OMOC Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


moodoo last won the day on January 13

moodoo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

24 Excellent

About moodoo

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Hi Eddie, I had a similar problem with my engine a few years ago. It would run fine for a while, then start to cough, splutter, and the engine would die. After a few minutes (maybe 10 or 15) it would restart, and be OK again, but the problem could happen again a short time later. It turned out that the wiring to the fuel pump was damaged, at the connector where it goes into the pump. It meant that instead of all the strands of wire carrying the current, there were only 2 or 3 still connected. So those pieces of wire were getting hot, resistance was increasing, and eventually the pump couldn't draw enough current, and the car would die. Once it stopped, and the wiring cooled down, it would be OK again for a while. Another thing that someone suggested to me at the time was to check the pick-up filter in the fuel tank. If it were sucking dirt, the filter could get clogged. Once the car stops, the dirt could tend to fall away from the filter and back into the tank. Then it could get enough fuel to restart, until again the filter became clogged. Also, check the ignition amplifier. It is mounted to a heatsink in the engine bay, and there is supposed to be some heatsink compound underneath it. Eventually the heatsink compound dries out, and the ignition amplifier can overheat. I guess maybe this could produce a similar failure to what is happening yours? Hope this helps...good luck! Fin
  2. Blue no more!? Cool new colour though... You mentioned lower door skins are available, where from?
  3. Nice work! The door looks like its pretty crusty, are you making any other repair sections, or are they available to buy somewhere?
  4. Wow, 7 hours on one door alone! I haven't managed 7 hours in my garage I'd say the last 3 months put together! Nice work, keep the pics coming, gives someone like me with a 'some day' project a bit if inspiration...
  5. Still looks like a tasty bit of work to me! I have an A-series that some year I'll build up, have a redtop engine for it...I might pick your brain a bit at some stage about yours if you don't mind?
  6. ah nasty...tough lines on the paint! About the piece you made for the someone with next to no fabrication skills, I love how people like you who know what they're doing can just make pieces like this! How do you make the curved flange at the top, on the inside, did you slit it too? I know from your main build thread that you could probably do this sort of stuff with your eyes closed! I'm surprised to see your car needs what looks like a fair bit of work, when I saw you posting the photos first, it looked really sharp. Fin
  7. Thanks Andy. If you still have it out could you measure the full length too?
  8. I thought the r25/r28 box was used to mate up to a 16v, not a CIH?
  9. ...When I try to click on the pdf Nick provided, I get an error, saying my account doesn't have access: 'The page you are trying to access is not available for your account' Anyone else have that issue?
  10. What's the benefit of the updated one over the standard?
  11. Aaaah...I knew I read somewhere the a series auto prop was good for something! Just not my car by the sounds of it! ...ok, will need to add a propshaft to my shopping list regardless what engine I go for....thanks for the info...
  12. Thanks Chris and Andy. Chris - I don't have a 5-speed box myself yet. I'm just trying to figure out what way to go with the car. I have a 16V engine and 1.8 box, both in unknown condition, and a known 'good' 1.9 CIH, although that could do with a freshen-up too. Just trying to figure out what the financial/time/performance pros/cons are. On the GTE/1.8 prop, any idea of they need length changing for an A-series 16V conversion, or are they 'bolt on'? Andy - no panic mate! If you were able to measure the prop that would be appreciated, at least then I'd know if the prop in the auto is any good or not. Good luck with the clutch swap...take pictures!
  13. Pretty much the same as that... When I built my 2.2, I used a Monza 9" flywheel and a standard 4-bolt clutch on it. My engine is just standard, and I'm not driving the wheels off it, but no issues to date.
  14. My A-series has a remote reservoir sitting on the inner wing, it's from a jaguar of some sort. The master cylinder has 2 plastic push-in 90deg fittings, and the standard rubber seals. I don't know what the fittings are off though. I think I read on here somewhere that some flavour of Renault Megane (??) had a remote reservoir setup, the fittings from which could be used?
  15. Guys, I have an automatic A-series with a seized engine, and one of these years I will rebuild it... Options from this point are either a CIH engine or a 16V XE, both using 5-speed manual box. Questions... 1) If I want to use a 5-speed Getrag box with the CIH, will my A-series auto propshaft fit? I've seen on the forum one mention of an A-series auto prop fitting, but many more of using an auto B-series. Will either work, or only 1? 2) If I go 16V, I know I'll need a 1.8 box. What propshaft would I need for that - a GTE one, or a 1.8 one, or are they the same? Thanks, Fin