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    2 last won the day on October 6 2012 had the most liked content!

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  1. I've never tried using the hole to actually 'back off' the adjustment and to be honest I'd bet you can't get to raise the adjustment arm and turn the wheel anyway .its not to my knowledge designed to be done this way. Providing the drums don't have a huge wear lip in them they should slide off the shoes.once the wheel is off a sharp crack on the edge of the drum should be enough to free them off or can usually be done through the spokes off the wheel with suitable blipping tool.knocking bar etc etc!. If they are rusted to stop the wheel turning.
  2. more than likely a bad connection inside the fog light itself.remove lens snd check 12v present when on.if no voltage the wire goes directly back to the switch.pull switch from dash and check.there should be a negative for the illumination and a wire that goes live when main lights are on.third terminal goes live when fog switch is on.straight to back of car.only front fogs when fitted go via a relay,rear is direct .
  3. Thanks for all suggestions will change ign amp and coil. Will also carry a different air box with me too.
  4. Why does it stop a car running. It doesn't on both of mine.they are both standard 2.2setups. The relay surely supplies power to the pump(term 87b) and power to injectors common(term 87) from the permanent unfused live at term starts the sequence when a live is applied to term15 and cranking to term 50 followed by a coil switching detection to term 1.and keeps this going until either it loses coil switching or looses term 15 / ignition turned off. This is what mine does or are the 2 litre versions different. I know some say the 2 litres have a 2 sec fuel prime whereas the 2.2 don't.
  5. 2p trick won't work on mine as its a 1976 cavalier. The pump is fitted with an inline fuse looped through fuse box but not no7. If it does it again I will just link 30,87 & 87b on relay base. Linking fuel pump fuse in fuse box to next fuse with a 2p other words sending 12v direct to pump avoiding any relay issues.obviously this only powers pump to prove pump works and doesn't make the injector common live too.hence why I'm going to just link the pump relay socket if it does it again
  6. Just tested every single pump relay I have and all are single contact types where 87 & 87b are permanently it appears there are no major differences between part numbers.googling 87 & 87b relays does show some types where 87 & 87b is unconnected together until relay is energised but our systems obviously don't need this feature.
  7. Hi .thanks for the suggestions. Yes I have a spare injection loom both for the engine side and the spark advance side of things. Did some more checking today.opened up the Ecu plug and examined every terminal/wire and pushed and pulled them all when running. No obvious issues at that continuity ohms to body full voltage to Ecu as well..did same to idle control Ecu also put on a brand new main Ecu,idle Ecu and a different spark advance Ecu.checked when running all terminals in pump relay plug and swapped relay as well.already done this once anyway.the car has never missed a beat since starting it the morning after and I've found not a single bad or even slightly suspect wired the ign '15' feed to the pump relay and to the ign module and coil.all new bougicord original hit leads.all I can do now is carry meter in car until it does it again and then il make sure voltages are still appearing where they should be.with pump relay removed term 30,87 & 87b make it run so il confirm that too. It's just one of those stupid annoying faults that will either never happen again or turn out to be something obvious eventually !
  8. this is why problems like this are so intension of ever selling car so fault must be found .but WHERE ? . its obviously something somewhere and i will work my way through everything until i find something or until it does it again then test for lost voltages
  9. There are a couple of different (maybe more)different part number type relays that are used .some are marked pa4and I believe some are marked pa6 with a different Bosch number. Are these only variations of the same thing or is one for a 4 cylinder and one for 6 cylinder versions. They all interchange and work either way but are there any differences..? .also do some have 87 and 87b as isolated sections or are they all from the same relay single contact ? .gonna check myself but just wondered especially after my recent episode
  10. My 76 cav fitted with 2.2 setup did a strange thing the other day. Conversion done in 2005 run fine ever since with no issues except one which I will tell you about in a minute.went out weds night.all running suddenly died so pulled up and was turning over fine but no sign of firing.poweered up fuel pump fuse and could hear pump running,tried to start still nothing.checked for spark with engine spinning ,perfect,coil centre lead to block .rotor arm and cap and leads all fine.replaced pump difference.tried a few more times.nothing.rang my mate with a towball.he came up and we tried it first and car fired up and ran perfect for all of 30seconds then stopped suddenly again.we towed car to outside my house then removed tow rope.he moved his car out of the way so we could push my car into my garden tried my car,it fired up again and drove into my garden where it stopped again and wold not the morning I came out and tried it,started up and ran perfect for 2 hours,went for a drive,perfect,been perfect ever this is a situation we all hate. There is a loose wire,connection or component somewhere that may last 1 more minute or never occur again ever!.i have checked every connection and wiggled whilst running,measured correct voltages to pump relay socket main live,term50 term 15 all live as present at 31.will be carrying my meter ,spare relay and some wire with me for a while now.going to check inside Ecu plug and make sure earth is present there with no undue resistance.i have a spare of everything including loom and am almost tempted to replace everything! !.this is one of those stupid annoying faults. Anyone have any more advice if they have ever suffered similar. Other issue which it has always done and I've never been able to get to the bottom of is this.the car will idle fine at say 600 for ages then occasionally the revs will drop to a steady and sudden 500 for approx 10 seconds and stay there all smooth.then return to 600 again for no reason.nothing switched on or off.i have tried different main Ecu,idle Ecu,icv,ignition module,coil,in advance module etc all no difference and from another know ok car.the fault even happens with the icv unplugged ! And also with the throttle switch unplugged,tried different fuel pump and relay too. It has done this since fitting in 2005 and never gives any issues but what the he'll is it ? . Could it be a pressure valve opening and closing in the auto gearbox ? ?...could these issues be related ?.thanks to all who may read this.sorry it's a long description.cheers Chris.
  11. Now I can't reply to an article in your project unless I refresh page and them save and submit answer a few times until it takes ?
  12. I remember when I took my cav for a full repainted a few years ago. I had made extra sure the wing to body gaps were all clear ,gapped good and even sprayed a base colour into them before the wings were fitted. A few days later I called in at the body shop to see how they were getting on and to my horror the guy had seam sealered over both wing gaps top and bottom and to the front valance.i made him remove it all and leave them open. He couldn't understand my thinking but did it anyway.when I got the car back I prefer to fill the gaps with windscreen sealer and then "wipe out the gaps deep".
  13. Still looking but also noticed that I cannot reply to anybody else's wanted ads without messaging them directly. Is the forum going gaga ! Don't remember this not working before as I've helped a few members out over the years with bits wanted. Cheers