Andy
  8. Depending on what you are doing with the 2.4 (cabs, injection?) and what state it is in? The 2.4 can get a bit expensive (different inlets, thermostat housing etc..) and if its not rebuilt already the pistons scuff the bores on higher milage ones and are quite expensive to replace (as i found out!) so unless its all built up i would be inclined to go with a tuned 2ltr. Cheaper to build and probably easier to get parts for. More bottom end so im told from the 2.4 but does not rev as high as the 2.0 Just my thoughts. Andy
  9. Don't forget that the A has the antiroll bar at the back unlike the B, so i think that will all need a change around. A lot of the german cars run the 6 cylinder CIH, not sure what BHP they are putting out. A V6 might be the easier option for the A rather than the V8? Do the chassis rails sit up higher on the A? Just a few thoughts. Andy
  10. Hey Johnboy Thanks for the pic, nice looking A :-) I think you are right, something to do with there being too much wheel for the arch. Maybe a 16 might just do but i think this has helped me to stick with the 15's and it will save me a few quid by not changing :-) Thanks Andy
  11. Hi Anyone running 17" wheels on an A Series? If so what tyres and what issues have you come across? Im currently running 17x7J with 205 x 50 types and i know these scrub the front lower valance on full lock (mostly when reversing) i was just toying with the idea of some nice 17" ones for Christmas!! but didn't want to get them and then have to sort out any issues the hard way :-) Having had a look around im not sure the 17's would suite the A? i found this pic and it looks like they could be 17's and i think it looks like the wheels are too big for a standard car? thoughts? and mine on the 15's (this is how it use to look!! and now, i have dropped the front about 2" now) Thanks Andy
  12. The 2.4 can get expensive on carbs unless its a complete setup you already have, not sure on the injection, will it fit under the bonnet? I dont think the standard 2.4 on injection gives you much power? If you're running the 2lt i would go with win carbs. Quite cheap to do, sounds nice and i would think more power than the standard injection. But im sure there will be some more comments with more info coming along. Andy
  13. **CASE NOW SOLVED!** :-) i have now found a brand new mounting bracket part on ebay, so happy days Im after the Manta A accelerator part that bolts to the bulk head as mine has one of the mounting holes broken off, so i anyone has got a good one laying around please drop me a message. Thanks Andy
  14. Thanks for looking mate. As luck would have it i got in touch with Thomas at http://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/ and he has tracked me down one. So im all sorted thanks. Looks like something brake related? Andy
  15. As shug says, you might as well pull the tank out now as you will need to do it some time. Drain it first as its just the one strap and filler neck holding it up there, so quite heavy if you have fuel left in it. I've heard that gasless welders are not great for lots of welding so i would consider adding gas and maybe watch a few reviews. You will probably best going for cutting out the rot and just spotting the panels in place while you get the hang of the welder and then finishing them off later rather than jumping straight in and trying to get it all welded in one go. It takes a while to get confident with it. Get a good mask that darkens when you strike the welder as its so much easier than using one that just dark all the time. Andy ps. and a nice warm garage :-)