mantasrme

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mantasrme last won the day on May 6

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About mantasrme

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    Manta Nut

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    http://www.mantasport.co.uk
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    Male
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    Harrogate, North Yorkshire
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    Rally cars, oh and Manta's
  • Name
    David Howell

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  1. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  2. Its not a forum thing, Its a new Photobucket limit for hosting pics saved on their site onto other sites. Basically they are trying to get you to pay them so your links will work again. All i think it will achieve is to piss even more people off with Photbucket than already were. Self hosting on your own webspace is the only way to be in complete control of your pics. But moving all those pics and editing every post with the new addresses is never going to happen which has affected a lot of good build projects on many forums already
  3. The nose of the 5 speed prop is 38mm, outside measurement of manta rear gearbox oil seal is 52mm
  4. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  5. Yes, reaching over from roof side with hoist i would lift the shell slightly from that point, just enough to remove the upper spit mount out of the rail. Then lower again leaving lower spit mount and ust touch the axle stand, but leave the hoist under tension too. I think that would be easily sufficient to hold the shell in alignment while taking the full rail out and not needed a lot of bracing welded on to hold it in place.
  6. Yeah push out roll pin and its easy enough to do. Lots of people use their double sided hinges, much better to stick on than trying to re-attach the originals.
  7. If the shell is generally solid apart from the chassis rails then it will have no problem on the jig. I tend to do one chassis rail at a time, leaving the other one there for body strength. If the shell is rotten in various area's the bits i always do before mounting on spit are the inner wings, and wing mounting rails. They put a lot of strength into the front end to prevent movement when you have a jig mounted to the front of the chassis rails. Without these being solid if you have the car upside down and remove a chassis rail you cantweak the shell around the inner wing/bulkhead join. If you area actually going to replace the full chassis rail all the way to the bumper mount you will want the car supported by other areas when removing it all. I would have it rolled to 90deg with the leg being worked on at the top (chest height) then an axle stand under the shell resting on the A post at the strongest point, and then an engine hoist with straps around the roof pillars to take the shells weight. That way the front spit upper mount is not taking any load at all. If you are just replacing the rail to the top of swan neck leaving the inner wing front rail then it can just sit on the spit with an axle stand to hold it in place/rest on A pillar such as this With a solid upper shell you can even turn the shell over on the spit with the swan neck/floor rail off and holes in the floor and front of sill (to access jacking point inner structure) so you can always weld at the correct downhill angle to get the neatest results (and check you have the fit perfect from all angles)
  8. If its the machined nose part that has gone rusty you can get it restored at a propshaft specialist. They machine it down in diameter and sleeve it with a stainless cover.
  9. i may have to pop across and have a look at that sometime as its pretty local.
  10. The Opel Record E1/E2 has a 5 linked back axle with 4 bolt hubs as standard, its a tad wider than the manta axle (think its 1" or 2" from memory) But the same axle design and takes the same diff, It doesn't have a torque tube setup just a 2 piece propshaft. You can also get a full Polybush setup from germany for the 5 links to stifen it up a bit. Not that there are many Record estates kicking around any more, well apart from the one in my back garden (and no its not for sale )
  11. I trim the bulkhead lip in the middle. It gives a lot more room for the water pipe from the head and the pipe that you will need to fit to it I trim it all the way back to the upright and weld the 2 parts together on the corner like this. Of course if you have blanked the water pipe from the head this doesn't need doing as the XE fits otherwise with no issues.
  12. The 1.8 had a 3.67 standard. 2.0 SEH will be fine with the 3.67 setup thats what i ran in mine with the same engine. You get better acceleration with a 3.67 but will be a few hundred rpm higher cruising at 70. It isn't so low that you will ever get to the rev limiter in top gear either.